1974 C20 Soon to become a project...

[tucsonjwt]

I don't know if you did your door pins yet, but I recommend OEM GM door pins and bushings only - still available online or at your local GM dealer.

They come in multi packs, so I bought multiple sets equivalent to the pack size and sold the remaining pins/bushings here in the for sale section.

I have a thread on my pin and bushing install if you search for it - might help you find a good source.

Speaking of sources for OEM, I like:

www.oewarehouse.com
www.oehq.com
www.davesauto.com
www.gmpartsdirect.com
www.rockauto.com

Also, search ebay and Amazon once you have the OEM part number.

I have purchased parts from all of these sources and have had no problems.

I have no cherry picker, so I built a short platform out of old 2 x 4 s to support the door bottom when removing and reinstalling the doors - worked good for me.

New pins and bushings made a huge difference on door closing. The power door lock and window wiring had to come out but it was not too much of a hassle.

[UKNOWME]

I must've missed it somewhere but why do you call it BABA YAGA?
BTW I like these paint schemes above better than the Bel Air ones from you other post.

[Super_Dave]

Originally Posted by UKNOWME

I must've missed it somewhere but why do you call it BABA YAGA?
BTW I like these paint schemes above better than the Bel Air ones from you other post.

BABA YAGA comes from the movie John Wick. It's what the Russian mob called John Wick.

As for the paint schemes, I have several months to determine the direction I want to go in. I like the schemes in this thread but I also like the thought of the '56 theme. At some point, one will win out over the other.

[Super_Dave]

tucsonjwt,

I got the pins and bushings from Rock Auto. I haven't done the job yet because I was waiting for my son to assist me. He has since moved, so my wife and I will take a run at it this summer.

Thanks for the link to the vendors. It's nice to know who others use and trust.

[Super_Dave]

I thought I would post a video of BABA YAGA running.

Nice 010 Block 355 SBC. 4/6 static drop this Spring, along with body and paint. Interior after that.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZkYS...ature=youtu.be

[Drizzle]

Sounds really good man

[Super_Dave]

Originally Posted by Drizzle

Sounds really good man

Thanks. We are looking for an inexpensive second bowtie vehicle to run when Baba Yaga is offline. Depending on what we find, we may be doing a second engine build for Baba Yaga and putting the current engine in the second vehicle... All depends what we find.

[midnight rambler]

coming along truck is looking nice

[Super_Dave]

Originally Posted by midnight rambler

coming along truck is looking nice

Thanks.

I have a couple of contracts to fulfill which should generate some discretionary revenue to get on it this Spring. I need to find a Chevy driver to keep me on the road and still be worth keeping after the C20 is back online. Don't need any extra vehicles that don't serve a regular purpose.

[Super_Dave]

Well... I finally have some discretionary income to use on BABA YAGA! However, as usually happens, the wife has other ideas. So, after satisfying most of her wants, I can now start on the long awaited build. If I don't, she will re-purpose all the funds!

With the money pool depleted by more than I would have liked, I am forced to reconsider some of the initial plans, such as the 1979 C10 suspension swap. Keeping the C20 suspension will save me money that can be used elsewhere.

We purchased a low mileage Buick Regal as a fill in vehicle while the truck is off the road. It will eventually take the place of the wife's 215K mile Camry once it bites the dust.

I have the wheels picked out, along with tires. According to my calculations, my current setup (235/85/16) has a total tire/wheel height of 31.73". By going with a set of 18" on all four corners and 245/45/18 tires in front and 285/45/18 tires in the back, I will have a 1.42" rake without any suspension modifications.

The front tires are 9.6" wide and there rears are 11.2" wide. The truck as whole will be lower to the ground but the body and suspension relationship will still be unchanged.

The stock front ride height will drop 5.05" and the stock rear ride height will drop 3.63" just from the reduced sidewall and overall diameter. The plan calls for changing over the wheels ans tires and seeing how much of a change needs to be done to the static drop relative to the chassis and body relationship to get the overall look I want.


Clearly, the rear will need some additional help. By removing the rear overload springs and one leaf from the spring pack, I should get another 1.5". Flipping the axle on top of the stock spring pack will net about 4". So far neither option will cost any money and the frame hasn't been cut. Additional options are lowering shackles and spring hangers.

Once we nail down the mild suspension mods, it goes to the trans shop to have an Art Carr 2004r transmission installed to replace the TH350. Since the 2004r is a bolt in affair and no drive-line shortening is anticipated, the only concern is maintaining the proper pinion angle. The final drive ratio with my 3:73 gears and the 2004r, should give me a 2:50 highway cruising number. Then I won't need a loan to go for a drive farther than the local Post Office.

Next on the list is the body and paint. I have decided to forego the 1974 Belair concept due to finances, and will focus on one of the BABA YAGA! paint schemes.

Lastly is the upholstery and carpet. I have a decent quote for Leather and Tweed and look forward to having the majority done by mid-summer... if all goes as planned and I don't have any more funds re-purposed.

[slotard]

Regarding rake you're looking at tire diameter, it's radius that contributes to ride height so you'll get .71" rake.

How much space do you have between the top of your leaf and your frame rail? The thicker leaf pack and larger tube diameter of the C20 (vs C10) mean that you get more drop from an axle flip. If you're doing the flip anyway, removing the overloads won't do all that much (other than soften the ride).

I'd go for a basic 4L80E rather than a 2004R but the 2004R is an easier swap. On the other hand, if you won't be doing any towing/hauling I imagine it should be ok.

[Super_Dave]

Originally Posted by slotard

Regarding rake you're looking at tire diameter, it's radius that contributes to ride height so you'll get .71" rake.

Good point.

Originally Posted by slotard

How much space do you have between the top of your leaf and your frame rail? The thicker leaf pack and larger tube diameter of the C20 (vs C10) mean that you get more drop from an axle flip.

I have 4.5" from the top of the leaf pack to the bottom of the frame rail and 3.75" from the top of the leaf pack to the top of the axle tube and

Originally Posted by slotard

If you're doing the flip anyway, removing the overloads won't do all that much (other than soften the ride).

Pretty much the biggest reason for taking them off... with or without the flip.

Originally Posted by slotard

I'd go for a basic 4L80E rather than a 2004R but the 2004R is an easier swap. On the other hand, if you won't be doing any towing/hauling I imagine it should be ok.

I will only be using it for hauling occasional sheet goods as a shop truck. The rest will be cruising around town and on the highway as mobile advertising.

[slotard]

14FF axle tubes (that's what my '73 C20 has, so I'll assume you have one too) are 3 3/8" diameter. If you do the axle flip without doing anything else, that leaves 1 1/8" suspension travel (axle to frame distance = leaf to frame - axle diameter) unless you notch it. Add in a softer spring thanks to pulling the overloads and it'll be even less uptravel. You'll need to notch the frame.

[Super_Dave]

Originally Posted by slotard

14FF axle tubes (that's what my '73 C20 has, so I'll assume you have one too) are 3 3/8" diameter. If you do the axle flip without doing anything else, that leaves 1 1/8" suspension travel (axle to frame distance = leaf to frame - axle diameter) unless you notch it. Add in a softer spring thanks to pulling the overloads and it'll be even less uptravel. You'll need to notch the frame.

Having not done a flip, and with new KYB's on all corners, what kind of travel will be needed/recommended for "normal" (subjective, I know...) driving conditions? Trying to determine, if a notch is needed, just how much should I chop... I know the "kits" already have it built in, but thinking my body guy might be able to take a smaller bite out and box the rails...

[slotard]

I don't know, hopefully someone else can help with that. I've never done a flip either. I just know that 1 1/8" (or less with the overloads pulled) uptravel doesn't sound like enough to me.

[Super_Dave]

Today, I finally solved the temp gauge issue with BABA YAGA!'s new heart. I went to my brothers shop where the old heart was and snagged the TU5 temp sending unit from the cylinder head. Back home, I pulled the OEM sender from the new heart and installed the old TU5 sender and viola! No more maxed out Hot as Hades reading. Now, if I have a real temp issue with BABA YAGA! I will know.

[Super_Dave]

Yesterday, I came out to another deader-than-a-door-nail battery. Checked the cells and they were dry as a bone.

The PO had a 6 year old battery in there. Common sense told me to install a new battery, but I wasn't listening. It's amazing how may small issues mysteriously cleared up with a new pacemaker in BABA YAGA!

[Super_Dave]

Yesterday, I did a handshake deal with a specialty trans shop to build and install a 700r4 trans with a no-lock up converter. Called today and the core is on its way. Should be ready for the install around Wednesday next week. If all goes as planned, BABA YAGA! should have an AOD trans and new shoes and soles by Friday next week!

Right after that, a trip to the body and paint doctor to make a game plan and start the face lift... then a new set of threads!

[Super_Dave]

I am looking at some 18x9 eight lug wheels for my BABA YAGA! project. These are the new shoes I am looking to put on BABA YAGA! soon...

I am looking to run 245/45/18's in the front (9.6" tread width) and 285/45/18's in the back (11.2" tread width).

Am I going to have trouble running the 285/45's on a 9" rim in the back? I know the 245/45's in the front will be fine.

[midnight rambler]

Your gonna like the 700r4 had mine done last year

[Super_Dave]

Originally Posted by midnight rambler

Your gonna like the 700r4 had mine done last year

What did you do for the column indicator?

[midnight rambler]

Had a 4 speed so a put the lokar tall shifter on the floor

[Super_Dave]

Originally Posted by midnight rambler

Had a 4 speed so a put the lokar tall shifter on the floor

... cheater....

I need to find a video or tutorial on what's involved in swapping out the 3 speed indicator for a 4 speed in a non-tilt column.

[midnight rambler]

check this out Dave
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/transmi...-shifters-kit/

[Super_Dave]

Ordered the wheels today. Will be in on Tuesday. We are going to try 255/50/20's on the front and 305/50/20's on the rear.

Mocked up some 295/45/20's today and they looked great, but we think we can pull off some 305/50's... for a full 12" out back.

The fronts look like a 3" drop spindle will work just right. The rear flip should get the job done... and if a c-notch is needed, the body work will take care of it. If the 305's need a fraction of clearance, we will try rolling the lip of the fender, otherwise it's the 295/45's.

Looking forward to next week, as a lot of things should be happening in quick succession.

I posted a question on the Electrical forum about how long it takes a shop to install a full harness from American Autowire. One shop says two weeks! I'm thinking a lot less, given they do it everyday and the kit is basically plug-n-play. It seems some shops think because you are dumping a lot of hard earned money into a truck, they need to get in line to milk the cow.