Whats this part? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

BurnoutNova · 03-03-2004, 12:22 AM

i just bought my truck...and noticed when i go down the road, the steering wheel has to much play. first i think... sloppy gearbox, but no...its been replaced like a month ago. the i look underneath. the slop is from the "big" tie rod connecting the steering arm to the spindle, on the drivers side. whats it called? i think it need replaced, i did grease it when i was down there, and it did get better, but its still to sloppy. another question, whe i get the new one on...will it need an alighnment? i know it would if i did tie rods but i think those are good for right now.

thanks, zach

**kwmech** · 03-03-2004, 12:32 AM

I think what you may be referring to is the drag link assy. The ends are available at your local auto parts store. Alignment may not be neccesary unless you think there may be more problems to attend to.

*1tonswb* · 03-03-2004, 01:01 AM

Are talkin about the ball joint?

BurnoutNova · 03-03-2004, 01:11 AM

drag link sounds right...i'll check into it. also would a front end stabilizer help? or are they just for bigger tire/lift combos? i just want to make it handle a bit better.

MAC67 · 03-03-2004, 03:37 AM

yup its the drag link , you can get new ends and a new adjusting sleeve for around 35 bucks if you go the cheap parts route , if its name brand its gonna get expensive , i used the cheap brand and they are just fine

**JIMs70GMC** · 03-03-2004, 07:41 AM

Just replaced them on my 71. Parts cost me just over $41, I replaced both ends. I'll take a pic later today for confirmation.

smokekiki · 03-03-2004, 10:42 AM

A front end stabilizer will not help the problem,it might hide it for a while.

leadfoot067 · 03-03-2004, 05:56 PM

the other thing to look for on these trucks is the drivers side upper ball joint....the factory steering setup puts alot of stress on it...jack up the truck and grab the tire at the top and bottom,and try to move the top of the tire in and out...

BurnoutNova · 03-04-2004, 02:55 AM

well today i bought 2 new "drag link ends" and installed them. very easy. took less than 30 min. total, i expected it to be harder since theres plenty of rust bolts down there.

i test drove it and it is alot better, but still is a little loose. i think it needs a whole front end kit.

i knew the stabilizer wouldnt fix the probleom, but wondered if it would improve the overall handling... even if all the front end parts were in good shape. i drive it everyday and have to fight idiots who swerve in front of me, and wanted the best ride possible.

**JIMs70GMC** · 03-04-2004, 07:48 AM

Zach, sounds like you have a bad ball joint. Also check your tie rod ends.

Blue Beard · 03-04-2004, 09:34 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by JIMs70GMC
Just replaced them on my 71. Parts cost me just over $41, I replaced both ends. I'll take a pic later today for confirmation.

Where did you buy yours....?

ALBATROSS · 03-04-2004, 11:11 PM

I'm not saying that this is your problem since you seem to have figured it out. On the top of your steering box there is a nut with a allen bolt in it. My steering was loose and a mechanic buddy of mine said to loosen the nut and tighten the allen a little and the re tighten the nut. You might have to experiment with it, I tightened it too much the first time and the steering was too tight so I backed it off a little and it seemed to work pretty good. But I would have to agree with the others sounds like a bad ball joint.

85 K5 · 03-05-2004, 08:54 PM

For my 85 calls for 185 ft/lbs torque. If tightened with just a ratchet you'd be surprised how much "wander" you will lhave. I refuse to discuss how I know this.

714x4lover · 03-06-2004, 06:57 PM

I HAVE A 4X4 71 3/4 TON AND I HAVE THE SAME F@#%ING PROBLEM THATS GOT ME AT MY WITS END. IVE CHANGED MY TIE ROD ENDS ,UPPER AND LOWER BALL JOINTS BOTH SIDES, IVE REBUILT THE STEERING GEAR BOX, STEERING PUMP, MINE IS LIFTED SO IVE DONE THE LIFTED STEERING ARM DRAG LINK ENDS, IVE PUT A NEW STABLEIZER SHOCK, HAD IT ALINGED, PUT NEW PADS, CALIPERS, HAD THE ROTORS TURNED, GOSH DID I MISS ANYTHING? ANYWAYS MINE DOES THE SAME DAM THING, BUT MAYBE WORSE! WEIRED HUH? I CAN GRAB HOLD OF MY STEERING WHEEL AND JUST SPIN IT DOWN AND IT JUST GOES ROUND AND ROUND LIKE THE WHEEL ISNT EVEN CONNECTED TO ANYTHING, WHEN I GO DOWN THE ROAD ITS ALL OVER THE ROAD IF SOME ONE PULLS IN FRONT OF ME AND I HAVE TO BREAK FAST IT GOES NUTS AND SHOOTS TO THE RIGHT, MAN ITS GETTING TO THE POINT THAT IM SCARED TO DRIVE IT ANY MORE. EVERY WHERE I TAKE IT THAY SAY THE TOE IS RIGHT, THE LOCK NUT AND ALLEN HEAD ON TOP OF THE GEAR BOX HAS BEEN ADJUSTED, I JUST DONT KNOW WHAT TO DO ANYMORE, CAN ANYONE THAT WENT THROUGH THIS PROBLEM HELP ME, ANYWAY I THINK YOUR PROBLEM IS YOUR WORM GEAR IN SIDE YOUR GEAR BOX, I HAVE ALSO HEARD THAT IF I USE A GEARBOX FROM A 73 AND UP GEARBOX. THAT MIGHT HELP, I JUST WISH I CAN FIND THE RIGHT PROBLEM CAUSE IVE PUT A HELL OF ALOT OF MONEY IN THE FRONT END AND ITS STILL NOT RIGHT. HELP!!!

**JIMs70GMC** · 03-06-2004, 09:41 PM

Blue Beard, autozone.

85 K5 · 03-08-2004, 10:21 AM

I've read it's hard to rebuild a gearbox and get it right. I am strongly considering getting one from PSC. pscpowersteer.com
I've read enough about AGR to stay away from them.

03-03-2004, 12:22 AM	#1
BurnoutNova Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: CA Posts: 2,057	Whats this part? i just bought my truck...and noticed when i go down the road, the steering wheel has to much play. first i think... sloppy gearbox, but no...its been replaced like a month ago. the i look underneath. the slop is from the "big" tie rod connecting the steering arm to the spindle, on the drivers side. whats it called? i think it need replaced, i did grease it when i was down there, and it did get better, but its still to sloppy. another question, whe i get the new one on...will it need an alighnment? i know it would if i did tie rods but i think those are good for right now. thanks, zach

03-03-2004, 07:41 AM	#6
JIMs70GMC user # 2756 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia Posts: 4,612	Just replaced them on my 71. Parts cost me just over $41, I replaced both ends. I'll take a pic later today for confirmation. __________________ 1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm

03-03-2004, 10:42 AM	#7
smokekiki Mike Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: west chester pa Posts: 2,474	A front end stabilizer will not help the problem,it might hide it for a while. __________________ 70'c/10, 71 suburban4x4 402bb, 72suburban 4/6 drop, 72k/5 4x4 blazer 4" lift 35 tires

03-03-2004, 05:56 PM	#8
leadfoot067 horsepower junkie Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: graham, washington Posts: 326	the other thing to look for on these trucks is the drivers side upper ball joint....the factory steering setup puts alot of stress on it...jack up the truck and grab the tire at the top and bottom,and try to move the top of the tire in and out... __________________ 67 short wide box,350/700r4/3.73posi 71 olds cutlass "S" mom bought new..12.30s@113MPH

03-04-2004, 07:48 AM	#10
JIMs70GMC user # 2756 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia Posts: 4,612	Zach, sounds like you have a bad ball joint. Also check your tie rod ends. __________________ 1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm

03-03-2004, 12:32 AM	#2
kwmech Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Colfax-California Posts: 8,473	I think what you may be referring to is the drag link assy. The ends are available at your local auto parts store. Alignment may not be neccesary unless you think there may be more problems to attend to.

03-03-2004, 01:01 AM	#3
1tonswb Account Suspended Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Oregon Posts: 300	Are talkin about the ball joint?

03-03-2004, 01:11 AM	#4
BurnoutNova Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: CA Posts: 2,057	drag link sounds right...i'll check into it. also would a front end stabilizer help? or are they just for bigger tire/lift combos? i just want to make it handle a bit better.

03-03-2004, 03:37 AM	#5
MAC67 " SHOW ME" Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: shelbyville illinois Posts: 2,624	yup its the drag link , you can get new ends and a new adjusting sleeve for around 35 bucks if you go the cheap parts route , if its name brand its gonna get expensive , i used the cheap brand and they are just fine

03-04-2004, 02:55 AM	#9
BurnoutNova Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: CA Posts: 2,057	well today i bought 2 new "drag link ends" and installed them. very easy. took less than 30 min. total, i expected it to be harder since theres plenty of rust bolts down there. i test drove it and it is alot better, but still is a little loose. i think it needs a whole front end kit. i knew the stabilizer wouldnt fix the probleom, but wondered if it would improve the overall handling... even if all the front end parts were in good shape. i drive it everyday and have to fight idiots who swerve in front of me, and wanted the best ride possible.

03-04-2004, 11:11 PM	#12
ALBATROSS Registered User Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Redway,Ca Posts: 30	I'm not saying that this is your problem since you seem to have figured it out. On the top of your steering box there is a nut with a allen bolt in it. My steering was loose and a mechanic buddy of mine said to loosen the nut and tighten the allen a little and the re tighten the nut. You might have to experiment with it, I tightened it too much the first time and the steering was too tight so I backed it off a little and it seemed to work pretty good. But I would have to agree with the others sounds like a bad ball joint.

03-05-2004, 08:54 PM	#13
85 K5 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Spring TX Posts: 113	Pitman arm bolt For my 85 calls for 185 ft/lbs torque. If tightened with just a ratchet you'd be surprised how much "wander" you will lhave. I refuse to discuss how I know this. __________________ 350 Crate 10 bolt 3.73 2.5 lift 32x11.50 1904 Edelbrock http://www.oplnk.net/~spirit/K5front.jpg

03-06-2004, 06:57 PM	#14
714x4lover Registered User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Show Low, Arizona Posts: 211	loose steering I HAVE A 4X4 71 3/4 TON AND I HAVE THE SAME F@#%ING PROBLEM THATS GOT ME AT MY WITS END. IVE CHANGED MY TIE ROD ENDS ,UPPER AND LOWER BALL JOINTS BOTH SIDES, IVE REBUILT THE STEERING GEAR BOX, STEERING PUMP, MINE IS LIFTED SO IVE DONE THE LIFTED STEERING ARM DRAG LINK ENDS, IVE PUT A NEW STABLEIZER SHOCK, HAD IT ALINGED, PUT NEW PADS, CALIPERS, HAD THE ROTORS TURNED, GOSH DID I MISS ANYTHING? ANYWAYS MINE DOES THE SAME DAM THING, BUT MAYBE WORSE! WEIRED HUH? I CAN GRAB HOLD OF MY STEERING WHEEL AND JUST SPIN IT DOWN AND IT JUST GOES ROUND AND ROUND LIKE THE WHEEL ISNT EVEN CONNECTED TO ANYTHING, WHEN I GO DOWN THE ROAD ITS ALL OVER THE ROAD IF SOME ONE PULLS IN FRONT OF ME AND I HAVE TO BREAK FAST IT GOES NUTS AND SHOOTS TO THE RIGHT, MAN ITS GETTING TO THE POINT THAT IM SCARED TO DRIVE IT ANY MORE. EVERY WHERE I TAKE IT THAY SAY THE TOE IS RIGHT, THE LOCK NUT AND ALLEN HEAD ON TOP OF THE GEAR BOX HAS BEEN ADJUSTED, I JUST DONT KNOW WHAT TO DO ANYMORE, CAN ANYONE THAT WENT THROUGH THIS PROBLEM HELP ME, ANYWAY I THINK YOUR PROBLEM IS YOUR WORM GEAR IN SIDE YOUR GEAR BOX, I HAVE ALSO HEARD THAT IF I USE A GEARBOX FROM A 73 AND UP GEARBOX. THAT MIGHT HELP, I JUST WISH I CAN FIND THE RIGHT PROBLEM CAUSE IVE PUT A HELL OF ALOT OF MONEY IN THE FRONT END AND ITS STILL NOT RIGHT. HELP!!!

03-06-2004, 09:41 PM	#15
JIMs70GMC user # 2756 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia Posts: 4,612	Blue Beard, autozone. __________________ 1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm

03-08-2004, 10:21 AM	#16
85 K5 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Spring TX Posts: 113	I've read it's hard to rebuild a gearbox and get it right. I am strongly considering getting one from PSC. pscpowersteer.com I've read enough about AGR to stay away from them. __________________ 350 Crate 10 bolt 3.73 2.5 lift 32x11.50 1904 Edelbrock http://www.oplnk.net/~spirit/K5front.jpg



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