t5 trans help 235

[billrobbobjo]

I pulled a t5 out of an S10 started to swap it, I have a problem of the clutch isnt working. I tried to adjust it via the linkage, I thought I could use the old throw out with the clutch that came with the s10, it was about 1 inch to maybe 3/4 inch smaller than the one I had pulled out from the truck. When i hooked it back up i pushed the clutch in and it felt like just a spring. so i tightened it now it feels like its pushing on the clutch, but still doesnt disengage it. It also doesnt feel smooth. Any tips? So i have the 235 with the s10 clutch the 235 pressureplate, with the 1957 throw out bearing with the fork, I had an extra clutch linkage system, so i tried cutting it and shorting it by about an inch 1/2 which made it go from a spring feeling to feeling like it was going to work but still doesnt disengage it.
Thanks

[Wrenchbender Ret]

You have to grind the splines on the trans. input shaft back about 1/2 in. The disk hangs up on the splines & won't release.

[billrobbobjo]

Ok so When i was looking at that online people where saying the cut the imput shaft. I cut the shaft about an inch back but not on the splines part. Just the end that fits into the little pilot bearing part. And i also cut the outter shell shaft that the shaft rides in because it hit the clutch disk and the tranny wouldnt go in at first. So I need to cut more off the input shaft?
Anyone got pictures of this?

[mongocanfly]

Maybe???..http://mongosgarage.com/tech/t5/index.htm

[billrobbobjo]

Ya I cut mine like that. Do you maybe think its because I need to get a bigger clutch disk my old one was a bit bigger? there for the small one doesnt move enough or something when u push the clutch in?

[mongocanfly]

Another...http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=644565..lugnutz has a t5 page listed in this one..

[MiraclePieCo]

When installing an S10 T5 I had to trim the input shaft end off and grind the throwout bearing shaft tube back, both about 1 inch. You say you did that.
I also used the original smaller clutch disc - I forget the size (maybe 9-1/2"?) so that's probably not your problem.

[billrobbobjo]

Okay, Im thinking maybe i didnt quite cut the tube back enough, I did do it about an inch. because the forms i read it said about 7/8 of an inch. Today i will get back under her and see what i can figure out.

[chevyguyase]

I used my original pressure plate, flywheel and throw out bearing. I cut very little off of the pilot bearing portion of the input shaft and about 3/4 inch off of the bearing retainer ( the piece that the throw out bearing rides on) my truck had a granny gear 4 speed in it and an 11 inch clutch so I used an Astro van 14 spline 11 inch clutch disk. I machined the clutch disk to clear the input shaft splines rather than mess with the shaft splines. Put your trans in your bell housing with only the disk on the shaft and tighten up the 4 trans mounting bolts, you should be able to turn the input shaft and disk by hand. You will probably find that your input shaft is forcing the disk up against the flywheel and will not disengage. They sell an adapter plate for this but you have already cut your shaft and I prefer doing the machine work.

[mr48chev]

This comes from the member who sells the adapter brackets for six cylinders on Ebay
9 gauge plate that spaces the t-5 back just enough so the disk doesn't bind on the splines. http://www.ebay.com/itm/10017-T5-SPA...Uny6DQ&vxp=mtr

[Wrenchbender Ret]

The small disc will work fine with a 6 cyl. Remove the brg. retainer/collor. Slide the disc on the splines of the input shaft till it stops. Mark the position of the disc on the shaft with a grind mark or magic marker. With a cutoff wheel or Dremel tool grind the spines deeper so the disc will slide back about 1/2 in. further then the mark. I have never done it like Chevyguy says, cutting the splines in the disc back, but that should work also.

[billrobbobjo]

Ya im having a problem of the clutch disc is 1/4 inch to far out when i put the tranny in so its always in drive even when pushing hte clutch. So either i need a longer spline on the tranny or a shorter shaft, or Shorten the discs splines by 1/4 inch or a ibt more

[wolffcub]

Just posting this to share other information in relation to a t5 on a 235. My disk in the truck was a new 10 spline so when i had my t5 trans apart prior to my initial install, a new 10 spline jeep input shaft was installed into it so i would not have to take the disk out and replace it. The jeep shaft has the splines cut further back anyways so you dont run into the clutch binding issue.

[wolffcub]

I also noticed that in one of your first posts you said you cut the input shaft back 1 inch? That seems way too much. I thought the t5's only needed about 3/8" max cut off.

[billrobbobjo]

Well last night at about 3 after not being able to sleep i found that thread with the 10 spline from the jeep and bought one. How tight does the outer tube that the throw out bearing rides on get with the jeep input shaft get? Anyone know because i might aswell by a jeep one if it isnt going to fit inside, because my old fly wheel is almost new and its a 10 spline aswell. and its a 21 tooth input shaft, Only problem is im missing 2 needle bearings inside the tranny right now =( any advice for getting them out?

[mongocanfly]

Did you drop the needles in the case or has it been run with them in the case? You might try draining the fluid and go thru the drain hole with a small magnet and see if you can getem..if not you may have to pull the top off and go fishing...

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

Did you drop the needles in the case or has it been run with them in the case? You might try draining the fluid and go thru the drain hole with a small magnet and see if you can getem..if not you may have to pull the top off and go fishing...

There you go, looks like a fishing trip one way or the other. I've been watching one of those Jeep shafts on Ebay for a while thinking about doing that swap as outside of the trouble of swapping it It solves a lot of issues.

On the bearing retainer/sleeve you might do a bit of searching and comparing on parts numbers.

This T-5 page has parts numbers that you can check to see what swaps. http://www.tbtrans.com/t5_transmission.htm Meaning if the same part number is used on both trans it should work but the Jeep and S-10 show different numbers for the retainer

[wolffcub]

The jeep input shaft fits in the s10 bearing retainer/sleeve just fine.

[wolffcub]

i had some issues with shifting my t5 into second so i had to take it out a month ago to fix 2 things. Here is just a copy paste on what i had to do. Think of these 2 things before you reinstall yours as its a shame if you have take it back out

Sorted out my issue. Found out it was the combination of 2 things.

#1 was the new input shaft and the new flywheel bushing were tight and the input shaft was gulled up. I have a feeling this caused some drag thus not allowing full release when using the clutch. I removed the shaft during this transmission rebuild and put it on the lathe and took a fraction off of the diameter.

#2 was the slider ring for 1/2 gear. The teeth on it were rounded thus not allowing it to properly engage quickly and smoothly. I went to a Camaro / Firebird pick yard we have just 20 min away and found a new set of 1/2 and 3/4 sliders. Got them for $90 for the pair. All the other rebuild parts i put in the last rebuild time still looked good so those parts were reused. It now shifts very smooth compared to before and i can wind the thing up to 3500 in first and get her into second now with no issues.

[billrobbobjo]

okay, the bearings fell out and i have retrieved them. hope i never have to do that again.

[billrobbobjo]

Well i got my new input shaft today from a jeep spline and shaft put it into the bell housing not connected to anything slid right in.could move the clutch disc about 1/2 an inch backwards so i think there is enough room. I put the tranny back together and now its getting locked up when i would push the full tranny into place. Any ideas. The only thing that is longer now on the new tranny is the input shafts pilot bearing shaft part. but it seemed to fit fine when i held it up. so confused... I am trying to do this all by my self no one around to help so any ideas would be great thanks!

[chevyguyase]

Does the Jeep have the same I.D. pilot shaft bearing? If it does, lets move on to taking a dowel that will fit into the pilot bearing and mark it at the bell housing trans mounting area using a straight edge across the mounting area. compare that measurement to the total length of your pilot shaft, tip to mounting area. If it is to long you now know how much to take off. If that is ok, put the trans in with just the disk, no pressure plate, and see if the disc is being forced against the flywheel. Also measure the distances between the mounting area and face of the pilot bearing and compare those readings. If your using a pilot bushing, instead of a bearing, you may be able to push it in a little further if that's the hang up. Good luck.

[mr48chev]

Borrowed off Stovebolt forum. The Jeep shaft is the same length as the S-10 shaft and has to be cut off to fit


This rambles a bit but scroll down to the sixth post on the page.
http://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/...Number=1044877

Wish I had known about the Jeep input shaft before I bought an Astrovan disk for my T-5 Flathead ford swap. The easy to find ten spline disks make that swap real attractive.

[chevyguyase]

Thanks for the picture Mr48chev, I was hoping I was communicating effectively. The pilot bearing area appears to be the same diameter. You made it clear the measurements I was talking about. A picture is worth a thousand words. I was wondering if using the jeep input shaft method causes any gear noise. I've been doing this professionally for 42 years plus more before and after my pro years. I never run a new gear on an old gear except on my own vehicles. The input gear runs on the cluster gear, so it should be noisy in every gear except 4th and 5th gear until they wear in together. I machined (countersunk) the clutch disk 1/4 to 3/8 inch to avoid all that. a 10 minute job on my drill press. The Astro van, 11 inch, 14 spine clutch hub had plenty of meat on it and I've driven it at least 5 years.

[billrobbobjo]

So you shrunk the amount the clutch disc splines are allowing the disc to run further on the input shaft allowing it to never bind on the shaft. There for leaving less spline inside the disc to grab the input shaft not thinking that would be a real problem on a 235 but just getting this correct before i attempt anything crazy haha.