Best lowering suspension advice NEEDED

[Propureplaya]

So I am new to the forum and have started to restore a 1981 c10 shortbed. I already did a quick drop to the truck by cutting a full coil out of the front spring and a different bracket in the rear.

What I would like to know:

1.What is the lowest static drop that I can accomplish without tubbing out the front or rear? Keep in mind that I would like to run a 10" rear rim and a 8" front rim on 20" rims.
2. Do I need to purchase a negative offset on the rims?
3. What's the best solution overall i.e. 3" spindles with 2" drop springs, axle flip kit etc..

All this in mind I eventually plan on bagging the truck...so am I wasting my time and money trying to lower the truck instaed of just bagging it?

I'm reaching out to you guys because it seems that there are so many different ways to accomplish this but I want to know which way is the best/correct way. Any input is greatly appreciated.

[lolife99]

5/7 is the lowest static drop and will require a bolt in c-notch.
Bagging cost will depend on how low and what front and rear suspension you decide to use.
Air management cost will vary also.

[piecesparts]

My son purchased a bagged Toyota Tacoma, a couple years ago. I will stand up and say, I DO NOT like a bagged vehicle. They look great lowered, but the pain of keeping up with the air lines, air fittings,compressor maintenance, the bags, the wheel alignments, the replacement grommets, pivot points, and the tires is an astronomical pain in the rectum. Static drop is my choice and I can climb in, start up, put it in gear and drive to my hearts content AND by the way run 80+ MPH doewn the highway without fear.

I have a lowered 84 GMC SWB, Lowered 2011 GMC SWB, My son's other truck (the real one) lowered 86 Chevy SWB. All with many happy miles and comfort in driving.

84 GMC 3 1/2" front drop, 4" drop rear
86 Chevy 3" front drop, 4" drop rear
2011 GMC 5" front drop, 7" drop rear

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

I would use a 3" spindle since you plan to use 20 inch rims.

Have you though about sectioning your cross member 1.5", and moving it forward a inch to better center your front tire. I did the front end of my cousins friend by sectioning the cross member, and Z'ing the frame 2 more inches. Then we used a C20 spring to firm up the front end along with C30 KYB shocks, and trimmed it to height he wanted. I did a super notch in the rear, and C30 shocks again. Later we added sleeve bags to trim spring rate, and add weight carrying back into the truck.

[Propureplaya]

At Ziegelsteinfaust:

Did you flip the rear axle then with the notch? If you did then did you purchase an axle flip kit or just fab something yourself?

When you used the drop spindle and cut some of the spring to get the right height did you have to remove the fender wells?

I had not thought of sectioning the cross member but I am open to anything that will help since this is my first time doing this.

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

I fabbed it up myself with off the shelf U bolts, new perches, and 5/16 plate for the mount.

I took some 1/8 strip plate we found, and made shock extenders to work at the height he wanted.

We didn't use drop spindles since we modded enough for a 6 inch front drop with out them, and the ability to get up to 7. He ran 245/60/15's on 8 inch rims so the height was fairly low. Plus they were close, and on a hard bump would touch. That is why we used the C20 springs, and C30 shocks to help stop excess movement.

If you section the cross member buy a extra one that way you can mod at your pace before you swap it in.

When I did his front end the engine, and tranny were out getting a rebuild. So I had him drop it off at my house with out the front clip. I used a high pressure pressure washer to clean it up, and set to work.

I double sectioned the cross member to help with oil pan clearance with the Z. If you ever had to work on it, and I narrowed it to help with header clearance. Then when I z'd the frame 2.5 inches I angle cut it to move it forward 1 inch like people say to help with centering the wheels. That gave me a 4 inch drop, and we did 2 on the cut C20 springs. I relocated the shocks up in the frame with pieces they cut out at a junkyard.

In all since they did most of the prep work it took me 2 days to do the mod, and one of his friends was there helping a bit. When I pulled the front end apart he took it to have new bushings pressed in. I did the work for the cost of a drop kit since I had vacation days I needed to use or lose, and I needed a few bucks for my project truck. So it worked out good for both of use. Then they reassembled the front end, ground off my support bars, shoved 2x4's into the spring pockets, and took it to his house. Then they added the C20 springs after the 350 was in place, and trimmed it a few times to get it just right.

[Propureplaya]

Thanks for the good info