thinking about getting this in the morning

[schpeen]

1991 owner says no rust solid truck $2500 4x4 auto 350/350

worth it right?

[schpeen]

no opinions ?? this is the last year for the K5 isn't it? not a desirable year?

[68Timber]

Hard to tell the condition from the pictures, that's all. Short answer, if there truly is no rust and it runs and drives good, you can't hardly go wrong. But it's in Ft Lauderdale? Check it well. I would think the salt air had got to it at least a little.

[schpeen]

Originally Posted by 68Timber

Hard to tell the condition from the pictures, that's all. Short answer, if there truly is no rust and it runs and drives good, you can't hardly go wrong. But it's in Ft Lauderdale? Check it well. I would think the salt air had got to it at least a little.

yes thanks the truck is about 2.5 hours away from here in northern florida. my thoughts were the same if there really truly is little to no rust i have to buy it! Really don't want to with the turkey rod run in 2 weeks up in daytona there will be thousands of cool rides for sale but i didn't want to miss this one if it is a good solid truck. i was thinking about low dollar fix up after the last one i am still trying to hide all the receipts from the wife!

[Ski-me]

It wouldn't come with a 350/350 from factory. Should be 700R4 with overdrive. If it's 350 tranny, that would be a 3 speed only and would also require modifications with the rest of the truck/EGM I would assume.

If it is the 700R4 then probably question other things that the seller is advertising. Misquoting info tells me the person doesn't know a lot about the truck.

90-91 have the rear wheel abs brakes and electronic speedo with an extra digit for your odometer. So it should still be ticking beyond the 100,000 mile mark.

If it's good condition, yes, $2500 is a good deal. Just look for rust from the bottom. Inside of fenders, rear inner fenders, rear tailgate area, etc.

[Ski-me]

OK, looking at it closer, it does look like rear tailgate has rust in middle center and then painted over again. Rear window either doesn't go all the way up or isn't sealing. I see either duct tape around top and then in back inside, I see some sort of wedge. That tells me he has had leaks of some sort. Looks real good in the back inside and outside for rust....especially if the rear top has not been sealing properly.

Engine looks original and correct (abs module on master cylinder), dash looks like it has some type of rough, aftermarket type of "cap" on it, and then screwed down to the original dash (side, driver's view).

If he is also supplying extra Fenders and inner fenders, that can only tell me there is rust in there and he was planning to replace at some point. Why would he have them otherwise.

Speedo looks era correct.

3.42 gears are stock and not a power monster by any means. So any larger tire, and it will be a little sluggish. I ran 31's or 32's with 3.42's.

Just my thoughts.

[schpeen]

my wife and I took a drive up to Arcadia this morning to check it out. I laid down underneath it right away because the only thing that has been on my mind the whole time is hidden rust but to my amazement dry and clean underside and I stayed under there a while trying to find some evidence of rust anywhere and couldn't find any i did see the motor trans and transfer case all looked recently gone through. inside all the fenders and under the rockers all metal and original paint no rust ok you got my attention! The rear tailgate window lift mechanism stopped working so instead of fixing it he eased it in the up position and put duct tape all around the edges so it wouldn't drop there is no rust but there is a pretty nice dent that looks like it may prevent the window from going down anyway the interior is pretty much all there but heavily soiled and worn dash is shot and a cheap plastic shell cover sits over it back seat is in great shape along with the passenger front the driver seat is blown out in the corner but still very comfy this is a silverado pw tilt ac (not working) auto must be the 350/700r4 motor was quiet all stock but fired right up and ran smooth no smoke couldn't even tell it was running it was so smooth and shifted through the gears without any drama power windows and power mirrors work as does the horn no cracks in the windshield

only bad spot i found is above the windshield near the passenger door top edge there is a rust spot so i will take out the windshield and address that first. the front bumper is crumpled in and pulled back out but not far enough in to damage the grill so new brackets and a fresh bumper will be top on the "need" list

i drove it home doing 65-75 mph for 2.5 hours straight after filling up the 30 gallon gas tank with 28 gallons of premium and checking the oil and air pressure i was pleasantly surprised she ran nice even with the crappy unbalanced 20% left 33" tires some vibration right at 60 mph but was able to speed up to 65+ and it smoothed out somewhat brakes felt perfect and smooth oil pressure was strong and temp gauge never budged Rear diff was not happy by the time i got home so will need to address that right away as well started rubbing a few areas with some was on a rag and she is coming right back to a nice shine. I assumed it was a repaint but now that i am cleaning it up a little it all looks original. I will post up some more pics tomorrow.

thanks for looking

[schpeen]

of course my first thought was the camo is covering up rust or bondo but turned out the guy just loves camo he puts it on everything! lol I and thinking about taking it off and wet sanding and polishing the whole truck and painting the stock wheels and the roof right up to the windshield white

[schpeen]

i ordered a set of KM2 33x12.5/15 but i am thinking maybe i should have gone with the 10" width instead for less sluggish steering

[68Timber]

Sounds like you got a great deal then. Congrats, and keep us posted!

[Ski-me]

Originally Posted by schpeen

i ordered a set of KM2 33x12.5/15 but i am thinking maybe i should have gone with the 10" width instead for less sluggish steering

Sweet job and glad to hear it ran well. I prefer the 8" wheel width over the 10" so don't second guess it. You would tend to get some potential curb rub and skuff up the 10 wheels. 15x8 will look great.

I'd go through the brakes and be sure they are in order. The seats actually looked pretty good. Give them a good scrubbing and they will probably clean up real nice.

I got a whole new carpet set and that really helped. I think I got it from stockinteriors.com but the vendor/supplier is actually ACC. Most will come from ACC too but that's the one to get.

Check out ball joints and all steering components.

Check out driveline u-joints too. May want to replace for piece of mind.

Overall, sweet deal and congrats!!

Here is mine with 33x12.5r15 on the stock ralley 15x8's. Lift is 2.5" but yours will look pretty close to this.....

[schpeen]

Originally Posted by Ski-me

Sweet job and glad to hear it ran well. I prefer the 8" wheel width over the 10" so don't second guess it. You would tend to get some potential curb rub and skuff up the 10 wheels. 15x8 will look great.

I'd go through the brakes and be sure they are in order. The seats actually looked pretty good. Give them a good scrubbing and they will probably clean up real nice.

I got a whole new carpet set and that really helped. I think I got it from stockinteriors.com but the vendor/supplier is actually ACC. Most will come from ACC too but that's the one to get.

Check out ball joints and all steering components.

Check out driveline u-joints too. May want to replace for piece of mind.

Overall, sweet deal and congrats!!

Here is mine with 33x12.5r15 on the stock ralley 15x8's. Lift is 2.5" but yours will look pretty close to this.....

i called first thing this morning and my tires were already shipped out i started stripping out the interior and pulled the top off now i see why he put duct tape cross the roof the top bolts down in all the right spots except for the first bolting the front that bolts down to the bed rail is broken off probably cross threaded so the top wasn't cranked down the way it should be. I will attempt drilling it out and i'll try an easy out if it is stubborn not sure what to do with it

i ordered a carpet set fro LMC today along with a new front bumper and brackets and a new dash pad i also ordered all new rubbers all the way around wasn't hard to get up over the $1000 mark which gives you free shipping!

Took it by my body man today and had him give it a once over as well I am going to have him wet sand and buff the whole truck and paint the top maybe flat black and paint the wheels silver the i love the look of the white wheels and dog dish hub caps but not sure it will look good on a black truck

[Ski-me]

Originally Posted by schpeen

i called first thing this morning and my tires were already shipped out i started stripping out the interior and pulled the top off now i see why he put duct tape cross the roof the top bolts down in all the right spots except for the first bolting the front that bolts down to the bed rail is broken off probably cross threaded so the top wasn't cranked down the way it should be. I will attempt drilling it out and i'll try an easy out if it is stubborn not sure what to do with it

i ordered a carpet set fro LMC today along with a new front bumper and brackets and a new dash pad i also ordered all new rubbers all the way around wasn't hard to get up over the $1000 mark which gives you free shipping!

Took it by my body man today and had him give it a once over as well I am going to have him wet sand and buff the whole truck and paint the top maybe flat black and paint the wheels silver the i love the look of the white wheels and dog dish hub caps but not sure it will look good on a black truck

Nice job and way to go after it with a bang! I think LMC also sources carpet from ACC so you're probably good. Depending on if you got the mass backing and jute underlayment.....might be good to refresh the jute matting too.

The canopy bolts are the funky open star type thing, but screw into some flat plate nuts of some sort. I had one bad one so went to home depot and got a flat bar that was the right thickness. Then drilled and tapped it. Then cut off the length I needed and inserted into the channel on the bottom side of the bed rail. Works great and is like the rest of them. They need to slide in the small channel just a little bit so you have flexibility getting the bolt in once the top has been dropped back on.

Take the interior side panels off and you'll gain access to the bottom rail where you can replace the flat bar nuts.

I start with the front cab bolts first to get it sucked in better, and then do the bedrail bolts.

Lets see some pics too!

You'll always find more things to do....and spend on these trucks. It's fun though!

[schpeen]

Originally Posted by Ski-me

Nice job and way to go after it with a bang! I think LMC also sources carpet from ACC so you're probably good. Depending on if you got the mass backing and jute underlayment.....might be good to refresh the jute matting too.

The canopy bolts are the funky open star type thing, but screw into some flat plate nuts of some sort. I had one bad one so went to home depot and got a flat bar that was the right thickness. Then drilled and tapped it. Then cut off the length I needed and inserted into the channel on the bottom side of the bed rail. Works great and is like the rest of them. They need to slide in the small channel just a little bit so you have flexibility getting the bolt in once the top has been dropped


Take the interior side panels off and you'll gain access to the bottom rail where you can replace the flat bar nuts.

I start with the front cab bolts first to get it sucked in better, and then do the bedrail bolts.



Lets see some pics too!




You'll always find more things to do....and spend on these trucks. It's fun though!

Posted via Mobile Device

That's good advice thank you very much I believe I will try and pull out the seats today so I will also pull those side panels and drill and tap a plate as you suggested Then I want to start pulling out the dash

[schpeen]

Posted via Mobile Device

[schpeen]

Still have the original exhaust with catalytic converter! the truck starts up immediately and runs very smooth and quiet so I am apprehensive to replace with headers on back with a more free flowing dual setup. I assume the stock 5.7 has throttle body which would be computer controlled somewhat so it will automatically adjust itself to a new exhaust??
Posted via Mobile Device

[Ski-me]

Originally Posted by schpeen

Still have the original exhaust with catalytic converter! the truck starts up immediately and runs very smooth and quiet so I am apprehensive to replace with headers on back with a more free flowing dual setup. I assume the stock 5.7 has throttle body which would be computer controlled somewhat so it will automatically adjust itself to a new exhaust??
Posted via Mobile Device

Realistically, you're not going to gain much with this engine and headers/exhaust modifications. It's just not a high horsepower rig to start with. I'd keep the stock manifolds and do a cat back type system. I installed a Flowmaster muffler and tailpipe system.

https://smile.amazon.com/Flowmaster-...9%3AFlowmaster

[schpeen]

Ok will do. Leave the 25 year old cat on? I'm not looking for a speed demon. I have one of those already. Lol
Posted via Mobile Device

[schpeen]

does anyone sell the wind visors on the side windows of the cap? mine are both missing

[Ski-me]

Originally Posted by schpeen

does anyone sell the wind visors on the side windows of the cap? mine are both missing

Yea, I saw that. I'm not aware of any place just for those vents. What you need to find is a good junkyard (Pick n Pull) type place. You'll be amazed what you can find if you keep your eyes open. Molding, trim pieces, etc. This is going to be a good source for you.

I'll look at mine and see if they are easy to remove by themselves. Don't recall if you need the whole side window as an assembly or not. Just keep your eyes peeled for a either a canopy with the rear sliders intact or someone selling just the side windows themselves. Either way, you can swap them into your existing canopy pretty easily.

I just replaced my front door felts/sweeps from 1A Auto. Turned out great. My next set will be the rear tailgate and fiberglass insert for rear window.

[Ski-me]

Originally Posted by schpeen

Ok will do. Leave the 25 year old cat on? I'm not looking for a speed demon. I have one of those already. Lol
Posted via Mobile Device

Mine has been replaced at one point and I should replace it at some point for good measure. Is yours the large, flat, big one (original) or is it somewhat smaller (replaced at some point)?

It might be good to replace while you're in there if you do the rear exhaust all at the same time.

[schpeen]

Originally Posted by Ski-me

Mine has been replaced at one point and I should replace it at some point for good measure. Is yours the large, flat, big one (original) or is it somewhat smaller (replaced at some point)?

It might be good to replace while you're in there if you do the rear exhaust all at the same time.

yes it is the big flat one i will replace it then

thanks for the advice Jeff! very helpful info first thing this morning gives me motivation to go get dirty

[schpeen]

Originally Posted by Ski-me

Yea, I saw that. I'm not aware of any place just for those vents. What you need to find is a good junkyard (Pick n Pull) type place. You'll be amazed what you can find if you keep your eyes open. Molding, trim pieces, etc. This is going to be a good source for you.

I'll look at mine and see if they are easy to remove by themselves. Don't recall if you need the whole side window as an assembly or not. Just keep your eyes peeled for a either a canopy with the rear sliders intact or someone selling just the side windows themselves. Either way, you can swap them into your existing canopy pretty easily.

I just replaced my front door felts/sweeps from 1A Auto. Turned out great. My next set will be the rear tailgate and fiberglass insert for rear window.

they have set screws holding them in so should be easy install when i find them I have found mall parking lots to be a great source for parts as well! lol (kidding of course) or am I ? lol

[Ski-me]

Originally Posted by schpeen

yes it is the big flat one i will replace it then

thanks for the advice Jeff! very helpful info first thing this morning gives me motivation to go get dirty

Any time I can spend other people's money, I jump on it!!

[schpeen]

got a delivery from the land shark looks like i will be sanding wheels today. I pulled all 4 off and I will take them over to the nearby shop and get them broken down so i can clean them up and primer today