Restoring Rusty

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by MikeB

On another note, I think we're due for some progress pics of your truck -- a few shots of the outside, inside, and engine compartment.

Good idea, remember a while back when I removed the radiator shroud to clean and blackatize it, well I don't recon I ever took pics of it when installed, so here they are, before and after.

(dang it the pics aint too good cause of the sun... complain, complain, complain, I get it, sorry)

[Gregski]

when I bought these joints I specifically asked the AutoZoner if I would have to lube them up, he said no, just install them, but they do come with the grease fitting and the ability to lube them up later

so I was not too happy to see that sign that said "MUST BE LUBRICATED AFTER INSTALLATION"

I went to reach for my grease gun and it felt a bit light, someone removed the grease tube, it was empty... grrrr

so I ghetto lubed one up by removing the lube nipple and packing it with bearing grease

then I went to lube the other one and it was full of grease, what the heck, did they forget to lube the first? I thought

[Gregski]

well if the assembly is the reverse of the disassembly then we bolt up the transmission yoke first - done

[Gregski]

but when we go to mount up the rear joint to the differential we see that it is way too narrow for the yoke

what is going on here?

we measure the width of the old one 3 5/8ths

we measure the width of the new one 3 3/16ths

no bueno

back to AutoZone...

[Gregski]

AutoZone rep is super helpful (easy on the eyes too) confirms I indeed have the right part number/part. She also looks up to see if the 3/4 ton trucks have one to match my used one, as well as the 1 ton, we also try different years 77, etc. to no avail

so off to O'Reilly's, here the rep is awesome he goes Def Con 4 for me and starts bringing out u-joint after u-joint and grabs a micrometer and starts measuring until we find an exact match

I ask him so what application is the one like mine for, he says he doesn't know

I say I'll take it

[Gregski]

I'll be honest with you, after redoing the front joint twice/three times cause of the fallen down needle bearings, and redoing the rear joint twice cause of the wrong size, I did not attempt the middle joint, I am not proud of that, but I will replace it when I play with the rear end / differential and have access to my buddy's press

[Gregski]

I installed the clutch and brake pedals but didn't take any pictures as there aint much to see there, I also installed the Z-bar and the clutch linkage, again did not take any pics as it is difficult to take pics of that area

once it was all buttoned up, it was time for the Valvoline cocktail, poor Rusty was dehydrated, he downed 4 quarts and could have gone for more, but that's all I had

so the IV method with the clear line and the trans fluid bottle did not work well cause the bottle needed a burp hole in order to breathe and even when I cut a hole in it (beer shot gun style) it still wasn't flowing fast enuff

the funnel with the clear line was the way to go, it still takes time to run down the tube but you see clearly the progress

somewhere along there I tried squeezing a bottle directly into the transmission by laying under the car and I could get about 2/3 of a bottle in that way but not all of it, the funnel method worked the best for me

[Gregski]

so here is a summary

started the truck and heard a metal on metal rubbing noise, so heart stops, dollar signs flash before your eyes

you tell yourself don't panic, the clutch needs adjusting, so you double check the free pedal clearance... 1 1/2 inches, spot on

you say what the heck loosen up the clutch fork all the way, what? still rubbing metal on metal, oh no, but it can't be the clutch

wait a minute I bet it's that stupid fly wheel inspection plate cover attached to the bell housing, ever since I bent it back a bit cause it was funky, I second guess my correction because maybe it was bent that way for a reason, so I removed the darn thing, NO MORE NOISE

put the clutch fork back into play, and go for a test drive, truck was cold, needed to warm up some, other than that, maybe another pedal adjustment, but other than that, all good

left the truck in a new dry stain free spot on the driveway, we will see in the morning if he left a mark, fingers crossed (this was a main seal repair after all, LOL)

[canadian_diesel1964]

Lol man the life of a shade tree mechanic eh!!

[Chaplain]

Well what's the verdict?

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Chaplain

Well what's the verdict?

Good follow up Chap, well went out there the first thing this morning in my pajamas and slippers.

Dang it there is a stain the size of two quarters under the truck. Right under the transmission drain plug.

So I called a tow truck and had it towed to the junk yard! No just kidding just checking if anyone else is actually reading this, sorry fellas.

Ok, so I feel the transmission drain plug and there is a drop of trans fluid on it ready to drip, (fyi the truck is on a pretty good incline in the driveway, front up) I wipe it with my finger, and it looks like trans fluid, feels like trans fluid, smells like trans fluid, and tastes like trans fluid.

So I am gonna say, lets not send Rusty to the crusher just yet. I bet this is just the run off of the little bit of transmission fluid that I got all over the (newly painted transmission) whilst trying to fill her up. (All the other Greg's fault as he didn't tell me I could fill her up through the shift hole) yes we'll go with that, hee hee

[Woodyboat]

Originally Posted by Gregski

... I wipe it with my finger, and it looks like trans fluid, feels like trans fluid, smells like trans fluid, and tastes like trans fluid.

WOW! I'm sure glad you didn't step in it!!

If you haven't figured this out yet, I'm reading the entire thread from start to finish. I love it.

[Jake Wade]

I would run through the valve adjustment again, it is acting like they are a tad too tight.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Jake Wade

I would run through the valve adjustment again, it is acting like they are a tad too tight.

Hi Jake, I agree about the valves needing an adjustment, not sure if they is too tight, as I am not that good at diagnosing them, but I will definitely check them today and report back

I do hear a tick and to me it sounds like one may be loose sounds like it is a comin' from the passenger side, here's the absolutely crazy thing though, it sounded exactly precisely the same before I did the top end swap/job, in other words the old heads aka the old valve train was generating the exact same tick (lets just keep that in mind as if it may turn out to be something else, something silly, like a bolt sticking out and tapping a firewall or something crazy like that)

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Woodyboat

WOW! I'm sure glad you didn't step in it!!

If you haven't figured this out yet, I'm reading the entire thread from start to finish. I love it.

ha ha, I said that, hmmm, thank you so much and enjoy the read

[greg64]

Greg, those u joints are pesky, eh? The large one on the transmission is a 1350. I think most of the half ton rear ends used a 1310, but yours isn't. I suspect the axle is a 1330. See if the bearing cap diameter is the same or smaller then the transmission ujoint.

By the way, you can fill the transmission up with fluid through the shifter hole when the shifter is out. Might have been easier.

Anyway, good work on getting it all back together.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by greg64

The large one on the transmission is a 1350. I think most of the half ton rear ends used a 1310, but yours isn't. I suspect the axle is a 1330. See if the bearing cap diameter is the same or smaller then the transmission ujoint.

The rear bearing cap is indeed smaller than the transmission one in the front.

Originally Posted by greg64

By the way, you can fill the transmission up with fluid through the shifter hole when the shifter is out. Might have been easier.

ARE YOU SERIOUS !!! boy do I feel silly, lessons learned baby, lessons learned

[enaberif]

A little tip when doing ujoints put a small amount of grease on the needle bearings. It helps hold them in place for installation.

[bnoon]

Originally Posted by enaberif

A little tip when doing ujoints put a small amount of grease on the needle bearings. It helps hold them in place for installation.

The ones I've purchased most recently had a little bit of grease inside to hold everything in place already. I used to put a tiny bit in there for the same reason and it seems some manufacturers do the same thing.

Glad Rusty is back among the living!!!

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by enaberif

A little tip when doing ujoints put a small amount of grease on the needle bearings. It helps hold them in place for installation.

Yes of course, they had grease for sure, otherwise it would have been impossible. But we all know that even with grease sometimes they lay down.

[Gregski]

Words according to Manuel 7M:5

Only one adjustment is necessary to compensate for all normal clutch wear.

The clutch pedal should have free travel (measured at clutch pedal pad) before the throwout bearing engages the clutch diaphragm spring or levers.

Lash is required to prevent clutch slippage which would occur if the bearing was held against the fingers or to prevent the bearing from running continually.

[ preach on my brotha ]

1. Disconnect return spring at clutch fork.

2. Rotate clutch lever and shaft assembly until clutch pedal is firmly against rubber bumper on brake pedal bracket.

[ do I even have a rubber bumper any more, lol ]

3. Push outer end of clutch fork rearward until throwout bearing lightly contacts pressure plate fingers or levers.

4. Loosen lock nut and adjust rod length so that swivel slips freely into gauge hole. Increase pushrod length until all lash is removed from system.

5. Remove swivel from gauge hole and insert into lower hole on lever. Install two washers and cotter pin. Tighten lock nut being careful not change rod
length.

6. Reinstall return spring and check pedal free travel.

Pedal travel should be 1 3/8" to 1 5/8" on "C -K " models.

[ oh just say 1 1/2" already for crying out loud, hee hee ]


Seriously though, you allz follow these steps, cause I sure didn't I do have 1 1/2 inch free pedal play, but I didn't get there this way, a re check is in order.

[greg64]

What a joker! Sorry I seem to have helpful tips for you *after* you needed them.

I think your axle ujoint is a 1330. The 1350 has larger diameter caps. The 1330 and 1310 have the same size caps, but the 1330 is wider.

That transmission drain plug is a low point, so anything that leaks from above will work its way down to the drain lug and drip from there. More importantly, is the rear main holding?

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by greg64

I think your axle ujoint is a 1330. The 1350 has larger diameter caps. The 1330 and 1310 have the same size caps, but the 1330 is wider.

found this U-Joint site that explains / helps identify all the basic U-Joint Series, it does confirm my rear one is a 1330

who knew there was so much to a joint (fill in your own college reference)

Universal Joint Identification

[greg64]

Greg, I'm with you folks who outsource driveshaft work. It's generally not expensive, and I want to be sure it is done right. I've had a number of custom shafts made over the years. There's just no way I could balance them correctly in my garage.

Glad you found the ujoint diagrams, and they confirm my memory.

[Gregski]

ah the Sunday morning paper, some day I'll own some 6 ton floor jack stands (to replace my 3 tons with)