454 build help

[Bwright2258]

I recently purchased a 454 for $100 so I took a chance on it, I'm getting help from my local machine shop but would like some opinions from some of the guys on here. My goal is to get over 600hp from the engine and then spray 200 with nitrous, since I've dropped it off at the machine shop they've gotten it ready for the rebuild and installed splayed mains and bored to .70 over.
I plan on going with a eagle cast 496 crank but that's where you guys come in as this is my first engine build, my machinist recommended Brodix heads but I'm open to others, I'd like to be able to drive this as a street truck with more low end rather than a high rpm drag truck but it will see the strip from time to time, as for the cam it can be roudy as it won't be my daily just so long as it will idle and make it back and forth to the car shows, I know this is fairly vague just looking for a good combo on heads and cam and Pistons that will work with the heads and my .70 over, thanks in advance and feel free to ask tons of questions, just wanting to learn

[haysonj]

I have only built two 454's so I'm no expert but no good machinist would bore a block without having the pistons in his hand. As for the cast crank I would go with a forged crank and forged pistons if you are going to boast it or use nitrous. Hot Rod magazine built a 509 from a 454 block to 845 HP a few years back and it cost $36,000 in parts and labor. Also your .070 pistons will be harder to find then if you had just went .060 over.

[Marv D]

I will agree,, and disagree with haysonj. With a budget piston YES, you better have the piston in hand and measure EACH piston to make the piston to wall clearance for EACH bore. But with more upper end pistons JE, Arias, Diamond etc,, they are all exact to the 4th place and you can prep the block knowing what piston and what the manufacturer dictates for piston-to-wall clearance. AND just because a piston is expensive,, doesn't always mean it's tooled to exacting spec. I bought a set of $700 Mahle pistons that ONE was almost 0.0007 under for no explicable reason. When S$#!+ like this hapens, you send the box back and get pistons that are right.

That said.... 600+HP n/a and mostly street driven driven from a carburated big block is not going to be a street / cruiser friendly motor. To make that 600 from 496 your going to need compression higher than pump gas will tolerate. i can tell you from experience it gets old REAL FAST buying barrels of $12 a gallon fuel to drive to the store and buy a 99¢ loaf of bread. I'm not saying 600 on pump gas isn't possible, just it will not be a mild cruiser happy motor in n/a carburated form.

If you seriously want 600 and street derivable, I'd HIGHLY suggest you think about a turbo motor. They can be unbelievable street friendly and have power on demand.

Brodix makes a very nice head SBC or BBC. There are MANY different flavors. Choose wisely.

For the street bound 496 one of the 'go to heads for many is the AFR 315 or 325cc rectangular port head. it's not a full on race head like the Brodix 12 and 15° stuff, but the pricetag and valve train is way more friendly than the odd valve angle stuff.

In the end its your hard earned $,, just research and choose wisely is all I can offer,

[GRX]

x2 on not being very street friendly at those power levels. Don't forget you will need to upgrade the drive train as well.

In addition to the previous piston comments, a good machinist would bore that .067 over and need to know what type rings you will be running to properly hone it the final .003.

At this point you are probably considering what crank, rods, and bearings to use.

[truckdude239]

i dont like machine shops that go right to a .70 or .80 bore

[Bwright2258]

Thanks to everyone who replied, yes he is boring and then honing to exact specs when we choose a piston, and I understand the driveability issues but as this is not my daily it can really be as rough around town as it would like, my main concern is finding a set of forged pistons that you guys would recommend, thanks again, great help on this site
Posted via Mobile Device

[ptc]

Go check out and CALL the suppliers for what you want. They will set you up with what you exactly need. Dont just buy a part number off the internet, it will mess up your build I can guarantee it!

Check out SRP/JE here:
http://www.srp.com/

Check out Diamond here:
http://www.diamondracing.net/

Pump gas 600hp is totally possible and street worthy!

Ive got a 700+HP dual quad tunnel ram 496 that is turn key ready everytime I take it out and it purrs like a kitten at idle with a 700+ lift solid flat tap cam. 10.5:1 CR with Iron 990 heads (have been worked) and runs on 93 octane all day long. But when I put some 110 in it.... it really wakes it up!

https://youtu.be/wi1kLIyw5_U

[Bwright2258]

Originally Posted by ptc

Go check out and CALL the suppliers for what you want. They will set you up with what you exactly need. Dont just buy a part number off the internet, it will mess up your build I can guarantee it!

Check out SRP/JE here:
http://www.srp.com/

Check out Diamond here:
http://www.diamondracing.net/

Pump gas 600hp is totally possible and street worthy!

Ive got a 700+HP dual quad tunnel ram 496 that is turn key ready everytime I take it out and it purrs like a kitten at idle with a 700+ lift solid flat tap cam. 10.5:1 CR with Iron 990 heads (have been worked) and runs on 93 octane all day long. But when I put some 110 in it.... it really wakes it up!

https://youtu.be/wi1kLIyw5_U

Man now thats what I like to hear, going for the same compression ratio to make mine run on pump
Posted via Mobile Device

[68post]

Here's a great price on a very good book to learn more about BBC power and longevity.
Build it super strong now for your want for more power later.

http://www.barnesandnoble.com/p/chev...lickid=3x24151