New motor won't crank, don't know what else to do

[UATahoe]

Well, I got the fuel leak issue fixed but the new motor just won't fire off. Getting plenty of fuel so I know that's not the problem. No leaks. Thought i might have goofed up the timing somehow maybe? I took the distributor cap off and removed the number 1 spark plug and then rotated the crank pulley clockwise until it blew a piece of paper out of the number one plug hole. Reinstalled the distributor cap and spark plug wires. Still nothing. Just spins and spins but never fires off. Not sure where to go from here. Attached a picture of the starter. I don't think it is spaced properly. Bought a pack of shims and used all 3. The pinion gear in the picture actually appeared to be stuck in the flywheel as it remained there after we turned the truck off. Actually had to push it out of the flywheel with a screwdriver. Appreciate any and all opinions.
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[88Jimmy4x4]

Is your ignition wire attached to distributer?

You getting spark to plugs?
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[Rufton]

I don't know correct method but I would put gear marking compound or lithium grease on stater gear and look at contact pattern; rear end ping and pinion style. I'd also look for shinny area at tooth crown.

Did you try starting fluid?

[Sodell]

So you are sure you are getting fuel? Next thing would be spark. Take out a plug and hold it onto a ground, have some one turn it over and see if thee is any spark.

[UATahoe]

Not really sure if its getting spark or not. I am thinking its not. At least that would make sense. I hooked all of the distributor plugs and ignition control module plugs up. On The ignition control module plugs, the clip that catches and holds them down broke off but they still slide on and seem fine.
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[UATahoe]

Not sure I follow. "take out a plug and hold it onto a ground?"
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[Sodell]

Check for spark, then we can go from there.

[UATahoe]

Gotcha. Just take the plug out, set it aside and try to look in to see spark when it turns over.
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[Rufton]

They have cheapo spark testers at parts store. I just unplug a high tension plug wire and hold it close to plug or ground. There is a shock risk if not careful.

[UATahoe]

Ok. I am basically taking the plug out with the plug wire still attached and just grounding it to the frame. Then turning over and checking to make sure the plug is providing spark? I am guessing I just need to be touch the spark plug threads to the frame right and hold it there by the spark plug boot?
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[Sodell]

Yep, make sure the tip of the plug is grounded. You can hold it with a pair of pliers with rubber handles.

[UATahoe]

Tip as in the ground electrode right? If i didn't gap that right could that be the problem?
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[Sodell]

Shims will only move the starter farther from the fly wheel, you may have it too close now. Was this the same setup as before, or is the engine completely new?

[Sodell]

The gap won't matter at this point you will still be able to see the spark if you ground it.

[UATahoe]

Completely new motor. To me it looks like the starter is still too close. I was thinking I may need to shim it more to get it a little further away.
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[Sodell]

Just touch the metal tip where it is bent to a metal ground while cranking motor, if you have spark you will see it as the motor cranks.

[UATahoe]

Roger that. I will give it a shot.
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[Sodell]

this is a small engine but same concept--

How to check for Spark Plug Fire (in any engine)...

[Rufton]

You can still get shocked w/ rubber handle pliers; ask how I know
May help if keep your body away from car ground.

[UATahoe]

Just checked. I just stood it up on the frame and it stayed there by itself. Lol. I didn't want to experience that voltage. Important part, it did spark so that isn't the problem.
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[Rufton]

Did rotor point to #1 high tension dist cap plug terminal when you turned crank to about 6 degrees before TDC #1 compression stroke?

[UATahoe]

I know I didn't get it that precise. Once the air came out of the number 1 cylinder I stopped turning the crankshaft. Reinstalled the rotor cap and watched which post the needle was pointing at when I slippe the cap on. Use that as the number 1 cylinder plugged in the number one plug wire and proceeded with the rest in the firing order. I will say though that the red tick on the balancer wasnt anywhere to be seen.
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[Rufton]

#1 piston must be very close to top of stroke (TDC). If finger in #1 hole rotate crank till air stops coming out. The timing marks should be nearly lined up. The dist rotor must point to #1 plug terminal at a few degrees before TDC (per timing pointer).

[UATahoe]

Ok. So rotate till I feel air come out, when I do the red timing mark on the balancer should be relatively close to the pointer right? So wait till I feel air, then continue to turn very slightly until timing marks line up? I know on some rotations I will feel air but the timing mark is nowhere near. I am guessing its still tdc but the opposite turn? I was really questioning myself and it was hard for me to say if it was sucking air in or pushing out.

I should note, when I felt the air come out, I put the rotor cap back on and just eyeballed it to see which post it looked like the rotor was pointing at. Do I need to adjust the distributor at all, meaning make sure I have it pointing directly at a post or slightly before?

Standing in front of the truck looking down on the distributor, I am assuming turning the distributor clockwise advances timing. Is that right or do I have it backwards?
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[UATahoe]

And just to be sure, it's ok to just put a ratchet on the main crank pulley bolt and turn right? I am just using a ratchet with a cheater bar on it and a 5/8 socket for the bolt. It is really tough to turn but it slowly works it around.
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