Recently acquired 1971 Chevy K10 in Maine!

[Matthewg321]

About a month ago I acquired this 1971 K10 (emblems say C/10-Custom) from a friend's family.

I was told that the engine was seized and/or it had transmission problems. I paid the owner and popped the hood with my tools in hand.

my first objective: spin the engine by hand :success.

second objective: turn the flywheel by hand: success!


after an hour of tinkering and the ungodly sheer grind of a starter engaging a flywheel with great resistance (once or twice), I bumped the starter motor with my elbow and felt it budge. low and behold, the starter motor had worked its bolts out and wasn't engaging the flywheel enough to turn the motor.

Ten minutes later, I drove it from the barn to the house :0)

This baby's had a restoration once in her life. I feel it was a soft one, (paint, rockers, corners, tires, etc) since the engine looks original and the interior of the motor bay hasn't been repainted.

Her last trip was from ME-GA-ME, to collect a VW bug and two engines which had been stranded in Athens. in GA she had brake drums, shoes, calipers, rotors, pads, lines, booster, cylinders, wheel bearings and fluids installed ($1150 with receipts). brand new BFG tires before departing Maine.

I have a couple of questions regarding the mechanics of this truck, since its my first antique, not to mention first real 4x4.

It seems to be that when I turn to the LEFT under power (not coasting) I can feel a shudder in the wheel and it feels as if A). the 4x4 is locked and the tires are hitching on the pavement, B), there is a wheel bearing which is foul, or C), there is play in the steering.

also, I have new plug wires and plugs I'd like to install, but the distributor is under the cowl/back of the motor, and I cannot get the plug wires free.

Thoughts?

[Avitech]

Nice rig! Maybe disconnect the distributor cap and pull it and the wires to an open area? Also, welcome from New Hampshire!

[72swbcamo]

If you trying to weigh you truck you need to put the scale under it not in it.

[hopped up]

nice truck!! did that scale cone with it?
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[rsavage]

Welcome and congrats.
Your K10 would have been badged a C10 from the factory. I can't really tell from the photos if you have lock out hubs. Check to make sure they are in the free position. As you describe it crabbing when turning on dry pavement, it appears you are in 4 WD. Check the hubs and the transfer case selector to make sure it is in 2WD hi. Factory wires run down the back of the block. There are some clips on the oil pan that hold wires for 1,3,2,and 4 cylinders. Jack it up, pull the wheels off, and get ready to slide in and out from the underneath to put new wires on in the factory positions. Points and condenser are always a challenge on a 4X$ as you are usually working from the top of the engine and it sits back 3" further that a 2WD truck. I find it easier to put the engine on TDC and pull the distributor out, replace the points and condenser on the bench, gap the points, and then put the distributor back in. Be sure to check the vacuum advance on the distributor to insure it is working. Set the dwell once fired up with a dwell meter, and then set timing with the vacuum advance line disconnected and plugged and the truck idling at about 650 rpms or so.

[Matthewg321]

Originally Posted by rsavage

Welcome and congrats.
Your K10 would have been badged a C10 from the factory. I can't really tell from the photos if you have lock out hubs. Check to make sure they are in the free position. As you describe it crabbing when turning on dry pavement, it appears you are in 4 WD. Check the hubs and the transfer case selector to make sure it is in 2WD hi. Factory wires run down the back of the block. There are some clips on the oil pan that hold wires for 1,3,2,and 4 cylinders. Jack it up, pull the wheels off, and get ready to slide in and out from the underneath to put new wires on in the factory positions. Points and condenser are always a challenge on a 4X$ as you are usually working from the top of the engine and it sits back 3" further that a 2WD truck. I find it easier to put the engine on TDC and pull the distributor out, replace the points and condenser on the bench, gap the points, and then put the distributor back in. Be sure to check the vacuum advance on the distributor to insure it is working. Set the dwell once fired up with a dwell meter, and then set timing with the vacuum advance line disconnected and plugged and the truck idling at about 650 rpms or so.

See, I'm not in 4x4 hi or lo, and the hubs are surely in the unlocked position. I've driven jeeps and test driven tacomas on pavement, and the sound/feeling is certainly not like the "crabbing" of locked axles slipping on asphalt.

it ONLY Happens when I accelerate and am 50% to 100% turned to the left!

[toms68cst]

The right photo is Commercial Street in Portland???

Looks like a really solid truck for Maine!

[Matthewg321]

Originally Posted by toms68cst

The right photo is Commercial Street in Portland???

Looks like a really solid truck for Maine!

Absolutely correct! Union Wharf!