Frame options????

[Duvall]

Hello all! New to this section of site. I just purchased a 1952 3100. I have seen a lot of people are using S-10 frames but not much else.

Is there other choices that would be about the same amount of work?. Wouldn't a 67-72 frame work as well.

I am in the research stage and like to get input from all your experience.

Thanks in advance for the advice.

[mr48chev]

I'd have to believe that you are number 9999 to ask this question in the past six months.

People often use the S-10 chassis because they think it is a cheap way to get modern independent suspension and steering under one of these trucks. That is fine if you don't have a frame, your frame is damaged or hacked beyond reasonable repair or maybe you bought a 1-1/2 ton truck for the great cab and now need a chassis that will work with a short bed to make a pickup out of the big truck cab. You still have to mount the cab on the frame and it isn't a bolt on deal that you can do in a couple of hours. One popular kit is over 1500 and that blows the "cheap chassis" deal out of the water. Then you still have to rebuild the usually worn out S-10 suspension at another few hundred dollars investment.

The 73/87 chassis doesn't work very well at all unless you are doing a 4x4 tall truck build. The 88 and up C-10 chassis works a little better than the 73/87 but the wheels still sit pretty wide limiting wheel choices.

If you have a really straight and nice stock frame why not keep it and install an independent crossmember or a dropped axle and a matching open drive rear axle if you do an engine and trans swap? Solid platform, no issues with lining up the body parts, no issues with the state on a cobbled up mismatched body/chassis that has already come to haunt some guys doing S-10 swaps, No hacking up the front end sheet metal to clear the suspension and frame horns. Speedway and a couple of others even sell a bolt in Mustang II style crossmember that only takes a 1/2 inch electric drill and a hand full of hand tools to install in less than a day including pulling the original axle and steering out. It may not be the cheapest but it is all measure, drill and bolt and done.

[torchlight]

I agree, if you have a useable stock frame, I'd recommend upgrading the suspension on it rather than swapping frames altogether.

[curmudgeon]

"If it ain't broke ..." The popluarity of AD trucks has a least a dozen vendors marketing quality suspensions for the stock frame. As mr48 describes, everything from a Sid's dropped axle, Speedway bolt in to Flat Out Engineering's Corvette kits. Fatman Fab carries 4 different front options alone. There must be enough folks with the bucks to even afford the many full aftermarket complete roller frames available for these trucks.

More specific advice can be given if you can narrow down what kind of build you want.

[brikar]

I also agree with keeping stock frame if its good.

[Duvall]

I have to tell ya, getting caught up in all the hype hadn't even thought about that.. You are right K.I.S.S. A cross member would make a lot more sense for me. Thanks for answering number 10,000. LOL You really did bring it all back to reality.

Now to get the Speedway book out.

Thanks.

[Duvall]

The build is going to be a driver. Mild V-8, auto tranny. I love the body in the shape it is in. Clean up the interior, make it reliable and enjoy it. I don't plan on making it a show truck, but do like to have a clean nice truck.

[tiddlar]

what if he decides to go pros street? with 20x15's in the back>?

[Malice]

Someone should write up a thread with all this basic info and they should make it a sticky at the top of the page since it is a topic that is brought up a lot.

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by tiddlar

what if he decides to go pros street? with 20x15's in the back>?

Make a new frame if you want, it's easier and MUCH better finished product than swapping in the wrong frame!

Brian