Urgent, need opinions on my new crate engine

[1972BlueC20]

Guys I need your urgent input please!

Here is the situation in a nutshell :

I just ordered the 290 HP Gm crate 350 engine from Summit Racing.

Part # 19244450

I have since been hearing a lot of negative comments regarding this engine. Some people say they love it, and it's fine for a daily driver (which is what I want out of it, and I just want it to be equivalent to my current stock 175HP 350 engine)....others say it's a complete dog, especially off the line and in low RPM's.....I understand its all subjective and relative to everyone's own opinions....also there are many factors at play here which vary from person to person..for example.....1/2 ton, or 3/4 ton, 4x4, or 2WD, manual or automatic tranny....stall, no stall....rear end gearing....also there may be other issues with other faulty parts....bad distributors....incorrect timing settings....ect ect ect....

I'm looking for comments from everyone....but at the same time I would really like to hear from people who have first hand experienced the performance of this engine in our trucks or know someone who has rather than people just seeing the specs on paper and saying, "oh that engine is going to be a dog because of reason xyz".....I know you guys know your stuff and would probably be right in making judgement based just on specs, and I want your opinions too so please don't take that the wrong way.

My reason for needing input urgently is because, the engine has already been shipped from summit and should arrive tomorrow or Monday. I spoke to summit just now about my options of potentially returning the engine and buying another engine instead.....they told me that if I just REFUSE the delivery, it will get sent back and I will not be charged anything. I then can order the new engine and have it delivered on another shipment. This may create some issues, so I took screenshots of the chat dialog where the agent said I WOULD NOT BE CHARGED in case I do this and then they try to charge me. I don't really want to go through all this unless the engine is really going to be horrible! I don't like to be wishy-washy about anything, but I'm spending about $5K on this deal with parts and labor for the install and I just want to be happy at the end of this. Again, I'm not looking to build a hotrod, just a plenty of power stock equivalent daily driver engine for my 72 c20.

To you guys that have already given me some input on this in other posts that I've made, i'm sorry to keep going on about this but I'm just having some buyers remorse and it's a crappy feeling.


Thanks in advance guys!!

[sprint_9]

Originally Posted by 1972BlueC20

I just want it to be equivalent to my current stock 175HP 350 engine)

Why not just rebuild/freshen your stock engine then?

[1972BlueC20]

Originally Posted by sprint_9

Why not just rebuild/freshen your stock engine then?

Well, I thought about doing that at first.

One of my heads is cracked at one of the bolt holes, so I'd need to either find some factory used replacement heads and have them redone, or buy some aftermarket heads. Both of which options aren't cheap, and I don't know of a good machine shop in my area that I know I can trust....machine shops can be high too....but just looking into the option of buying 2 new heads, it would be around $700-$1200+ just for heads.

I heard that you really shouldn't put a new top end on a old lower end....not sure if this is true....heard it could cause issues to pop up shortly down the road....heard it's best to rebuild the whole thing if you have it torn down to that point....which again would cost more than a new crate once everything is factored in.

that all being said, i figured that by the time I factor in the cost of buying new heads, new gaskets and my time it was better and would give more satisfaction on the end result to just buy a brand new shiny crate engine with a warranty....

[flashed]

I have a 290 HP crate motor in my wife's 72 Malibu convertible for several years now and probably 70,000 trouble free miles ,love it .
I also have the 260 HP crate motor in my newly restored 72 shortbed fleetside truck and it has all the power I need .

[1972BlueC20]

Originally Posted by flashed

I have a 290 HP crate motor in my wife's 72 Malibu convertible for several years now and probably 70,000 trouble free miles ,love it .
I also have the 260 HP crate motor in my newly restored 72 shortbed fleetside truck and it has all the power I need .

I'm happy to hear that, but I'm just worried since my truck is so much heavier than the malibu that it will not be as good in my application.

I hope I end up as pleased as you! Thanks for the input!

[JointTech]

curb weight on a 72 malibu convertible with a v8 is 3476.
C10 fleetside longbed is 3605.
Guys, these are NOT heavy trucks.... the difference is less than a fat chick in the passenger seat.

[cdowns]

If you run huge 33inch tires and 307 rear gears they are definatly going to b a doggy but common sence and complimentary gears and tires will act great

[So.Cal.Super]

Since Warranty is your strongest point have you tried talking to the Guy's at Scoggin-Dickey in Lubbock? They have a great reputation for their motor's. and you might be able to talk to them about what you want (power) what you need (good Vacuum) and I believe they will cam swap and still maintain factory warranty.

I have had no first hand experience with them, Only word of mouth.

https://sdparts.com/category/crate-engines

Might be worth the Call.

[1972BlueC20]

Originally Posted by JointTech

curb weight on a 72 malibu convertible with a v8 is 3476.
C10 fleetside longbed is 3605.
Guys, these are NOT heavy trucks.... the difference is less than a fat chick in the passenger seat.

Lol

What's the curb weight on my c20? The door says 6700 gvwr

[mechanicalman]

Airspeed has a 4WD, and a good chance he has distributor advance problems.

But still, if you can send it back without costs, I'd do what I already recommended to you and get the 260HP and put in the cam/lifters I recommended appropriate for that engine.

You could use the lifters that come with the engine, I don't believe it has been ran so they would not be broke in yet but the lifters I recommended are the best wear-wise by far.

Then, while the oil pan, valve covers/timing cover are off so you can put some chrome ones on there and a nice 1pc oil pan gasket to ward off the inevitable leak the factory gasket will give you.

Or, just stick with the 260HP and be happy. Remember, it only makes 260HP with headers and a spot-on tune. So, put headers on it.

If you installed a new cam, and IF for any reason other than cam if the engine failed, you could save the original cam/lifters and put back in it before you sent back the core. Easy-pesy.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by 1972BlueC20

Lol

What's the curb weight on my c20? The door says 6700 gvwr

4090 pounds. GM calls it road weight not curb weight.

LockDoc

[1972BlueC20]

so if I'm getting the right number, my truck weighs 3,991 LBS without any passengers.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by 1972BlueC20

so if I'm getting the right number, my truck weighs 3,991 LBS without any passengers.

No. Road weight is shipping weight plus fuel, water, and oil. So if your truck is a 3/4T fleetside with a V-8 road weight is 4090# without passengers.

LockDoc

[67ctener]

I rode in a Monte Carlo with this 290 hp crate motor and was ver impressed. Also my friend has it in his k20

[GoaterAz]

Keep in mind, I have no idea what I'm talking about.

But, from what I gather...that engine is over cammed and struggles down low. That said, I can't imagine it being less powerful than your current 175hp 350.

It doesn't sound like you're asking too much out of the performance, I really don't see how you would be unsatisfied.

[ElKotze]

Well, this is a tough one. I just put a 350 Crate with 260hp in my '68 C10. It has HEI, Headers, Edelbrock Performer Intake and 600cfm Carb and let me tell you: I am very happy. Plenty of power from a stand still, enough torque to spin the tires easily and decent mpg. So if there is a chance that you won't be happy with the 290, why risk it ? Sounds like the 260 will give you exactly what you want. But I understand, there is the hassle of returning the engine.....like I said, a tough one. Hope, I could help a little.

[FirstOwner69]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

No. Road weight is shipping weight plus fuel, water, and oil. So if your truck is a 3/4T fleetside with a V-8 road weight is 4090# without passengers.

LockDoc

I assume that is base V8 w/o options. Right? I'd think A/C alone would add at least 100#.

[LockDoc]

-
I can't help with the performance problem with the 290HP but I bought the 260HP and put it in my Suburban with A 2004r automatic over drive trans and 3.73 gears and was very happy with it.

LockDoc

[EvanSchraub]

I have a 1993 Chevy 350 in mine it is great for me because I can really do a lot of stupid teenager stuff but I understand that more experienced drivers what something faster. My friend has a 400 in his and he bought it from a guy who was hoping toaje a drag truck out of it so it really depends on you. It might be worth the extra to get a 400

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by FirstOwner69

I assume that is base V8 w/o options. Right? I'd think A/C alone would add at least 100#.

The shipping weight is the weight of the vehicle built to factory specifications. It also states that all weights are estimates....

LockDoc

[Coley]

That engine is better suited for a lighter vehicle,....particularly a car. The specs say that it is not recommended for anything over a 6000lb GVW...and would definitely include not being suitable for a 3/4 ton.
Your C20 (3/4 ton) definitely exceeds that 6000lb GVW capability. That said, I think you might be surprised to learn that your 3/4 ton is probably over 4500lbs in its weight. I very highly recommend you run it over a scale somewhere to check and confirm this....you might be surprised.
Many people misunderstand the 'base listed weight' as the weight of their truck. The base weight is usually the base engine (6 cylinder?), standard trans, no power steering, etc, etc.
As an example my 72' 1/2 ton is just slightly over 4000 lbs and it doesn't have anything near as heavy as your running gear, 3/4ton frame, bigger tires, springs, etc. It does has ps/pb/350/a-c...and all this adds weight.
You might be better off, as many have recommended, to get the 260hp and do some bolt on upgrades to get an engine better suited for your truck weight.
My two bits.
Coley

[Coach]

My truck is a 67' C10 Stepside SWB 2wd. I put the same crate 350/290hp engine in my truck about 2 weeks ago. I am very happy with it and if definitely has more power than the 200hp 350 that was in it before that crapped out. It continues to perform better and better as it breaks in. I went with Chevy's recommendation and put on the Chevy Performance aluminum intake/HEI Distributor/Bowtie spark plug wires and the Holley 670 Street Avenger carburetor. The one thing I am going to do is advance the timing from the recommended factory setting. With headers and dual exhaust w/H-pipe to increase the low end, I think you would be very happy with this engine, especially for a daily driver.

[litew8]

You can't go wrong with more HP. If you're that concerned, I'd reject it and get the larger. Doesn't sound like a big deal to reject it and order another if they ensured you that you won't be charged a restocking fee or whatnot. Stock equivalent would be replacing it with the same engine. I'm sure GM engineered the truck to work as designed for many applications.

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by Coley

That engine is better suited for a lighter vehicle,....particularly a car. The specs say that it is not recommended for anything over a 6000lb GVW...and would definitely include not being suitable for a 3/4 ton.
Your C20 (3/4 ton) definitely exceeds that 6000lb GVW capability. That said, I think you might be surprised to learn that your 3/4 ton is probably over 4500lbs in its weight. I very highly recommend you run it over a scale somewhere to check and confirm this....you might be surprised.
Many people misunderstand the 'base listed weight' as the weight of their truck. The base weight is usually the base engine (6 cylinder?), standard trans, no power steering, etc, etc.
As an example my 72' 1/2 ton is just slightly over 4000 lbs and it doesn't have anything near as heavy as your running gear, 3/4ton frame, bigger tires, springs, etc. It does has ps/pb/350/a-c...and all this adds weight.
You might be better off, as many have recommended, to get the 260hp and do some bolt on upgrades to get an engine better suited for your truck weight.
My two bits.
Coley

Well said.

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by 1972BlueC20

Well, I thought about doing that at first.

One of my heads is cracked at one of the bolt holes, so I'd need to either find some factory used replacement heads and have them redone, or buy some aftermarket heads. Both of which options aren't cheap, and I don't know of a good machine shop in my area that I know I can trust....machine shops can be high too....but just looking into the option of buying 2 new heads, it would be around $700-$1200+ just for heads.

I heard that you really shouldn't put a new top end on a old lower end....not sure if this is true....heard it could cause issues to pop up shortly down the road....heard it's best to rebuild the whole thing if you have it torn down to that point....which again would cost more than a new crate once everything is factored in.

that all being said, i figured that by the time I factor in the cost of buying new heads, new gaskets and my time it was better and would give more satisfaction on the end result to just buy a brand new shiny crate engine with a warranty....

Putting new heads on an old short block being a bad idea is an old wife's tale. The bottom end will not degrade just because of good heads. How many miles did you say were on your bottom end? Anything less that 100,000 miles, provided I had no reason to believe anything was wrong, I'd put a new cam, heads, timing chain/gears on it and not worry.

Get some small chamber heads, the cam I recommended and you and your buddies put them and all the other new parts you ordered on your old engine a set of headers, new dual exhaust if you need it and have fun. I'd recommend the 65cc heads for 399.00$ and felpro 1094 head gaskets and a cheap set of new head bolts. You will spend half as much and go twice as fast.

http://www.aeroheadracing.com/chevy.html

ANOTHER OPTION would be to sell the heads off the 290HP and put the 65cc heads on it. THAT would get you LOTS of power and about 9.5:1 compression with steel shim head gaskets. THEN your 290HP cam will work, and work well.