My build thread- 67 C10 SWB

[checkmate211e]

I have been encouraged to start a build thread for my current build which I bought in June 2011 for $1,000. Projects completed so far is:

complete floor pan replacement
smooth firewall
inner cowl replaced
vent doors shaved
replaced rusted metal around back window
c-notched frame
gas tank relocated to behind rear
battery relocated to under truck (hopefully I will have enough clearance)
CPP tubular trailing arms
CPP tubular control arms
Wilwood front disc brake conversion
CPP rear disc brake conversion
converted truck from 6x5.5" to 5x5" lug pattern
Foose Chrome Legend wheels, 17x8 front, 18x9 rear
built SBC 350 bored .40" over, Sportsman 2 heads, Lunati 268 cam
93 Caprice700r4 rebuilt locally using Monster Transmission SS Mega Monster in a Box
dropped front suspension 4.5" (2.5" spindles and 2" springs)
dropped rear suspension 5.5" rear (4" springs and 1.5" blocks)
Posi 3.73 rear
60 Bel Air dash (in progress)
97 GMC Safari serpentine drive (in progress)
hydroboost power brake booster (in progress)

[checkmate211e]

More pics, should name this project "Tetanus Shot"

[checkmate211e]

Cab work begins:

First step was to build a cab dolly to move it around a little easier in the garage. Then my dad and I built a cab hanger to suspend the cab to cut out the old floor. Also don't forget to put braces on the doors to keep the door openings from distorting.

[jhama78]

Subscribed!

[Molberg]

Originally Posted by checkmate211e

More pics, should name this project "Tetanus Shot"

I like it... You're doin it right! Will be watchin for more pics. Good work.

[checkmate211e]

Floor install begins. I had to fabricate the approximately 3" up along the full width of the cab, where the floor meets the firewall due to rust. Also, the replacement panel does not fit perfectly, some metal fabrication will be required. I used a sheetmetal brake and shrinker/stretcher to get this done. This was my first venture into welding and metal fabrication. I highly recommend copper backing tools and clamps when welding sheetmetal to avoid burnthrough. http://www.eastwood.com/butt-weld-cl...ckers-kit.html

[checkmate211e]

Thanks Molberg!

I know the welding looks very amateur, I'm a student of the University of Hard Knocks.

[checkmate211e]

Slowly closing up the holes. Now its time to put it back on the dolly and see if the welds hold up.....

I'm tired of banging my head on the cab hanger!

Next I decided to replace the cowl because it was a major rust prone area. Closing up the vents because I see this as a source for water to get into the cab. It becomes a leaf and moisture trap.

[checkmate211e]

New cowl panel is ready to go on. Then its time to shave the firewall.

OPPS! a peek at the 60 Bel Air dash. it was the best pick I have so far of the smooth fire wall and inner cowl

[67chevy1]

your doing an excellent job on it. keep it up!!! I'm only guessing but it doesn't look like this is your first rodeo. I will be paying very close attention as I have the same project ahead of me, and it will be my first 1.

[checkmate211e]

Originally Posted by 67chevy1

your doing an excellent job on it. keep it up!!! I'm only guessing but it doesn't look like this is your first rodeo. I will be paying very close attention as I have the same project ahead of me, and it will be my first 1.

I bought a 71 after I got out of the Navy (2004), but gave up on it because it needed a lot more than I was capable of doing at the time. Honest, this is my first real rodeo. Thanks for the compliment! This board is great for first timers like ourselves, most of us are here to help

[67chevy1]

The 1 and only thing that you have done on it that I wont be doing is the gas tank relocation, or if I do I will cut the neck of the gas tank off and leave it stick out of the cab somehow because for some reason that is half of the mystique of these trucks for me. There's just something about that chrome gas cap sticking out of the cab that I really love.

[checkmate211e]

Time to move onto the back window metal work. As most window channels are, mine was starting to pit and pinholes were beginning to surface. I bought 2 pieces of angle iron (3"x3"x36"L), placed them back to back, and drilled 3 bolt holes to give the 3/8" step (I believe that's what the step is on the back window channels) needed. Once you have the jig made, insert a piece of 90 degree bent sheetmetal (1"x1"x30"L 19 gauge), and using a piece of flat bar and some vise grips locking the piece down, hammer flat the piece standing up. SHAZAM! You now have the step needed for the window channel. I used to have a pic of this jig, and can take one and post it for anyone that wants to see. I will cover how I achieved the curve in the top of the rear window channel later.

[67chevy1]

Yes post any and all info would defenately be appreciated and more pics the better.

[checkmate211e]

I agree about the gas filler neck. I didn't show the pic, but I did shave the filler neck hole because I saw it as another source of water getting into the cab. Maybe the thing to do (because I don't want a potential bomb as a passenger inside my cab) is to cut the neck off the tank and weld it into the spot where the filler neck would normally be. I never thought about that before! . Tools I would recommend for the window channels are:

Steck copper backed welding pliers
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...5196_200335196

spot weld cutter
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eig...ter-95343.html

Punch and Flange tool
http://www.tptools.com/TP-Tools-ProL...tml?b=s*flange

1"x1"x30" 90 degree 19 gauge zinc electrocoated sheetmetal
http://www.tptools.com/Shrinker-and-...html?b=d*12559

[-T-]

Cool build Any pics of its current state? I'm tackeling my first paint and body work on my 70. I had a solid truck to start with just needing rockers and some outer floor repair. The body work is much more indepth though. Good luck with it and keep us posted.

[checkmate211e]

Sure T, ask and you shall receive. I am still currently in build mode but this pretty much how it sits

[-T-]

thanks, looking good

[checkmate211e]

Originally Posted by -T-

thanks, looking good

Thanks! Here is a older pic of the cab on the frame. The front sway bar is now bolted up into the brackets, so its no longer hanging down

[jhama78]

Whereabout in Delmar do ya live? Do you have any of the stock parts still laying around? Definitely gonna have to get up your way and check this thing out sometime.

--j-rod

[checkmate211e]

I don't really have many stock parts because they weren't worth keeping. What I was able to salvage, has been sold on craigslist or sold as scrap steel. Send me a message if you need any parts, I will see what I can find. Maybe a couple of original gas tanks, (1) sliding back glass, some V-belt accessory drive parts and pulleys.

[checkmate211e]

Another mod I decided to do was to shave the water channel on the cab where the firewall and kick panels meet. I saw this as one of the major reasons our rocker panels are so prone to rust (along with the rubber plug falling out). Now water will run straight down instead of being funneled right into the rocker. Once the reinforcing metal was welded in on the inside, the water channel was shaved and welded smooth.

[trkfrk]

Nice work on the cab!

[checkmate211e]

Thanks trkfrk. Next I will cover stripping down the frame. Disassembly would have been impossible without a torch, most of these bolts had never been touched since 1967. We built some sturdy saw horses out of the wood left over from the cab hanger. The saw horses were great for knocking out some of those pesky frame rivets. Plans were to install a CPP dropmember kit, CPP tubular control arms, and drop suspension.

My advice when knocking out frame rivets is to grind the head off one side of the rivet completely flush. Using a hand sledge, heavy punch with a vise grip clamped on for a handle, and wail away. After the rivet is knocked out, tighten a nut and bolt in place to avoid damage to the frame rails.

[checkmate211e]

Here is a pic of my cab puller: placed a trailer hitch ball into the end of my engine crane. Made a 2"x6" box, screwed a middle brace and drilled a hole large enough for the trailer hitch ball to insert. Now I can swivel the cab on the ball and make fine adjustments as needed.