Still trying to figger out what's happening to my coolant

[Skunksmash]

Ok an update. Mechanic found a small leak near the bottom of the radiator. His price is $178 for a new radiator, minus installation. I think I will just install the radiator myself.

What do yall think of this one from ebay? A good deal? Also what is the guarantee that it will fit? My trusted mechanic said something about measuring in between the top hooks that hold the radiator in place. Then again I don't know if that's just his bad experiences he's had with ordering them.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Radiator...07d39f&vxp=mtr

[motornut]

Originally Posted by Skunksmash

Ok an update. Mechanic found a small leak near the bottom of the radiator. His price is $178 for a new radiator, minus installation. I think I will just install the radiator myself.

What do yall think of this one from ebay? A good deal? Also what is the guarantee that it will fit? My trusted mechanic said something about measuring in between the top hooks that hold the radiator in place. Then again I don't know if that's just his bad experiences he's had with ordering them.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Radiator...07d39f&vxp=mtr

where do your heater core hoses go?
water pump or off the rad,make sure you don't end up with both!

[motornut]

this may show you better

[Skunksmash]

Yeah the heater hoses go off the water pump. Also I have the 700R4 auto. So that is all the info I really need to know? Pulled the old radiator last night, looks like its brass. Anybody know how many cores, and how many rows it would have come with from the factory?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Skunksmash

Yeah the heater hoses go off the water pump. Also I have the 700R4 auto. So that is all the info I really need to know? Pulled the old radiator last night, looks like its brass. Anybody know how many cores, and how many rows it would have come with from the factory?

Either 3 or 4 row brass core depending on the drivetrain combination from the factory.

[Skunksmash]

Well it was 5.7L 700R4 2WD.

I've been looking at the ones on rockauto. They pretty much have the factory radiator, albeit maybe made by a different supplier by now. And they're pretty expensive.

Would it be a good idea to downgrade to a single row radiator? The ones that are exactly like mine seem to be $250-300. There are singe row aluminum ones for $150 that look like they would fit. But that would be changing from brass to aluminum. Don't know if the increase in heat dissipation would counteract 2 missing rows.

Here is the one it came with:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vista-Pro-Au...158e73&vxp=mtr

Here is the one I'd like to know if I can use:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Spectra-Prem...574880&vxp=mtr

[SCOTI]

Stick w/the brass unit as there's no need for alum in your app. 2-row alum units are better when running elect fans.

Your local auto parts houses prob offer radiators w/warranty so that should be a consideration vs online purchase in the event of a future issue. I bought a 3-row brass radiator for my 74 online @ a great price w/a lifetime warranty. Then a year + later it started leaking. I couldn't find the reciept & they didn't maintain records so I was screwed there as well as I would have had to wait for return shipping etc.... I went down to Oreillys & picked up the replacement.

Bought the replacement 4-row brass radiator for my TBI 454 dually @ Oreillys as well.

[Skunksmash]

Well looking at these, I'd have to go with aluminum due to price. I'm not sure if it matters, just throwing that out there. They do seem to be of a slightly different shape than the black factory looking ones, but hopefully it would fit.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/se...RWD&vi=1059825

And I don't really trust Autozone for parts that are under any kind of pressure. Or heat. I just try to avoid autozone.

[LynnJr]

Skunkmash
If you can get it in aluminum get it in aluminum.They are way better radiators than the old brass ones and they are feather light as well.

If your blowing coolant out of your overflow tank when it is full it is not your radiator causing the problem.
I am building another 350 as I type because I discovered water in my oil filler cap a couple weeks ago.

MY DIPSTICK SHOWS NO SIGN OF WATER AT ALL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The water sinks to the bottom of the pan and the oil floats on it.

I would put a catch pan under your truck and pull the plug long enough to catch a quart or two.

Pour the oil into a clear plastic pepsi bottle and let it sit overnight.If you have water it will sink to the bottom of the bottle and be mostly clear.You will then have a section that is the color of chocolate milk then dark oil on top.

If all is well you simply pour the oil back in so your only out a bottle.

If you put a new radiator in it and your engine pressurizes it you can pop your new radiator.

I would solve the original problem first.

[Skunksmash]

I got some of the water in a clear plastic container so I'll take a look for oil.

The water was so full of rust that it was actually light brown for a long time and then the next day there was finally some green. I don't know if that is an indicator or anything or not. Other than the cooling system needing to be flushed. Down in the intake its nasty with that rust color. Same for the old radiator.

[Your41Plague12]

Originally Posted by Skunksmash

I got some of the water in a clear plastic container so I'll take a look for oil.

The water was so full of rust that it was actually light brown for a long time and then the next day there was finally some green. I don't know if that is an indicator or anything or not. Other than the cooling system needing to be flushed. Down in the intake its nasty with that rust color. Same for the old radiator.

I believe he meant the other way around. Check your oil for water, not water for oil.