leaking trans line at radiator help

[1911a1]

ran into major stumbling block when I was trying to break in my new engine. The trans input line leaks badly at the radiator.

I will try looking closer at it and look for burs on the line flare.
Not sure what I can see on radiator bung except to try an inspection mirror.

One other problem is the old flare nut on the line has about had it.

If I have to repair what do I need to track down to do it. I've done some searches and I seen references to "barbed flares' to make sure the rubber hose doesn't come off. But where can I get the new steel flare? is it possible to use brass? And what tools do I need to do it.

Appreciate any help I can get.

Thanks

[vidman]

Cut the old flair off the line get a new nut put new nut on the line and then flair the line again. plenty of room to flair in place. make sure you check the threads in the rad are ok. The rad should have a male inverted flair for the line to go into..

[WIDESIDE72]

Before giving up in the old flare try loosening and tightening it several times. This is similar to lapping valves to get the two faces to mate. If still no luck, proceed as above.

[davepl]

Both of the last two are right! First back it off and retighten it a few times. This can cause the flare to deform enough to match the seat.

Failing that, cut it off as close to the end as you can, put a new tube nut on it and flare it. You can rent the flaring tool at most auto parts stores. Maybe buy a couple of feet of 5/16 (or whatever) tubing to practice on.

You don't want rubber in your trans cooler system. I've been there, done that, and have the tow truck receipts to prove it.

[FirstOwner69]

Great info given above by all posters. Also, as you loosen and retighten try changing the angle slightly. Sometimes that helps. Check for leaks after each try and be sure not to cross thread the nut.

[1911a1]

Thanks for all the pointers!

[1911a1]

A question about the flair does it need to be a single or double flair?
Thanks!

[davepl]

Double. If you peek into the female fitting in the radiator you'll see a seat (inverted cone with a hole in the middle) that the double-flare will seal against.

[68C15]

Side tip to keep in mind. When I make new double inverted flares I go easy on the second flare. Then let the mating fitting finish the flare. It makes for a "custom" fit that never leaks. I live in the rust belt and replace metal brake, fuel, and tarns lines at work frequently. So frequently that I have the Mastercool hydraulic tool ($400)

[davepl]

Good point... I have the Mastercool as well (cannot speak highly enough of it) and have two brake line fittings I made that are leaking. My bad, as I think the incoming line was not a straight shot at the female. You can't cheat.

But if I understand what you're saying, you go a lot easier on the Cone step, and let that finish forming when you tighten?

[oldschool18]

I don't know about brass or cooper......I will never use steel again so I used stainless

[68C15]

Originally Posted by 1911a1

Thanks for all the pointers!

BTW, I like your username.

[1911a1]

Update, I bought a crimp kit and put a new crimp on. unfortunately I didn't consult the responses before I did it and went with a single crimp.
So far so good. I'll watch it close.
Thanks for the help!