bed help

[crazyjim]

I know you need blocks under the bed on the frame,what size and do you put them on all 4 corners.

[mr48chev]

The LMC catalog shows that 54/59 use rubber pads and no blocks . http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/ca/full.aspx?Page=24

You should be able to get those from your favorite truck trinket peddler or possibly make your own out of the sidewall of a junk tire if you figure out the thickness you need.

[Knothead]

They go between bed rails and frame where the bed is bolted the frame.

[crazyjim]

Originally Posted by Knothead

They go between bed rails and frame where the bed is bolted the frame.

I know where they go but what I really like to know is what size they are.thank's jim

[mr48chev]

You shouldn't need wood blocks on the 54 bed with a 54 frame. Blocks are needed on 47/53 trucks to raise the bed up above the kick in the frame over the rear axle but I have my 48 on a 54 frame with the 48 bed and don't think I put blocks in it.

I've never bought the pads to mount my bed because I always cut the sidewall out of a junk tire (worked in a Firestone tire store when I first built the 48 in 1973) cut squares out of it and took my hole punch and punched holes in it but I am Joe Cheap when it comes to spending money on stuff I can make in ten minutes. I even made brake retainer pins for a kid with a Honda who was stranded at the store Friday night and couldn't get them at Autozone.

[oldman3]

Not sure, since you haven't said at this point. But if you are putting a 54 bed (which you have) on a 47-53 frame, the frame will need to be modified for it to fit. Unless you cut into the floor. I put a 54 bed on my 52 frame. I can give you more details if you need them. Dont' want to take over your post. Here's a couple pics...Jim

[crazyjim]

Originally Posted by oldman3

Not sure, since you have said at this point. But if you are putting a 54 bed (which you have) on a 47-53 frame, the frame will need to be modified for it to fit. Unless you cut into the floor. I put a 54 bed on my 50 frame. I can give you more details if you need them. Dont' want to take over your post. Here's a couple pics...Jim

Yes I would love more details, Thanks you for all your help

[crazyjim]

Here's a couple of pic of the problem Im incountering.

[OrrieG]

I would put the fenders on with a couple of bolts so you only have to fix the step issue once. Also, level the frame front to back and side to side with jack stands. I have a bunch of cheap magnetic torpedo levels I keep on the frame and what ever I am trying to fit to make sure things stay level.

[oldman3]

Jim and Raf, got your PM's and will post up what I did with mine. Need to get pics and write up ready, give me a day or two...Jim

[crazyjim]

Originally Posted by oldman3

Jim and Raf, got your PM's and will post up what I did with mine. Need to get pics and write up ready, give me a day or two...Jim

no problem thanks

[oldman3]

Ok guys and gals, I think I have enough info and pics to get this thing started. I may be giving you more info than you need, but it may help someone else with bed issues.

Most of my information come from "Bed Restoration Manual for Early Chevrolet and GMC pickup trucks" that was purchased from Classicparts.com for around $5.00 (Part #16-001).

1/2 Ton step side beds:

1937 bed was 15" high, 46" wide and 77" long.
1940 width changed to 48-1/2" wide, height and length unchanged.
1947 widened again, now up to 50" wide, height and length unchanged.
1954 still another change, depth now 17" with flat top rails, width and length unchanged.
The 54 step side bed size remained the same up thru 1987.

1947-51 beds had 9 boards
1952-53 beds had 8 boards
1954 beds had 8 boards

On 1947-53 beds the front panel is attached to the front cross sill.
1954 beds, the front panel and cross sill are separate.

[oldman3]

In these two pics from the manual it tells about the front cross sill, I know it's hard to read, so I will type out the important part. It tells that there is a 12" long by 3/8" carriage bolt. "The placement of the front or #1 cross sill is easily located. Not only is it bolted to the front bed panel on the 1947-53 model but also will be directly above the two 1/2 inch factory holes in the vehicle frame. This allows for the 12 inch long 3/8 inch carriage bolts to go here. These two longest bed to frame bolts on 1947-53 go through the bed wood, cross sill, 2 inch supporting bed block, bed block pad and vehicle frame. Due to parts of emergency brake being in this area, they are the only bed to frame bolts that must go through both top and bottom of vehicle frame. The front cross sill b ed to frame bolts a 7 inches long on 1946 and older, and 4 inches on 1954 and newer."

This is one of the things that I keep on my change to a 54 bed to the 47-53 frame was the 12 inch bolt.

[oldman3]

Couple more notes on the bed:

"In 1954, a deeper step side bed was introduced. Its supporting cross sills are slightly higher and side on the vehicle frame rails without bed blocks. The top of the bed sides are at right angle to the ground. The 1953 and older pickups have the top of the bed sides tapered or sloped upward to the outside."

These are the materials I used to put my 54 bed on my 52 frame. All of these were ordered thru Classicparts.com. You can also get the same stuff thru LMC.

54-59 bed wood part #07-119
47-53 bed to frame bolt kit which has the 12" long bolt that goes thru the entire frame part #08-611 (stainless steel)
54-72 bed cross sills part # 13-015H (taller)
54-87 bed mounting pads part #13-555

Now with all this knowledge, lets change the frame to work with the 54 bed.

[oldman3]

I agree with OrrieG to level the frame front to back and side to side. You will end up with a nice level bed to frame that way.

I did much like crazyjim did with his bed in post #8 above, and removed all the old wood. Left the cross sills and set it over the frame. At this point I had removed the splash aprons from the running boards. Running boards were attached to brackets from frame. I then installed my fenders to the bed, to match them up to the r4ear part of running boards. At that point I used different spacers, shims, etc., to get the bed and fenders to match the running boards. Once I was aligned with the running board holes to fender, I went around and installed the same size shims (or blocks) with the rubber pads to level the bed. (I have pics of my final stuff I will show later). Once this was done, you can check the bed side rail to the frame, add thickness of wood boards, give yourself about another 1/2" clearance and mark your frame were it needs to be cut. Mine worked out that if I put a 2" X 2" angle iron piece on the inside of frame at the hump it would work. I leveled that piece and tacked in place, cut the frame with a cut-off wheel, heated the ends and bent down to the angle iron and welded everything up solid. See the attached 3 pics.

[oldman3]

Then I lifted the bed up, installed a couple pieces of wood boards, along with cross sills and set it back down in place (similar to this, but not as may boards)
Pic 1. I installed bolts at the rear cross sill (pic 2) and the one in front of that one. At this point I checked the front holes and it was off about 1", this is because the front panel and front cross sill are not attached as was the 47-53 were. I chose to drill a new hole thru the top of frame, triangle piece and the bottom of frame to install the 12" carriage bolt. In pic 3 the red circle is showing the original hole thru top of frame, triangle piece and bottom of frame.
Don't have any pics showing this when I did it, never thought I would have to explain it to someone..Jim

[oldman3]

This is an old frame I have, Pic 1 here I'm showing a pry bar going thru the bottom of frame.

Pic 2 here it's coming thru the top of frame and into the cross sill

Pic 3 another view

Pic 4 Here you can see how the front panel and crossmember are together on the 47-53 bed.

[oldman3]

This pic is the front of my bed. Here you can see the front row (red lines) attach the front panel, bed strips, boards all together.

In the second row (yellow lines) is where the cross sill is located and has carriage bolts that hold the bed strip, boards, cross sill all together. The carriage bolt with the off-set washer goes thru the boards, cross sill and frame.

[oldman3]

Now we're under my truck, excuse the dirt.

Pic 1 here the bolt comes from the top, thru the wood board, crossmember, wood block and rubber pad.

Pic 2 Here the bolt continues thru top of frame and bottom of frame, with lock washer and nut

Pic 3 another view.

Pic 4 close up of the two holes, my new hole is approx 1" behind the original hole.

[oldman3]

Back to the top side of my bed.

Pic 1 These are the other two bed to frame hold downs. The top one the carriage bolts go thru the strip, board, cross still and ties it together. The off set washer carriage bolt goes thru the wood board, #3 cross sill, wood spacer, rubber pad and top of frame.

The back one goes thru wood board, rear cross sill, wood spacer, rubber pad and top of frame.

Pic 2 This is from underneath #3 cross sill, wood spacer, rubber pad and top of frame.

Pic 3 Not a good shot, but you can see the lock washer and nut below frame.

Pic 4 This is where it goes thru the rear cross sill, spacer, rubber and frame.

[oldman3]

Jim to answer another of your questions. My spacer and rubber pad are approximately 3/4" thick, at all 6 bed thur frame mounting points. I used some old wood I had around that was the right size. Yours may be different, but you will not need the 2 or 2-1/4" wood blocks. See pic.

[oldman3]

Another question I know will pop up is clearance between modified frame and bed wood. It is at least 1/2" or better see pic.

[oldman3]

Jim, I need to find a couple pics and show you what I did for the splash apron between bed and running boards. Been sitting in this chair for over 2 hours posting and my BUTT is sore. Will post tomorrow...Jim

[crazyjim]

Originally Posted by oldman3

Jim, I need to find a couple pics and show you what I did for the splash apron between bed and running boards. Been sitting in this chair for over 2 hours posting and my BUTT is sore. Will post tomorrow...Jim

Thank's jim the pics helps a lot.

[oldman3]

Originally Posted by crazyjim

Thank's jim the pics helps a lot.

Glad it helped...Jim