What's wrong with this power steering hose routing? (besides it hits my alternator)

[derotoreut]

I'm trying to replace the pressure power steering hose on my '70 K10, but it hits the bottom of the alternator. What's wrong with the routing? I'm trying to keep this truck original. I bought the PS hose from LMC. Maybe it wasn't bent right. If anyone has pictures that show the routing I would appreciate it.

[GuyO]

I think you need to swap it end for end.

[Lattimer]

The hard line on mine has more bends in it than that and keeps it lower and behind the belts.

[derotoreut]

I don't know... Unless LMC gave me the wrong hose. There is only one part number for my '70 K10. It's p/n 32-1974 which covers 68-72 V8 4WD.

[Lattimer]

Don't know about 4x4's, I have a C-10. But my line stays lower and closer to the frame. If I were you I'd borrow a tubing bender and make it fit.

[midniteblues]

thats terrible (another horror story from lmc) its definitly not bent correctly
I would send a pic over too lmc and make a call too them and see what they have too say before trying too rebend it once you do that your screwed

[68c10airstream]

Me again, when i did a hose replacement (about 5 years ago) your hose looks like mine did before i put a 90 degree bend. The area that runs horizontal on top of the frame i put a 90 degree bend back. What that accomplished was 2 fold. It used up the extra length and lowered the loop down, and if i remember correctly it helped with getting the line to lay nicely under the the inner fender. Hey, what gear box are you using? Stock with maybe 5 turns lock to lock? If so find a newer truck (i believe 77 and newer and get a 3 1/2 turn lock to lock with VARIABLE RATIO OPTION. Look in the glove box for option labeling. I went to auto schooling in late 70's and this is my favorite box. BEST OF BOTH WORLDS, and never talked about, (atleast i haven't seen it yet). This box gives you a casual slower (normal) reacting center feel, but when you turn past 1/4 turn right and left from center it's reaction rate speeds up (quicker). The gm engineers came up with this (if i remember correctly) was when the corvettes went at a high speed the steering was too twitchy and sensitive. So again, i feel that a room full of gm engineers is pretty hard to beat. Now, 2 box styles, 2wheel drive and 4 wheel drive with a pinch bolt pitman arm, and 2 locations (inside frame and outside frame mounting). The only hassle that i know of is pressure hose issues. Newer box's use o ring sealing where your older box is flare. I you get a newer box from the junk yard get the hoses (both of them) and the screw in fitting in the back of the pump, or just get the pump. Now, in 1996 gm went to an easy steer (less road feel-more assist) and you can steer it with your little pinky, and i don't like them. Some internet info says that variable ratio is for parallel parking, BALONEY. (that was harsh, excuse me). I bring this all up now as this is the prime time to do all the change and don't look back. If anybody doubts this info, just drive a newer gm truck with all of this engineered in and then tell me this is wrong? Good luck. Brian F.

[68c10airstream]

I did forget one additional issue, is rag joint mating. Pay attention to both your original one and the newer one (get it with the box). Worst come to worst i can't think of who makes the rag joint to adapt up, but i know it's possible as i used a 1985 2wd box in my 68 factory power steering truck and i think i made one rag joint out of two, attention to details, that's all. The input spline diameter i believe got bigger on the newer boxs. Good luck and let me know. This conversion looks stock but you will know and feel the difference!

[68c10airstream]

Oh, rag joint needs to have the metal strip be installed across the front half to the back half to supply ground for your steering column otherwise your horn won't work. Boy at 57 years old this keeps the gray matter working. I loved front end work and electrical work so this project satisfies both. Rag joints have two different diameter bolts so it keeps everything indexed straight, otherwise you change rag joint, nothing indexed, and your steering wheel would possibly be upside down driving straight ahead, That god for engineers.

[Lattimer]

Originally Posted by 68c10airstream

Thank god for engineers.

As an engineer------you are one of the few people to ever say that. Mostly we get cussed at

[GCncsuHD]

Originally Posted by Lattimer

As an engineer------you are one of the few people to ever say that. Mostly we get cussed at

[68c10airstream]

I did the 5.3 in my 68 and love it. Made my own motor mount brackets, and used the 2001 motor mounts as older motor mounts had issues of separation, replacements are rock hard, and newer trucks strive to reduce noise, vibration, and harshness (NVH0. I made my factory temp gauge still read half scale because the 5.3 runs hotter, Nova tight tuck sanderson headers, Painless ecm harness with 5 extra feet and put the ecm behind my bench seat, newer variable ratio quicker gear box, 72 up 5 lug, lowered spindles only and 4" drop in the rear with antiswaybars front and back. I'm old school so bags are not me. Good luck, Brian F.

[derotoreut]

Originally Posted by 68c10airstream

Me again, when i did a hose replacement (about 5 years ago) your hose looks like mine did before i put a 90 degree bend. The area that runs horizontal on top of the frame i put a 90 degree bend back. What that accomplished was 2 fold. It used up the extra length and lowered the loop down, and if i remember correctly it helped with getting the line to lay nicely under the the inner fender. Hey, what gear box are you using? Stock with maybe 5 turns lock to lock? If so find a newer truck (i believe 77 and newer and get a 3 1/2 turn lock to lock with VARIABLE RATIO OPTION. Look in the glove box for option labeling. I went to auto schooling in late 70's and this is my favorite box. BEST OF BOTH WORLDS, and never talked about, (atleast i haven't seen it yet). This box gives you a casual slower (normal) reacting center feel, but when you turn past 1/4 turn right and left from center it's reaction rate speeds up (quicker). The gm engineers came up with this (if i remember correctly) was when the corvettes went at a high speed the steering was too twitchy and sensitive. So again, i feel that a room full of gm engineers is pretty hard to beat. Now, 2 box styles, 2wheel drive and 4 wheel drive with a pinch bolt pitman arm, and 2 locations (inside frame and outside frame mounting). The only hassle that i know of is pressure hose issues. Newer box's use o ring sealing where your older box is flare. I you get a newer box from the junk yard get the hoses (both of them) and the screw in fitting in the back of the pump, or just get the pump. Now, in 1996 gm went to an easy steer (less road feel-more assist) and you can steer it with your little pinky, and i don't like them. Some internet info says that variable ratio is for parallel parking, BALONEY. (that was harsh, excuse me). I bring this all up now as this is the prime time to do all the change and don't look back. If anybody doubts this info, just drive a newer gm truck with all of this engineered in and then tell me this is wrong? Good luck. Brian F.

Hey this is great information to know. I am trying to keep this truck as original as possible, so I probably won't do that steering box change. Now my '69 C20 is a different story. That one is anything but stock, so you never know. As far as the pressure hose is concerned, I wish I could see how other stock PS hoses are routed so I know how it should have been. Thanks.

[54belair]

On my truck,, when the new engine goes in--everything on it will be new-----that brought on the power steering issue.

I started to order one from LMC but decided to go to oriellys and order a new one there so I could compare. Good thought! The 71-72 hose (as well as the one listed for 69-70 looked nothing like the one I had (one that I had--that I knew worked!)
An astute counter man at oriellys said the one I had looked like a "generic" GM hose that he was familiar with. He went to the back and brought one up that was an exact match to what I had. I asked what it fit---his answer was Maaany gm v8's. One that he called up was for a 73 blazer.
So, rather than take a chance on going back with what was "supposed" to work, I decided to go with what I knew worked. (mine had several more bends in it also.)

[MidLifer]

One thing you might try is to take a cable tie and wrap it around the hose and the brake line under it. Just tighten it enough to pull the hose down away from the belt. I bought a hose from Napa that looks kind of like yours, it doesnt hit the belt but it was close to the header and I did the cable tie thing and it works.
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[sasquatch58]

looks like you have it on backwards...switch the two ends around

[54belair]

Good luck with contacting LMC. I did that with a lower ball joint issue---Theirs was too small---I contacted them about the issue---they looked at my "profile" and decided the answer to the problem was----I ordered the wrong part!! I argued, sent pictures and waited for their "investigation"------4 months later,, they must still be investigating a ball joint that was physically too small!!
Youd be much quicker handling the issue your self!

[FirstOwner69]

Rock Auto shows the same hose for the K10 as the C10. However, I'm not sure if this is correct. They also have pictures of the actual parts. If they are the same, I have some close shots of mine on my 69 without the inner and outer fender. I can post them if you'd like.

Jim

[WB72]

Originally Posted by 68c10airstream

Me again, when i did a hose replacement (about 5 years ago) your hose looks like mine did before i put a 90 degree bend. The area that runs horizontal on top of the frame i put a 90 degree bend back. What that accomplished was 2 fold. It used up the extra length and lowered the loop down, and if i remember correctly it helped with getting the line to lay nicely under the the inner fender. Hey, what gear box are you using? Stock with maybe 5 turns lock to lock? If so find a newer truck (i believe 77 and newer and get a 3 1/2 turn lock to lock with VARIABLE RATIO OPTION. Look in the glove box for option labeling. I went to auto schooling in late 70's and this is my favorite box. BEST OF BOTH WORLDS, and never talked about, (atleast i haven't seen it yet). This box gives you a casual slower (normal) reacting center feel, but when you turn past 1/4 turn right and left from center it's reaction rate speeds up (quicker). The gm engineers came up with this (if i remember correctly) was when the corvettes went at a high speed the steering was too twitchy and sensitive. So again, i feel that a room full of gm engineers is pretty hard to beat. Now, 2 box styles, 2wheel drive and 4 wheel drive with a pinch bolt pitman arm, and 2 locations (inside frame and outside frame mounting). The only hassle that i know of is pressure hose issues. Newer box's use o ring sealing where your older box is flare. I you get a newer box from the junk yard get the hoses (both of them) and the screw in fitting in the back of the pump, or just get the pump. Now, in 1996 gm went to an easy steer (less road feel-more assist) and you can steer it with your little pinky, and i don't like them. Some internet info says that variable ratio is for parallel parking, BALONEY. (that was harsh, excuse me). I bring this all up now as this is the prime time to do all the change and don't look back. If anybody doubts this info, just drive a newer gm truck with all of this engineered in and then tell me this is wrong? Good luck. Brian F.

Great info, I'll start looking around here for a donor box.
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[derotoreut]

Originally Posted by FirstOwner69

Rock Auto shows the same hose for the K10 as the C10. However, I'm not sure if this is correct. They also have pictures of the actual parts. If they are the same, I have some close shots of mine on my 69 without the inner and outer fender. I can post them if you'd like.

Jim

What's interesting is that LMC lists different PN's for 4WD and 2WD. I figured there must be a difference, so I ordered the one for my K10, which was part 32-1974.
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cb/full.aspx?Page=128

I have been looking for any pictures, but so far no one has given me any. Please do! You can either post or email me. I know you have my email from before. Thanks.

[Leonard1]

Here's the one on my '69 2wd, it's originally from a '76, though.

[FirstOwner69]

Originally Posted by derotoreut

What's interesting is that LMC lists different PN's for 4WD and 2WD. I figured there must be a difference, so I ordered the one for my K10, which was part 32-1974.
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cb/full.aspx?Page=128

I have been looking for any pictures, but so far no one has given me any. Please do! You can either post or email me. I know you have my email from before. Thanks.

Oops... sorry Dan.

Here's a picture of the new hose I put on my 69 3/4 ton 2WD. Looks exactly like the original. I still have the original in the second picture. I can mail it to you if you want to try it to see if it'll work. I think I also have an extra clamp that holds the 2 lines to the top of the frame if you want it.

Edit: I added the 3rd picture showing the original installation when I started my disassembly.

[derotoreut]

Originally Posted by FirstOwner69

Oops... sorry Dan.

Here's a picture of the new hose I put on my 69 3/4 ton 2WD. Looks exactly like the original. I still have the original in the second picture. I can mail it to you if you want to try it to see if it'll work. I think I also have an extra clamp that holds the 2 lines to the top of the frame if you want it.

Edit: I added the 3rd picture showing the original installation when I started my disassembly.

Jim - Your pressure hose is definitely different than mine. The third picture almost looks like it goes up similar to mine. I would be interested in trying your old pressure hose if you're not using it. I also do not have the hose clamp used to clamp both hoses together on the frame. I will follow up with you by email.