Restoring stock steering wheel

[daveboy]

My '52 Chevy half-ton's steering wheel has the normal cracks in it that would be expected in a 61 year old wheel. I see kits on the market to restore it. My question is: What is the need for a kit? Would body filler not fill the cracks sufficiently and then shoot it with paint? Or, do the kits come with some special, hi-tech, do-everything filler for those cracks? My wheel is in really good condition except for the minor, unsightly cracks. What do ya'll recommend?

Thanks,
daveboy

[Dodger]

I'm not sure what is in these "kits" but I for me it's just:

Dremel to open up the cracks or "V" them out.

Epoxy putty.

Sandpaper

Paint

There are some good youtube vids and a few threads here if you do a search on steering wheel repair.
Posted via Mobile Device

[OrrieG]

JB Weld or another two part epoxy filler. Dremel out the cracks so there is a bell in the bottom, just like dentists do. sand smooth, get the crud off the rest of the wheel, scuff then paint. Some use rattle can and get good results, others, like me, used a gun shot primer for plastic and vinyl then regular primer, bc/cc. There are some good threads over at HAMB and in some builds here.

[Highsider]

You da man, Orrie!

[parkwood]

Orrie you crack us up...

[_Ogre]

actually... orrieg un-cracked us
the only thing i would add is to resize the wheel at the same time

[Russell Ashley]

One of the things that Eastwood sells for steering wheel repair is PC-7 epoxy. You can get it at most any Ace Hardware store for about half of Eastwood price. It comes in two cans and you mix equal parts.

[OrrieG]

I have never seen in person or used PC-7 but from what I have seen on line it looks like it works and is similar to JB weld.

[Dan in Pasadena]

I used JBWeld and its held up fine. Tried the JB "roll" you slice a chunk off and knead into one color - I didn't like it at all. Also tried JB Quik Weld, also didn't like.
For me, it's original JB or nothing.

BEFORE:


V'ed out Cracks w/ Dremel:


Used tape as a "form" some places:


Sanded & (rattle can) Painted:

[_Ogre]

looks good dan

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks. I did that a year ago.

It was a quicky paint job though so I'm thinking about a nice re-sand with wet or dry and a BETTER rattle can job! lol.

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

I used JBWeld and its held up fine. Tried the JB "roll" you slice a chunk off and knead into one color - I didn't like it at all. Also tried JB Quik Weld, also didn't like.
For me, it's original JB or nothing.

BEFORE:


V'ed out Cracks w/ Dremel:


Used tape as a "form" some places:


Sanded & (rattle can) Painted:

Looks good Dan, I may give it a try when I get that far But swap in a smaller hoop. We shall see.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by mknittle

....I may give it a try when I get that far But swap in a smaller hoop. We shall see.

I will definitely do that OR use a '55 Belair wheel in a small diameter, IF I ever get power steering. I recently bought a "necker knob" but haven't installed it yet.

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

I recently bought a "necker knob" but haven't installed it yet.

I hate those things! I almost went over a bank in a dump truck because of one.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Why? Did it break?

[mknittle]

It slipped out of my hand started spinning back to center and nearly broke my elbow.
The problem is there is a lot of curvy roads here and if your hand isn't on the knob the knob is in the way. I think they are illegal in California any way.

It might be OK around town but Having your hand on it or avoiding it gets old try it and see what you think some people like them

[OrrieG]

Back in the day a lot of guys got broken thumbs from them.

[Zach B]

Epoxy sand paper and paint is what I have always used.
Posted via Mobile Device

[FatFenderGarage]

Forget restoring them unless you have 15 hours of your life you don't mind wasting. And if you don't mind the cracks reappearing later. I've tried everything form POR15 to Eastwoods products and they all fail over time in my experience. Just buy one instead.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by FatFenderGarage

....Just buy one instead.

Riiight....IF you have a spare $200 cause you won't find a used one that DOESN'T have cracks.

I don't think the cracks HAVE to recur. First, keep your damn weight off the wheel; don't lean/lay on it....for decades. Second, excellent prep with lots of "tooth" Put the epoxy in lifts or layers, not all at once. Third, let it cure THOROUGHLY before painting. Last? Cross your fingers

[FatFenderGarage]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Riiight....IF you have a spare $200 cause you won't find a used one that DOESN'T have cracks.

I don't think the cracks HAVE to recur. First, keep your damn weight off the wheel; don't lean/lay on it....for decades. Second, excellent prep with lots of "tooth" Put the epoxy in lifts or layers, not all at once. Third, let it cure THOROUGHLY before painting. Last? Cross your fingers

Yes.... Spend the 200. I've done 4 wheels and felt it wasn't worth the time. But, that's just my opinion. I've got a restoration shop and we only fix the ones we have to.
Posted via Mobile Device

[DransportGarage]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Thanks. I did that a year ago.

It was a quicky paint job though so I'm thinking about a nice re-sand with wet or dry and a BETTER rattle can job! lol.

Nice job on the pics and technique Dan. X2 on the JB Weld. Have used it several times for steering wheels.