The 66 basement build

[giantofgreen]

Hey all, After a long absence I've come back around to working on my 1966 long bed oiginally 250 3spd 2wd. I belive I am the 4th owner my truck had about 40k miles on it when I bought it from a co-worker who's father had bought it from the original owners family. A few of years ago back when I had time and money I tore the whole thing down Patched the rockers welded up the cab corners and floors (I was maybe 20 at the time so we'll see what it looks like in the spring) sand blasted and primered all but the bed. My high and lofty goal was more of a pro touring build with a flat bed but keeping the bed at original bed height with the wheel wells raised up and out. I had purchased CPP disc conversion with 2in drop spindle with 13in rotor and a mark IV 454. Then as that summer came to and end I was faced with a harsh reality...again. I don't have a garage! Well here I am a few years later with far less and time and a limited budget due to a failure of brand new motor in another project that I'm being reimbursed for. Well as a 25 year old living at home with an old man just as dumb as myself we decided we could just barely fit the whole frame into my dads basement do an entire mock up (minus the can) tear down and rebuild (outdoors this time) all before my wedding this june. Did I say dumb? Maybe crazy would have been better. So here it goes

What I currently have to work with

Chassis. 1966 c15
Motor. mark IV 454 (truck heads)
Transmission. super t-10 aluminum case out of an 81 Camaro
Rear. 14bolt 2.56 or 2.73 out of 95 silverado (out of my old mans truck that was totaled)
Suspension. CPP 2/4in springs and shocks also front end rebuild kit
Brakes front. CPP disc conversion 2in drop spindle kit 13in rotor
Brakes rear. Factory drums for 95 silverado

[giantofgreen]

Years ago

[giantofgreen]

Into the basement

[giantofgreen]

I actually towed the 66 35miles with this little 318 5spd dakota. She's been worked hard but has held up pretty good.

[giantofgreen]

Quick mock up. I bought the tubular style mounts that required notching the frame a bit. i put them on the the front set of holes and am planning on using electric fans to make it all fit.

[giantofgreen]

^^

[giantofgreen]

Minimal tooth wear. Had to stick my original rear under my dads totaled truck for the scrap guys to pick it up but I think it was a good trade

[TJ's Chevy]

Welcome aboard. Good to see ya up and running again.

[giantofgreen]

Cleaned up control arms, new ball joints and 2in drop spindles all put on last night

[giantofgreen]

16x8 american racing wheel. I swiped the surviving three from my dads silverado before it went to the scrap yard after a head on with a Mack truck so I bought one more. Decided to go with 235/60r16 all around the rears are pretty scrawny but it's not a track truck...yet

[giantofgreen]

weld up trailing arms reinforcements on the top of the to do list as it wasn't terribly cold out

[giantofgreen]

little more trailing arm work

[giantofgreen]

a few coats of paint later. also removing the trans support which i'm thinking i may re use with slight modification

[giantofgreen]

leaf spring setup cut off the 14 bolt with a few zip blades and cleaned up with a stone and flap discs

[giantofgreen]

Rear mocked into place no Welding will be done until the full weight of the body and bed is on it

[giantofgreen]

Well I thought Id be slick and cut out the center of the crossmember, bend the whole assembly up, weld it back together and it would all be good... Well I was wrong

[giantofgreen]

I don't know about others but my "Chevelle" headers didn't even come close to fitting. The pic shows after I cut all the primary's at the block and re fit changing the whole angle of how they sweep

[giantofgreen]

In actuality the driver side bolted right up the only complaint I have is front cylinder primary (which is a monstrous 2in) touches the motor mount. Other than that I was happy. The passenger side looked to sit directly on top of the frame rail, now the the layout of these pipes is a bit different someone please correct me if these are NOT Chevelle headers. So after cutting maybe an inch off the back tune and less at the next and less on be next and next it change the angle of the sweep enough to almost get it between the frame and bell housing. I wound up notching out 1/2 an inch of the frame to give it clearance but it looks like it will still need a little more work.


Yes I know I have messed with the tuning of the headers but they were cheap and available

[giantofgreen]

This brings me back to the trans crossmember I thought I could modify but wound up building from Dom tubing and angle

[giantofgreen]

Some pics of the trans crossmember in progress

[giantofgreen]

One

[giantofgreen]

Two

[giantofgreen]

Three

[giantofgreen]

I did need to pick up a new saw to make all of my cuts. For $100 it's not bad