What Brakelines Do I Need?

[KyleSeal]

Just did a disc brake conversion from CPP for my 70 C10, currently has no master cylinder and no brake lines in the truck. What do I use? Should I just go to Autzone and get a disc/drum MC from 72 and order pre bent 72 brake lines from Brothers? I would probably also buy the prop valve from Brothers, Classic Parts or POL. I'm just looking for a direct bolt up no worries type of set up. thanks in advance.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by KyleSeal

Just did a disc brake conversion from CPP for my 70 C10, currently has no master cylinder and no brake lines in the truck. What do I use? Should I just go to Autzone and get a disc/drum MC from 72 and order pre bent 72 brake lines from Brothers? I would probably also buy the prop valve from Brothers, Classic Parts or POL. I'm just looking for a direct bolt up no worries type of set up. thanks in advance.

I'm not sure there is such a thing with brake lines....

LockDoc

[KyleSeal]

I'm fine with a little bending to fit but I want to find a formula that isnt too complicated. Something simple and relatively inexpensive. Do you have any suggestions?

Originally Posted by LockDoc

I'm not sure there is such a thing with brake lines....

LockDoc

[bhemingson]

https://www.inlinetube.com/

check out these guys. Great customer service

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by KyleSeal

I'm fine with a little bending to fit but I want to find a formula that isnt too complicated. Something simple and relatively inexpensive. Do you have any suggestions?

Not really. I always use Nicopp tubing and bend my own. Nicopp won't rust and you can bend and flare it by hand. If you bend one wrong it is easy to straighten it back out and re-bend it....

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...+line&_sacat=0

A lot of people on here have posted about problems with the pre-bent stuff.

LockDoc

[pappy 2]

Will the Nicopp lines take a double flare that is recommended for brake lines?
Watched a U-Tube video, using Nicopp, but he was not using a double flare on lines for a Mustang.

[GR8-68]

I just bought this nicopp kit off Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[jeffahart]

I would recommend for you to get the pre bent from inline tube. I bent every line on my truck, and I can flare ends. But if you have no experience you may struggle with ugly bends and leaks. What you can do is use all straight line pre flared. Start your layout at the wheels and end at the valve under the master. Then you can just coil the excess there and not have to flare. So my basic advise is make the layout with cloths hangers, measure, then get some lengths of straight line pre flared so you don't have to flare ends.

I think if you call a company like inline they can help you out with MC and prop.

On that mustang video you watched, if he was not double flaring 45, he was not using an OEM connection. You will be double flaring at 45. If you are going OEM.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by pappy 2

Will the Nicopp lines take a double flare that is recommended for brake lines?
Watched a U-Tube video, using Nicopp, but he was not using a double flare on lines for a Mustang.

Yes, it will double flare just like regular steel brake lines only much easier..

Originally Posted by jeffahart

I would recommend for you to get the pre bent from inline tube. I bent every line on my truck, and I can flare ends. But if you have no experience you may struggle with ugly bends and leaks. What you can do is use all straight line pre flared. Start your layout at the wheels and end at the valve under the master. Then you can just coil the excess there and not have to flare. So my basic advise is make the layout with cloths hangers, measure, then get some lengths of straight line pre flared so you don't have to flare ends.

I think if you call a company like inline they can help you out with MC and prop.

On that mustang video you watched, if he was not double flaring 45, he was not using an OEM connection. You will be double flaring at 45. If you are going OEM.

He won't have to worry about ugly bends with the Nicopp tubing because it is so easy to bend. I double flare the Nicopp tubing holding the flaring tool in my hands without any problems.

LockDoc

[davepl]

I did all my own, and it was really my first real attempt. It turned out great, except for the bruises on my hips from bending stainless, which is tough.

If I were doing copper brass or mild steel I would DEFINITELY do it myself, though stainless is a tougher call.

I had the Mastercool hydraulic flaring tool, and recommend it. I don't think I'd want to do a whole truck with a manual flaring tools, but maybe softer metal would be OK...

So if you can buy/rent a decent flaring tool and you're using a softer tube, go for it! If in doubt, look up Right Stuff detailing, they had the best stuff when I looked. The pre-bent stuff is only going to fit C10 regular bed, though... 3/4T, anything like that and you're on your own like I was.

[HO455]

My vote is for the nickel copper tubing. It has been used for decades in Europe on high end cars. Only recently got approved for use in the US. Very forgiving to work with. Less prone to corrosion than steel lines. Can be polished to a high luster. And now days it is easy to find so the price has come down. I wouldn't use anything else. Over the years I have tried different prebent tubing companies and learned their idea of prebent to fit and mine are different. One trick I use is to make a practice piece out of some solid conductor copper wire. It will make those tricky pieces easier and you won't waste any tubing. Start with the rear axle tubes as they are shorter and easy to get at. Buying an all in one bender will work "OK" but you will get much better results with a bender sized for the tubing your working with. For your truck you will use 1/4" tubing for the lines from the master cylinder to the Tee's. Then it should change to 3/16" after that. At least that's what my 67 did. There is some more info on page 8 of my Working Man's Burban thread (The WMB) Troll around some there is lots of info here, even if you just look at pictures to confirm fitting sizes and tubing routes.

[jeffahart]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

He won't have to worry about ugly bends with the Nicopp tubing because it is so easy to bend. I double flare the Nicopp tubing holding the flaring tool in my hands without any problems.

LockDoc

I may try this Nicopp for myself. I am going to gut my whole brake system this weekend. I'm installing a hydroboost. I will be changing out the lines as well. I actually have most of the parts warming the bench... but I need hard lines. I did a hasty line install after my axle swaps knowing I would be going through the whole brake system later on.

Hey doc, how do you cut your lines, do use a pipe cutter or saw and file? On tougher steel I like to cut and file. I have a piece of flat steel with holes drilled into it. I lay this on the flaring clamp with line protruding so I can file square without marring my flaring tool. Then I chamfer a bit around the edge. Just thinking I might pipe cut if the Nicopp is a bit softer. I have several small pipe cutters I use for copper plumbing. But I'm paranoid about square cuts.