I Need some frame advice

[57taskforce]

I'm tearing my K/20 down as we speak to begin the restoration. I've got it down to the bare frame except for the 465/205 and drive shafts. In the picture you can see the area circled in red. This area is twisted. The front cab mount is pulled down some. Like an idiot I didn't think to measure the distance of the mount to the ground to compare to the other side. It's at the shop I work at so I won't be there again till tomorrow. On this same side the frame rail cracked up by the steering box and was repaired but it wasn't welded straight so the frame horn isn't straight. In the red section the top and bottom of the rail is visually not paralell. My questions are 1) should I cut the frame loose up front by the crack before I start to straighten the twist or should I leave it and fix it after the twist. 2) any suggestions on how to get the twist out? A new frame isn't an option, long k frames are hard to come by any more and this one has 0 rust. I have not "x"d the front of the frame yet to see exactly where things are at yet. Any suggestions appreciated.
Tyler

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by 57taskforce

I'm tearing my K/20 down as we speak to begin the restoration. I've got it down to the bare frame except for the 465/205 and drive shafts. In the picture you can see the area circled in red. This area is twisted. The front cab mount is pulled down some. Like an idiot I didn't think to measure the distance of the mount to the ground to compare to the other side. It's at the shop I work at so I won't be there again till tomorrow. On this same side the frame rail cracked up by the steering box and was repaired but it wasn't welded straight so the frame horn isn't straight. In the red section the top and bottom of the rail is visually not paralell. My questions are 1) should I cut the frame loose up front by the crack before I start to straighten the twist or should I leave it and fix it after the twist. 2) any suggestions on how to get the twist out? A new frame isn't an option, long k frames are hard to come by any more and this one has 0 rust. I have not "x"d the front of the frame yet to see exactly where things are at yet. Any suggestions appreciated.
Tyler

I would take it to a frame shop and have it done on a frame machine. I'm sure there will be more problems than you can see with the naked eye....

Just my 2 ¢ worth.

LockDoc

[lowbucktrucks]

x2

[B. W.]

The factory chassis service manual has all of the frame measurements for checking a frame. It explains how to check for twists in the frame, etc. It also has a section on how to weld the frame if needed. My frame was also damaged at the gear box & had been welded at some previous point. Whoever welded it did a good job as far as penetration goes but did not line up the frame ear. I cut the weld out, re-aligned the ear & welded again. It was 3/4" high before, ended up about 1/16" out. The ears were also spread. I also added the factory frame brace for the gear box (I believe only 72? not sure) & used sections of frame left over from shortening frame to further brace the ear (last pic) Don't have a good pic of the finished ear.

As far as the twist goes, the frame is very flexible after you take everything off. I think I would remove everything, put a brace in at one end right where the twist starts, then bolt or weld a long piece of metal (3" channel by 6' long) at the other end of the twist & use it for leverage to twist the frame back. (or brace both ends & straighten from the middle)

Because the crack at the box is not near the twist I don't think it matters which you do first.

Someone here made the service manuals available as PDF's can't remember who, you might want to search for them.

[B. W.]

I was eating dinner while posting, LocDoc & Lowbucktrucks posted while I was typing, what they said is the best option.

[57taskforce]

Originally Posted by B. W.

The factory chassis service manual has all of the frame measurements for checking a frame. It explains how to check for twists in the frame, etc. It also has a section on how to weld the frame if needed. My frame was also damaged at the gear box & had been welded at some previous point. Whoever welded it did a good job as far as penetration goes but did not line up the frame ear. I cut the weld out, re-aligned the ear & welded again. It was 3/4" high before, ended up about 1/16" out. The ears were also spread. I also added the factory frame brace for the gear box (I believe only 72? not sure) & used sections of frame left over from shortening frame to further brace the ear (last pic) Don't have a good pic of the finished ear.

As far as the twist goes, the frame is very flexible after you take everything off. I think I would remove everything, put a brace in at one end right where the twist starts, then bolt or weld a long piece of metal (3" channel by 6' long) at the other end of the twist & use it for leverage to twist the frame back. (or brace both ends & straighten from the middle)

Because the crack at the box is not near the twist I don't think it matters which you do first.

Someone here made the service manuals available as PDF's can't remember who, you might want to search for them.

Thanks for the suggestions guys. There's a good frame shop in town. However I think I may try my hand at this one first. I was thinking something similar to what was posted here. Bust it all loose and try and pull it back. If that don't work then to the frame shop it is, I suppose.

[Dieselwrencher]

Honestly, a good frame guy can probably have it fixed in half a day and your bill may not be too bad. If you have sufficient ways of securing the frame to put proper pulls and pushes on it, I'd consider doing it your self. But it requires plenty of anchor points etc. I used to straighten light duty clear up to heavy duty frames. It sure is an art. I didn't think so when I first started doing it.