57 Panel "FAKMLC" build

[FAKKY]

It begins

Bought the truck a few months back - planned to drive to work for fun before tearing down and doing a restomod. Well the rear gears whining, no AC and just a bumpy ride had me park the truck and today I'm starting teardown.

57 Chevy Panel 3100. Paid $8250. Had less rust than other trucks I had seen and my wife loves "hearses" so this was a good blend of the apache look at front to hearse at rear with the ability to have the dogs and/or sleep in rear on trips in the future.

Plans.
Dakota IFS front suspension and power steering from Industrial Chassis.
8.8 Rearend from mustang/explorer.
LS swap. Shooting for a 6.0 but might be a 4.8 or 5.3 and turbo it later.
New side windows and air vent windows, new door latches.
AC.

My background. My name is John. Work in IT. 5 years ago bought a 2001 diesel truck. By the time I got it home had a fuel supply issue that killed the IP so a bill for $3k finally got me in learning to turn a wrench. However NEVER done anything like this. Have replaced injectors, turbo kit (bolt in mostly), suspension kits and replaced transmission with a friend - but I find once you've done it once ...... its not that bad ..... just takes me 4x as long as most people

Looking forward to building this and appreciate in advance all the people that have helped me so far with ideas and info and will be helping ,me on this and other forums. You guys make the difference in getting things like this done. kudos.



As I bought it.

[FAKKY]

[Kim57]

Sounds like a nice build.
Good looking truck to start with.
Kim

[Nut Case]

FAKKY

You need to add one more statement to the "takes 4X's longer" just include that sometimes you need 3 do overs.....

Fun project, don't know what custom level your shooting for, but consider chopping the top 1-1 1/2 inches just enough to have some folks scratching there heads trying to figure out what makes it look so good.

Just puttin it out there...

Keep on keepin on

NC

[yossarian19]

Subscribed.

[FAKKY]

Thanks guys.

Got the front clip off and the side panels. Lots more sheet metal clips than my old truck.
Tip for others.
Consider removing wheels and placing on Jacks to make getting to the 8+ bolts in the fender wheel part easy and quick to remove. Other tip .. you literally have to remove every bolt you can see including all those by front clip and support at rear near door hinges reverse side.

[FAKKY]

Worst part so far....... came across more rust damage than I was hoping at point where front fender panel connects to firewall/main body section ..... right where the lower door hinges are. Lots of damaged metal and soft metal here so I'm curious to hear on what options to fix when I eventually put back together

[FAKKY]

[FAKKY]

Wonder if that rusted part is is piece #11 in the lmc catalog here.



Called hinge pillar.
Not sure if that's the only part might call lmc tomorrow.

[Kim57]

I think #11 is the outer piece and #12 is the inner piece.
Kinda hard to tell from the grainy catalog page.
Kim

[Advanced Design]

Nice looking panel John. I will be tagging along.

[svr]

Hard to tell for sure but looks to me like parts 11 and 12 might need replaceing, I just did #12 on both sides of mine, 11 was ok.

[FAKKY]

Not sure how to edit the original #9 posting ..... cant see an edit button.

[Kim57]

Looks like #12 is the inner piece by their description. I would replace both just to be safe.
Kim

[Techie79]

Nice looking project you have there. I'm glad to see that I'm not the only IT guy crazy enough to tear into a project like this.

Im dealing with the same rust problem on mine. That is definitely #12 with the big rust hole in it. You will probably wat to take a good look at 10, 11, and 14 while you are in there.

[FAKKY]

Thanks guys.
Haven't done anything last couple days with elections, work and other stuff. Going to be a way for a week sunday as well. If I can get to it will pull linkage and have engine ready to pull and do a compression and leakdown test on existing engine.



Made my own leakdown tester ........

[northern 85]

Very cool truck!!!!!!

[YahamaR1]

Nice panel..
Looks good
Good luck with your build,
And post a lot of pictures

[FAKKY]

Did a compression test completely cold engine had sat for over 2 weeks.

But basically pulled plugs and disabled distributor and coils

Cold motor and didn't touch throttle open

119-122 across all 6 cylinders.
Looks pretty good

Probably going to do leakdown just because I made my own gauge for when I go buy an engine.

Then pull linkages rest of today ...... away for a week tomorrow but engine out next Monday?

[FAKKY]

Looks like only real way to turn motor manually is via removal of starter and flywheel teeth.

Crank pulley looks like it's pressed on.
Alternator just spins the belt.

[yossarian19]

Pressed on or not, I can't imagine there aren't at least threads in the snout of the crank to work with. Right? LS motors have a tapered / press fit crank pulley, but forgodsake they have a bolt in there as well.

[FAKKY]

Yep beat me 2 it ....... two bolts threaded in front I can turn with a small pry

Bow gave to work out how to get base of manual transmission shift stick off ...... doest look like a press and turn or a slip coupling ..... not sure yet

T5

Update.....


1.45 into this video .... God bless youtube

https://youtu.be/5VHU6eHDPrE

[FAKKY]

1st cylinder took up to 70 psi and measure 61 on leakdown side.

Damn hard to hold crank with 1 hand at 70 psi lol

[FAKKY]

Leakdown results

#1 70/61
#2 80/70
#3 70/66
#4 70/63
#5 70/65
#6 80/70

Only reason for 80 rather than 70 2 times was trying to hold Guage and crank and hit in off at same time ......no helper today

For an unknown history engine.... seems decent.

[FAKKY]

So been tied up last 2 weeks but have some time over Thanksgiving. Tried pulling engine and transmission together today and don't think I can due to a winged bottom of t5 transmission.... about an inch to little clearance through crossmember. So going to pull separately tomorrow.

Question on disconnecting manual transmission from engine. Do I do it at the four or five bolts that join the main transmission (silver) to bellhousing.... this will leave clutch and bellhousing on engine. Or do I remove at bellhousing .... I can only see two top bolts here ???

Also anything need to be disengaged .... I think she's in neutral but hard to tell now shifter is out.