brake booster replacement

[mpierce9]

I just replaced the vacuum brake booster and master cylinder on my truck (1975 Blazer). After tightening everything down I realized my brake pedal will not return to the "non braking" position.

Do I need to bench bleed the M/C? Should I bleed my entire braking system?

Would either of these two steps possibly resolve the issue of my brake pedal not returning to the "non braking" position?

If not what other options do I have?

There is no spring involved in this setup. There wasn't one before and there still isn't. I didn't remove a spring and after vigorous investigation I cannot see a spring.

[SilverMiner]

Here's a bump for you. I have the same problem with a 78 Jimmy and I'd love to hear someone give you an answer.

[tucsonjwt]

I have never had that problem when I have replaced boosters. However, there are at least two different boosters and, as I recall, there are two different "shaft" lengths behind the booster. I think some aftermarkets come with two different shafts and you install the correct one.

I am vague on this, but I know a spent some time trying to verify that I was getting the correct booster for my 83 C20. I would double check the Rock Auto and Delco catalogs online to make sure you have the correct booster. I use www.oehq.com and www.oewarehouse.com to look for Delco parts.

Personally, I would use only Delco for a functioning safety part like a booster. For the rest of the brake system, I use Delco for the wheel cylinders and calipers if the discount price is reasonable, and use aftermarket for the drums, shoes, pads and other strictly mechanical parts. But each to his or her own.

[mpierce9]

I was able to resolve this. There is a nut attaching the pedal to the rest of the assembly. That nut shouldn't be very tight. I loosened this and just snugged it down. That allowed the pedal to return back to the standard position.

To complete this project I bench bleed the master cylinder and reinstalled it. Everything is working great.