fuel tank replacement

[dj_thompson]

Hi everybody.
I did a quick search of the forums but I didn't find what I was looking for. Anyone replace a fuel tank on a 1972 suburban? Any tips would help greatly.

[pwdcougar]

Shouldn't be too tough of a job and is pretty straight forward. There are two straps holding it up. Did you get new ones or are you reusing the originals? I put a board on a floor jack to hold it up while I undo the fuel line and sending unit wire after removing the straps. Putting the truck on jack stands and removing the rear wheels gives you a little more room to roll around underneath too. On the filler neck side it helps to remove the neck from the body. There are 3 phillips screws. If you hit the strap bolts with PBlaster to make them come off easier.

Oh, drain/siphon as much gas out before you start of course!

Good luck!

Paul

[dj_thompson]

Thanks. I plan on ordering a full replacement kit with the straps, fasteners, everything.

[WhiteWhale]

what was the largest tank one could get from the factory? i only see 21gal avail from LMC

[dj_thompson]

I'm not sure of the factory sizes, I'm just going with the 21 gallon tank from LMC.

[chewiebarker]

21 gal is as big as OE gets for that year. Some people swap in a 40gal from later models, but it does require relocating some cross supports and rework the filler tube. Also, you have to change the sending unit. Doesn't look too difficult but will take some time.

[zac]

Let us know how it goes. The replacement tank I got from LMC years ago did not fit like the original, and the straps were less than ideal. I'm hoping the quality is better these days. I'm actually planning on repairing my old tank and I picked up some good used OEM straps off the classifieds on this board....

[pwdcougar]

I rebuilt my original straps by removing the rivets on the hanger side and cut strips of galvanized sheet metal that was laying around. I just used bolts to attach to the hangers and played around a bit with the length.

Not sure what the original cushion material was. I used rubber roofing material.

Paul

[dj_thompson]

So is flushing the old tank a better option? I know it has rust in it because I've ruined two fuel filters already, but I'm pretty sure it doesn't leak.

[BB72CHEVKT]

Originally Posted by dj_thompson

So is flushing the old tank a better option? I know it has rust in it because I've ruined two fuel filters already, but I'm pretty sure it doesn't leak.

I would take the current tank to a radiator shop and have they clean it and then see what it looks like because nothing fits better than the original. I had problems with the aftermarket one.

[dj_thompson]

Thanks for the info. Maybe I'll just start there then.

[pwdcougar]

I cleaned my tank inside with hot soapy water then with muriatic acid. The small rust holes were patched with small pieces of sheet metal soldered on with a plumbers torch. Years ago I watched a radiator guy do a similar patch on the same tank. That patch held up for 30 years and is still holding. Only difference was that he didn't clean out the tank and it was still full of gas fumes. He didn't use a torch, he used a huge electric soldering iron.

To get the solder to stick the rusty spots had to be cleaned with the muriatic acid too.

Before installation I'll use one of the commercial tank preps.

Paul

[BK72BURB_3/4Ton4x4]

Early Classics makes a 27 gallon 14 gauge stainless steel tank for 67-72 Suburban. Seems like a reasonable capacity compromise between the factory 21 gallon and those elusive 40 gallon tanks out there.

http://www.earlyclassic.com/home.aspx

Sales guy told me:
2. The tank's shipping weight is 70 pounds
3. It does not have a roll-over valve
4. It is 10" deep and mounts flush with the top of the frame rails

It's quite a showpiece and they are very proud of them so be prepared to part with a grand from your wallet. Not a lot of other larger capacity choices out there that I can find. I had a 30 gallon tank in my '91 Suburban but didn't measure before I sold it so not sure on retrofit possibilities.

[LuckyScott]

Really easy to drop the tank. I have had mine out and used the gas tank repair putty on it. It had a hole in the bottom corner, and the putty works better if you pull the tank and dump out the gas so it is nice and dry.
Take your stock tank to a guy and have it sealed, it will work great unless it is really bad.

[Gobuffalo]

There's a place in San Bernardino, CA called Aero Tanks. Took my burb there for a quote on a 45 gallon custom tank with a pump for EFI. He wanted $450.00 complete with a skid plate.
I bought a plastic tank from LMC. It fit fine except the inlet was an odd size hose (smaller than the original). Took some searching to find the right hose.

[vectorit]

Originally Posted by dj_thompson

So is flushing the old tank a better option? I know it has rust in it because I've ruined two fuel filters already, but I'm pretty sure it doesn't leak.

I wouldn't even bother... The fuel tank is such an important part, and it is not all that expensive in the grand scheme of things when getting these trucks back on the road safely and reliably.

Save up a few bucks, take your time, and do it right. Get a new one.. You will be much more better off in the long run.

[In The Ten Ring]

If your old tank isn't destroyed, you might want to take it to a radiator shop and get it "renewed." That way, you can be sure it will fit with no hassles at all.

I did that with my tank. They cut holes in the sides to get in there with their sand blaster and they knocked out all the flash rust. Then they welded up the holes. Finally, they coated the insides with a thick, black material. They are guaranteed for life. I spray painted the outside of my tank with two coats of red primer and two coats of "hammered" silver.

Now my tank goes back inside my cab...you may want them to use the "renew" material on the outside of your tank since you have a Burb. Cost me about $200.00.