Drag Racing Suspension

[Aztec.A]

Any one doing a 67-72 in drag racing trim?

I'm trying to figure out what direction I want to go with my build.

I can't really find much doing a search for our trucks specfically. I do find sites that sell 4 links, yada yada.

I called a few speed shops in town and they're either major tools or don't do this kinda work.

I'll be doing the installation and modification myself.

I would like everyone's input on their experience, recommendations, etc.

What works for you? Please feel free to share pics if you got em.

I'd like to build a 10 second truck. I have a 72 c20 and it's a blank piece of canvas.

Overall I need to narrow down my build type, budget it out, and stick with the plan.

I love drag racing, I love road racing, and the bagged movement is really growing on me.

Thanks guys....

[jocko]

If you love drag racing, and I do too, I would not start with a C20. You'll spend 75% of your budget overcoming power/weight ratio to even be remotely competitive. Make it your hauler/tow vehicle and grab a nova. Yes, there is the infamous "farm truck" you see on tv and youtube - but, no offense to anyone running such a setup, but it seems like a lot of money to spend just to be different. If you really want to go racing, a C20 isn't a good starting point. If you wanted to build an air-ride road racer, a swb C10 is the starting point for a truck, again, not a C20. Of course there are exceptions - but that's why they are "exceptions."

On the other hand, if your heart is set on it. Stick a big block in it, a higher stall converter, and see what breaks first - then go from there.

As for experience, since you asked... MY first car and build ever was a 57 bel air. I had the EXACT same mindset you have now. I wanted a drag car. I wanted to be able to barely make it to the strip legally, uncork the headers and get sideways - yep, 'ol "Jungle Jocko".... So, I stuffed a huge cam, tunnel ram, dual holleys, and pretty much every dime I made into it between the age of 15 and 27. It actually ran, and ran well - homework paid off. Just not literally. Including the price of the car (a hefty $2500 back in the day), I had at least $13k wrapped up in my hot rod. I joined the service, it sat in my pop's garage for 10 years, and I sold it out of guilt when he retired because I was hogging all his garage space (for $3800, and I'll never forget that day.. Even my mom cried - and, worst of all, the guy who bought it was what I would become in the next 20 years - some guy whose first car was a 57 bel air that regretted selling his first car! Ha). So, the experience moral of the story - make sure your plan is realistic - and see it through. Much easier said than done when it comes to drag cars. If you don't live every second for it, it's a touch investment to make. And if you want to still drive your truck off the track, then everything you mod will be a compromise between drivability and reduced ET. My lesson learned was to get the solid driver first, enjoy it, build a drag care later when you have the resources to devote to it. And you may already be at that point (I wasn't) - and, if so, and this is your dream truck, well, I cannot wait to see what you do with it. Will be fun to watch your progress. Man, I sound like my Dad did when I yanked the motor out of that 57... Sorry!

[hugger6933]

Drag truck is an oxymoron. I love trucks and I love drag racing I used to have a lot of it. I am about to advise you for something I didn't listen to, start out with something a little lighter and more likely to transfer better. I had a Chevelle that only made street duty for a very short time. The police would follow me through town every time I started the car, they loved my first "street car converter" it was a 4500 with a stout big block and a glide. BUT the car was #3760 with me in it. If it had been #2900 it would have been stupid fast instead of crazy fast. It would hook your truck well it will take lots of work to get in the 1.28 short time[see I mean that car would hook]with a truck and mega dollars. Use that money to get something lighter and more likely to hook easier and you will be happier and money
ahead.

Now don't get me wrong you can make it hook and have a big old drag truck but the money it would take to go say11.50 you could put in something lighter and be at 10.00
For every one hundred pounds is a tenth of a second. point blank flat truth. Good luck. Enjoy. Jim

[Aztec.A]

Thanks for your input Jocko and Hugger. I got my truck pretty cheap, I'm going to change the rear axle and suspension regardless. Front end suspension is slightly modified, just running 73 drop spindles and stock brakes. To do a short bed conversion is fairly simple and I have a c10 long bed frame to shorten that was free. I already planned on buying a new short bed kit for it.

I have access to a 5.3l LS and was considering doing a single turbo set up. Lotta power to be made. Yes the truck is heavy. It's a brick, I like that about it. I'm def not thinking about making it an 9 sec truck, but I'd like some decent power.

My protouring build is stupid expensive and about the same in cost with an air ride kit equipped with front and rear drop members.

I've had a 1963 Chevy II Nova 2 door SS in the past. I had a 1969 2door as well. I just wasn't crazy about a unit body frame and doing all kinds of frame connectors and back halfing the ass end. It seemed like more work whe I did it. Plus I'm a big tall guy so I have plenty of room in my truck.

Im just curious how this set up stacks to my other two build ideas.

[GASoline71]

http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...splay.php?f=60

A whole forum here related to drag trucks.

Gary

[Heavymetl]

5.3 and a turbo will loaf to 11.40's in a C10 short wheel base.

I've been 11.44@118.69 on a 1.62 60' with a 3.25 gear, 10 psi at 4100lbs.
The C20 makes it tougher due to weight, but don't doubt the miracles a turbo can work for acceleration.

Here's a video last year of my 2nd trip to the track.

http://youtu.be/8DCkwtT71E0

[Aztec.A]

Thanks Gasoline and Heavy, it's good to know that information on the Unsprung,squat, etc.

Your truck is bad ass Heavy. I almost thought you had 3 on the tree until o saw the gear shift indicator lol.

I have an SBC with 3 on the tree.

The rear diff is an Eaton unit, the rest is the same or similar to a c10 long bed outback. I do have the rear fuel tank out back.

Front control arms, spindles, etc are different. Other than that it's basically a C10 with heavy duty suspension.

I'm more interested in what set up is ran for the rear. 4 link? Cantilever or watts link too?

[The Chainsaw]

My uncles C10 has been in the 1.50's in the 60' with a mild nitrous sbc with stock trailing arm suspension. Just get a decent shock and it will do pretty well.

[Heavymetl]

I just have ECE trailing arms and the shocks they supplied with their lowering kit. 275/60/15 drag radial. I primarily street drive the truck, so I don't plan on changing up the rear suspension at all. It's a Moser 9" with a Grizzly locker. The clutch type posi died quickly with power under boost and sticky tires.

[special-K]

I built a pro-street shortbed out of a '70 C/20 in the early-90s. Never got to put it on the track before I sold it. It came together pretty easily. But, I didn't do the hard stuff myself. I have a guy on my road who does race car chassis, roll bar, and back-half out of his garage. Since you cut the frame off anyway, a longbed is a fine candidate. 4-link/coil-over and narrowed Dana 60 5-lug built by Mark Williams. The truck was a Stepside, so it was easy to shorten the bed. Front suspension was stock lowered with spindles/springs.