Rear Shocks and Coil Springs, 1970 c10

[Eric1970]

Morning, all.

I have the driver side mounted, with the exception of having the spring tightened up. The spring is set at the top, although needs to move forward on the bottom.

I am considering removing the passenger side wheel as well so I may jack up the rear to seat both springs at once. I have jack stands supporting the frame just past (behind) where the trailing arms meet the frame, and am just a wee bit nervous about removing both rear tires at once.

A friend of mine is convinced I'm missing rubber bushings that help seat the springs, however, I didn't see any on it when I pulled the old springs off. Any truth to the missing bushing theory?

Any tricks or tips would be much appreciated; this is taking me way too long...

[michael bustamante]

no there are no rubber bushings on the either the front or the rear coil spring seat assemblies

[KyleSeal]

No rubber bushings on springs, but I've heard that air hose from a bike tire with keep them from squeaking. That may be what hes referring to.

As far as seating the springs, I just looked at the pics of the stock setup for reference and tried to mimic as much as I could.

[Eric1970]

I got it in- took two hits with a beating block.
The top bolt of the spring is the more difficult to loosen and secure.
After all of the trial and error on the drivers side, the passenger side took me 30-45 minutes to take apart, although I broke the top bolt for the coil spring... Murphy!!!





I've put links to several images here, although they do not appear to be working...

here's a link:
http://s1167.photobucket.com/user/ew0lfe/library/

[Eric1970]

Thought I'd give a quick breakdown of the process for anyone who may be searching this topic:

I ride at stock height and don't regularly carry much of a load, so I used:
Moog CC603 Coil Springs, and
Monroe 37040's
NAPA has branded shocks made by Monroe with the same part numbers for a little less.

I'd recommend Monroe 34944's if you regularly carry loads- do NOT get shocks with helper springs, as they will hit the rear axle and you'll have to move it forward.

1) Place jackstands under frame just to the rear of the vehicle where the trailing arms mount (right before the frame curves up).
2) Place jack under rear.

3) Remove wheel.
4) Remove top nut, locking washer and bolt holding shock in place.
5) Remove bottom nut and locking washer holding shock in place.
6) Remove shock.
7) Remove bottom bolt & seat holding spring in place.
8) Remove top nut, locking washer, bolt & seat holding spring in place (note: this is the most difficult one- nut and locking washer are located above the spring, inside the frame.)
9) Remove coil spring.

10) Put new coil spring in place by securing top nut, locking washer, bolt & seat. Tighter wound coils go to the top. Set in correct place with end of spring in flat part of the seat. The flat part of the seat faces inwards parallel with the edge of the frame. Tighten all the way.
11) Put bottom of shock in place, hand tighten.
12) Put top of shock in place, hand tighten.
13) Put bottom of shock in place. Secure bolt & seat. Hand tighten.
14) Tighten shock all the way.
15) Use jack to very slowly lift the trailing arm and a wooden beating block to tap it into place. Tighten spring all the way.

16) Replace wheel.
17) Lower jack.
18) Go to step #3 and follow procedure for other side.

19) Clean up & drive away.

Note: Always clean all parts before reusing.

Comments and additions welcome. Thanks.

[Eric1970]

Note: Be aware of emergency brake cables on both sides when jacking/ installing jack stands.
Passenger side: Be aware of metal brake line inside frame. Access hole is smaller and closer to front of truck.
Be aware of brake hose when installing passenger side shock- hose goes below the shock, not above it.