New project! The "Red Herring"

[Advanced Design]

Nice work on the right side of the cab! G body front clip swap with the 72 rear frame section will be interesting. The steering box won't get into the inner fender?

[oldman3]

J52, I've heard guy use the G body front end with good results. The rear of the 67-72 frame is different. Why couldn't you use the components of this system and just mount to the existing rear section of frame?...Jim

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by oldman3

J52, I've heard guy use the G body front end with good results. The rear of the 67-72 frame is different. Why couldn't you use the components of this system and just mount to the existing rear section of frame?...Jim

In this case, the rear of the frame on this truck is BEAT. Rusty, cracked and bent.

That said, I saw a thread on here (which I can't find at the moment of course ) where they installed a 67-72 rear trailing arm setup into an AD frame and it worked out pretty well - my reasoning was, since I'm already going to have to reposition the cab with the front clip anyway, and since all the stepside beds are close in design, it should not be terribly difficult.

I also have access to a 67-72 frame with bent frame horns up front, so that helped make the decision. I've taken a whole slew of measurements off my trucks and a few others I've looked at, and it seems like everything should line up nicely. How far I get, we shall see...

[iowaboynca]

Originally Posted by JJorgensen52

I saw a thread on here (which I can't find at the moment of course ) where they installed a 67-72 rear trailing arm setup into an AD frame and it worked out pretty well - my reasoning was, since I'm already going to have to reposition the cab with the front clip anyway, and since all the stepside beds are close in design, it should not be terribly difficult.

Sound's like Leevon's "Popeye" build, love that build.

I have a 83 cutlass wagon and some quick measurements seem to be the same wheelbase. if my frame was sketchy I was going to use it. Will be interested to watch how you do.

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by oldman3

Seems you've done your homework on the fit, I'm along for the build, so I'll keep watching, best of luck...Jim

Thanks! I can use all the luck I can get

Originally Posted by flashed

That Cutlass nose if in good shape should bring in some extra cash ,kind of hard to find them.

Well this is nice to know. Other than the grills being cracked everything on this car is pretty nice.

Originally Posted by iowaboynca

Sound's like Leevon's "Popeye" build, love that build.

That's not the one I was thinking of, but that is one sweet truck I hadn't seen before!

Today I had a day of unexpected warm, sunny weather. Which meant I did an outdoor project I've been holding off on - I made the fence between my house and my garage "swing away" so I could get the part storage trailer and my parts car into the back yard (and actually park my daily in the driveway )



But I did start tearing down the driver's side



This side will need more repairs in the pillars. I have a patch for the rear pillar and I'm going to fab up the lower section below the hinge pocket (which is in fine shape)

Other news, there was a baseball sized dent in this pillar, which I'm working on massaging out. I've never done hammer and dolly work before, so slow going here and being careful. A tap here, a tap there!


I should have a pretty easy week at work this week so stay tuned for updates!

[oldman3]

Seems you've done your homework on the fit, I'm along for the build, so I'll keep watching, best of luck...Jim

[flashed]

That Cutlass nose if in good shape should bring in some extra cash ,kind of hard to find them.

[JJorgensen52]

I've been distracted doing research these past few days - got the wiring harness off the 4.8L and am sending it out tomorrow or Thursday for standalone conversion and reflash. Keeping the VVT features, EVAP purge function, but deleting the rest of the emissions stuff.

I also got on the horn with MAR-K and ordered a bed. A pleasure to deal with those folks!

First off, rust repair. Apparently the PO thought bondo was a substitute for structural steel?


So out with the bad bit


Clamp up the patch panel


and wala!


That's the second round of tacks. Still have a little more to do. I wanted to get this repair done before I cut the rockers free, so I had a good solid reference to get the height and angle correct.

Second: Who can guess A. What this is / where it's from and B. What I'm going to be doing with it?

[Advanced Design]

Nice patching! Hate to say it, I am striking out on the part....should know what it is.

[JJorgensen52]

I'll give you a hint on the origin... it's at the fringe of what I would classify as a pickup truck ...

Forgot my camera tonight, and didn't spend much time but I finished welding the pillar patch and fixed the radio opening ... the bottom of the opening was bent down about 5/8", just like someone had cut the corners and folded it to install an oversized radio. No idea. Straightened it up, welded the edges, a little dolly work and it's done.

[JJorgensen52]

More progress on the driver's side. Did a lot of metal removal, and started reconstructing the bottom of the front pillar:


Other than that, spent a lot of time today at/on the phone with the DMV working on some troubles related to the title on this truck - looks like that is finally in the clear, as long as the VIN inspecting official doesn't have a problem with the phillips screws holding the plate on (the original ones which appear to be unique to 49-50 GMC from what I have found).

More progress tomorrow!

[Advanced Design]

You will have the left side knocked out in no time.

The part above...ElCamino part?

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

You will have the left side knocked out in no time.

The part above...ElCamino part?

You are correct, good sir. It is a 4th gen ElCamino tailgate latch assembly. Maybe if y'all are curious enough I'll post the sketch of what I'm planning

And you are correct again, because I am happy to report the left side is 90% done.

First, finished the bottom of the pillar:




Then cleared out all the old metal


Got everything lined up and marked


And then I tried a technique I saw in a build thread from one of our members in Holland, welding the rocker, mount and pan together prior to install like the factory did:



Then dropped it in, clamped the pillars down and tacked the pan in place


I still have to make the top edge of the toe-board, fit the new kick panel, and then I'll locate and weld the front pillar for the final time.
And THEN, I'll make the 7/8" long filler piece between the two new front floor pans ... Why don't they make them full width???

Anyways. A good day!

[oldman3]

Nice repairs...Jim

[Advanced Design]

I agree, very nice repairs. Yep, I am curious about the ElCamino part. Going to use it on your tail gate?

[JJorgensen52]

Thanks guys! I am glad to be learning

Being a Patriots fan, didn't get a whole lot done today

Made the upper toeboard patch and tacked in the driver's kick panel



I still need to 100% confirm my pillar is set in the right place, then I will do the spot welds at the rear of the kick panel, fit the lower curved bit and weld it all up solid. Then rear floors!

Here's the sketch for my idea. Hopefully my chicken scratch is clear enough


I've ordered my new tailgate from MAR-K without the chain eyes, and based on measuring the gate on my '69 step I *should* be able to get the latches and linkage to fit entirely inside the upper curl of the gate. The handle assembly is going to require a raised section at the center of the gate, but the El Camino latch is the very smallest one I could find (less than 2" tall and about 3/8" thick) and should require only a minimal boxed section.

The idea is to make it look as if the factory did it this way. As long as it fits the splines, I'm using this handle:


It is a reasonable match to the size and the shape of the door handles. We will see how happy I am with it in the long run.

[Advanced Design]

Cool idea! Looking forward to seeing it.

[Advanced Design]

Good progress. If you can, throw up another pic of the tranny tunnel please.

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Good progress. If you can, throw up another pic of the tranny tunnel please.

You can see here how wide the section I had to make was. About 7/8"


Factory trans cover fits


Speaking of which: My battery door does NOT fit into the replacement floor pan - I knew the replacement pans didn't have the seat for the latches formed in, but the edges of the lid are more square than the stamping in the pan and it doesn't fit. Has anybody run into this before?

[JJorgensen52]

Well, spent Friday night trying to make a patch panel for the back of the cab, and I was not at all satisfied - it was just not possible to get a good bend in a 40" wide piece of metal with the tools I had at hand.

So this afternoon (I spent the morning helping a friend get an engine ready to go back in his truck) I stopped at HarborFreight and bought the cheapest 30" brake I could get my hands on

I made two 20" patches from the old '71 hood


And then trimmed and tweaked them to fit



I ended up with a patch that is actually about 38 1/2" wide, it was so sized that I can use the original metal of the cab at the edges to locate the new inner rockers and the patch, but when I install the cab corners, the bottom lip of the back wall will be 100% new.

Everything is clamped up, squared and ready to weld tomorrow if I get a moment

[JJorgensen52]

Pulled out the rear floor pan tonight:


Found a section in the rear cab wall that needs repair. Probably about 2" high at the worst point and maybe 10" wide, driver's side close to center


And test fitting new mounts and the first portion of my Street Rod floor kit


The rear panel on this cab is also BEAT so I'm debating with myself my exact method of going forward from here.

Separate note: I cut the rear cab braces (all three of which were damaged) about 5" below the reinforcing rib at the top of the rear panel - it feels like they were welded in there before the rear panel was installed, how to remove them?

[oldman3]

Originally Posted by JJorgensen52

Separate note: I cut the rear cab braces (all three of which were damaged) about 5" below the reinforcing rib at the top of the rear panel - it feels like they were welded in there before the rear panel was installed, how to remove them?

Yes these braces were spot welded at the top to the rear panel. Section 1 sheet 42 of the assembly manual shows the part. My main computer is at the repair shop so I can't scan a picture to put up on here. Don't know your fab skills but you may have to make up pieces to add to this and extend down to bottom of new floor pan...Jim

[JJorgensen52]

In roughly reverse order:

Originally Posted by oldman3

Yes these braces were spot welded at the top to the rear panel. Section 1 sheet 42 of the assembly manual shows the part. My main computer is at the repair shop so I can't scan a picture to put up on here. Don't know your fab skills but you may have to make up pieces to add to this and extend down to bottom of new floor pan...Jim

I have the replacement braces, so I am not concerned about that for the moment, I just could not see any spot welds inside the cab to drill in order to separate them from the rear panel.

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Farmer Sid replaced the back panel on his truck. Here it is in case you haven't seen the build. Worth a look.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=632938

This build is actually the primary reason I do not want to replace the rear panel - it seemed like there was a LOT of delicate metal surgery involved;

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Can you show the braces? Is the rear panel dented up or too rusty?

The major problem with the rear panel is dents. The driver's side has one that I can work out, but the passenger's side looks like it was caved in at some point, and beat back out with a baseball bat. It was filled with bondo - up to a 1/2" thick in places.

That said, the metal is in good shape all along the beltline at the top of the panel and for most of the rest of it save the dented area.

The rust at the bottom lip I can fabricate a replacement piece for, so that I am not too concerned about.

If you look back at the first photos in posts #14 and #21, you can see a little bit of what I'm referring to about the passenger's side. I realize I haven't posted a good photo, I can snap one this afternoon.

[oldman3]

Originally Posted by JJorgensen52

I have the replacement braces, so I am not concerned about that for the moment, I just could not see any spot welds inside the cab to drill in order to separate them from the rear panel.

Not sure, but I don't think there is enough room to get a drill in to drill the welds. Wish I could put up the picture. As last resort you could cut the present brace near the top and weld new brace on at that point to extend down to the floor...Jim

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by oldman3

Not sure, but I don't think there is enough room to get a drill in to drill the welds. Wish I could put up the picture. As last resort you could cut the present brace near the top and weld new brace on at that point to extend down to the floor...Jim

In looking through some more photos in Farmer Sid's build, it looks like you're right. I suppose the other alternative is I could cut the lip free on the inside, drill the welds, spot the new braces in and then weld it back together??

I think I like the splicing old to new idea best. The tops of the braces were fine, they were bent/kinked at the bottom which is why I purchased the replacements.