power steering add on?

[pkj]

thinking about adding power steering to my 68 c10. are any kits on the market for this? i dont want to chance a bunch of used leaking parts. not something i have to have, but would be nice. thanks, pkj

[Aarons72s]

Well if I were you i would just get a used set up from the junk yard. And if you are woried about the parts leaking just go to the parts store for remaned unit. That way you get essentially new parts but get the correct brackets and have cores for the rebuilt parts. This is the cheapest way to get a reliable steering setup.
Aaron

[ETsC10]

Been there, done that--if I recall, I had to remove a bumper brace and do some shimming...worked well though; even with all used parts. Awsome upgrade! Aaron's got a good point. Once you have everything lined up you can always replace it with new. Get all from a like-truck with ALL of the pullies and brackets...you can spend forever getting the right belt, lining them up, etc,etc

[Aarons72s]

Here is a trick for the right belt. Get one of those adjustable temp belts. install it then remove it and take it to the pasrts store to find a suitable length one.
Aaron

[shifty]

I can help ya there. I don't agree with buying used parts myself. Steering is a big deal - your life depends on it. Is it worth saving $80? My life is worth more than that (and you never know how much life is left in a used part).

http://www.satellitehead.com/gallery...s.php?album=10

This is my '68, I took pics while tearing down the steering and building it back up. I will impart this knowledge on you.

Notice the vertical "divot" in the frame in this picture between the four bolt holes: http://www.satellitehead.com/images/...teering004.jpg

If your '68 came with the correct frame, it should have that divot. The '67 didn't - that divot is a provision for power steering gearbox.

The driver side bumper brace for manual and power steering is different. You can just use the manual steering one and grind a divot in it to make it fit again using an angle grinder or bench grinder. It's easiest to remove this brace while working on this swap. Bumper removal is not necessary.

When you're ready, here is a list of parts you will need to put new tie rods, idler arm, pitman arm (power uses diff't one than manual!). The are Moog part numbers (Moog is also "Federal Mogul" or "TRW" brand now, after the buyout). Any parts store can cross-reference these for you:



Here's what you need:

-- Mandatory --
(1) Power steering gearbox
(1) Power steering Pitman arm
(1) Idler arm (this goes on passenger side)
(1) Rag joint (found in the 'Help' section of local auto parts store).

(you will also need the fluid resevoir, the correct pulley, and any brackets to fit your engine. might be able to buy all three as a kit from summitracing.com or a similar website! you will also need your hydraulic hose lines, more info at end of this post)

-- Optional --
(2) Tie rod sleeves (adjusting sleeves)
(2) outer tie rods (1 left and 1 right)
(2) innner tie rods (1 left and 1 right)

If you're smart, you will get a "tie rod separator" and a "pitman arm puller" from the store for ~$10/each at most local auto parts stores if rebuilding all the steering, which is worthwhile if you're down there tearing sh*t apart already. These tools are in the 'Help' section, I think --- Ask if you need to. Both are essentially going to keep you from spending 6 hours taking off the tie rods and the pitman arm.

Buy the gearbox reman'd from auto part store, aroung $160? I forget...The rest of the parts are no more than $140 for everything else in that list, if memory serves correct. I bought all mine from Advance Auto parts.


The process:

Buying a service manual is a godsend here and will help you better than my instructions will. I will give some pics they won't, though.

Straighten your wheels out so your idler arm and pitman arm will theoretically be parallel to one another. If you are swapping tie rods also, make a visual note of how many threads are seen on either end of your existing tie rod sleeves (for both sides - 4 numbers total!!). I hear it's important to jot this down to get the best possible alignment after re-install. Also, make a visual note of the position of the pitman arm directionally and the idler arm.

Look at the pictures in the first link above. It's been a while, but here is the explanation.

First, take the nut off that is holding the manual steering pitman arm to the bottom of the gearbox. Use the gear puller. Save the nut!! Remove the pitman arm. Toss it, if you want. It's easiest to pull this bastard now than to wait for later. Go to the other side and repeat this process with the idler arm. Remove both items from the center link (the long bar from wheel to wheel or tie rod to tie rod).

Three bolts to remove inside the framerail to get the manual gearbox off. I would loosen up the two bolts holding the steering column rag joint to the gearbox if I were you. Save them, just in case. In fact, save all your nuts and bolts just for S&G if nothing else.

Remove the manual gearbox (three things hold it in: rag joint to column, pitman arm, bolts to frame).

If you are not replacing the tie rods, just skip the section in italics here:
Make a note or take a picture of the center link position (which way it points) for later reference. Unbolt your tie rods from the center link. Unbolt the other end of the tie rod from the spindle/knuckle area your drum or disc is attached to. Pull both tie rods off and eject to the side.

Screw both of your new tie rods (1 inner, 1 outer for each side) together with a sleeve. Adjust the sleeve to the same threads and distance from point to point as the two you just removed and replace. Tighten loosely to the knuckle and the center link, which will now be reinstalled.


Now, on to the nitty gritty.

Bolt the power steering gearbox back up. The steering column will collapse a bit if needed, there is a plastic pin or two in the middle of the shaft it that can be punched or drilled out, this will let the shaft reduce in size (it's usually siezed up though from time and rust), it might need to be beaten in a bit - safety feature, in case you get in a wreck, it collapses. Bolt the rag joint up to join the column and gearbox.

Install the pitman arm. Just a note!! This confused the crap out of me (I'm an idiot). The pitman arm DOES NOT screw down all the way. Here is a super high-resolution closeup picture of how much mine screwed on (the gear is tapered!):

http://satellitehead.com/uploads/pitman01.jpg

Notice there is only like ~1 thread there on the other side of the nut. A lot of the old-timers here SWEAR by putting anti-sieze on this joker for future ease of removal. I didn't, and I am sure I will regret it.

Once this is back on, you should be ready to check and make sure the center link is in place and aligned (equal distance from the crossmember on pass side and driver side), and you can start tightening crap down again. When all is secure, don't forget to put your cotter pins through the castle nuts on everything, where applicable.

Before you get all gung ho, you will need to install your power steering lines, fill up with your fluid, get your brackets and belts in place...then, and this is IMPORTANT, follow the instructions that came with your power steering gerabox on how to fill, prime and flush your gearbox. It's supposed to be pretty easy to waste a power steering setup by not doing this properly. The general process is like ... fill with fluid, jack up the front end, start the vehicle, turn wheel from lock to lock, then fill, turn lock to lock again, then flush and repeat. I haven't done this yet because my engine is about 2% of the way from being service-ready.

I think that's about it. I am sure I missed a step, which is why a manual is pretty important. I might not have told you the "right" way either, but it's more than what anyone around here gave me when I was doing mine!!

Be sure to have the truck realigned afterwards.

OH - don't forget to buy power steering lines also! GMCPauls sells them on the cheap www.GMCPauls.com (so do other board vendors, but these guys are close to us and nice to deal with) - great to deal with to boot. You need the high pressure line and the return line, they will cost around $40 shipped for the pair? I think. Shop that out first. None of the local auto parts stores sell the damned return line, they just sell a rubber hose. It's a joke.

Good luck.

[pkj]

WOW, SHIFTY WAY TO GO. i am floored with all the info you supplied. thanks much. this should be posted over in F&Q or whatever it is. very very good info. pkj

[shifty]

Thanks

I actually edited it today to add some info about the power steering gearbox. It's important you read the instructions and follow them, or you can trash the box.

Good luck with this. I was amazed (as with so many other things on this vehicle) at how simple this actually was. The worst part for me was trying to reattach the column to the gearbox, and making sure the pitman arm was on-center (the gearbox was not shipped with it "at center" so you gotta kinda play with it to figure out where center is and run with it).

[Hart_Rod]

Shifty - I think that should be in the FAQ Hall of Fame! Nice job. BTW, how's the truck coming? I'm finishing up my metal repair and should start on my engine install soon.

[action]

Nice info. But what is the steering box from-68-72 truck? or a newer truck or are they the same.
Thanks Jack

[krue]

Shifty post that in FAQ!

[shifty]

krue, copy that to the FAQ

(vB will let you copy a single post to another forum, normally you click the checkbox in the top right to select that post, then use the "Moderation" dropdown at the bottom right to "copy posts" and move the post you selected elsewhere.)

Rod: the truck ... I got the water pump drilled and tapped today for my steam line off the heads. Pics of that process are here (may not show up lest you're a member there): http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showpo...5&postcount=49 ... I worked on the truck instead of going to Moultrie car show and swap meet, got some of the steering parts ordered, and dorked around with some intake wiring. Not a very productive day. Oh yeah, I will probably get a new petcock for the radiator and install that later this eve.

Action: Anything from 68-72 is the same box. Honestly, I don't trust aftermarket parts, and I wasn't going to cobble something together off a junker to be used on a truck this nice, so I bought a crappy one from the junkyard (cheap) and used it as a core to get a remanufactured one from the store. Most of the other guys I know did the same OR went to Summit Racing and got one of the "AGR" brand boxes they have there. I think I actually asked the clerk behind the counter specifically for a power steering gearbox on a 1968 pickup.

[jimmydean]

I pulled my box off a '75. I bought a '75 parts truck for the motor and pulled the box with it. I did have to notch the bumper bracket, but that wasn't a huge deal. The pump was attached to the motor, so that part was easy.

[action]

Thanks all,
I have a couple parts trucks so I am going to use 1 of the boxes for a core, Just wanted to get the right box.
Jack

[shifty]

Flaming River also makes power steering gearboxes apparently, I found this out over the weekend. I think they have ratios of 12:1, 14:1 and 16:1. The higher the ratio, the less you gotta turn the wheel to go lock-to-lock, IIRC.

[krue]

I know how to do it that way, but I was trying to be lazy. Remind me to move the thread when everyone has seen it.

[shifty]

I just created a FAQ page No worries on the move. Keep it in both places (I marked it up a little to add info over there)

[krue]

That's what I wanted, streamlined, so to speak. Thanks.

[sambudo]

Gr8 info thanks.