Officially hate Rustoleum

[gvw5400]

Looks great! keep going!
Keep working on that fender and replace the brace, It will all come together!
Tire blow outs suck, and make for flappy quarter panels!
All the best, Dirk

[special-K]

I've never had an issue from painting in the high ambient humidity of summer. I'll paint year 'round as long as it isn't raining. In the winter freezing temps I roll wheel & tires in by the wood stove till they get nice and warm, roll outside to paint, then roll back back by the stove to cure...with great results. Rattle can is mixed to be best for the range of conditions, since it's not adjustable. But, the way I paint is same as doing a whole vehicle paint job. It's one continuous shot of light coating I come back on once tacked over and over till I have my good solid paint job. I never let paint set, scuff, and coat unless there is an issue to fix. Then I know to allow to cure for days, not hours. I don't think 24 hours is enough. I just painted my utility trailer with gloss black Rustoleum. I let it sit a couple weeks till last Wed. when I loaded it for the truck show at Carlisle. I wanted at least a couple weeks of curing in the hot sun to cure it up real good. I expected to see a lot of paint rubbed off the sides anyway, but it all hung tough. The wheels on my trailer I painted Charcoal Metallic Rustoleum to match my '95 Suburban. I sandblasted, etch primed, and spray bombed them, same as wheels on the ' Burb (last year). I had people at the show asking if they were powder coated.

I guess it depends on which Rustoleum product we are talking about whether there are rust inhibitors in it. Because that brown rusty metal primer is the next best thing next to Mastercoat or POR15. I've used it on about everything under the sun with a rusted surface with great results... including a 150 year old totally surface rusted with hardly a stitch of paint left standing seam roof 5 years ago. I did wire cup and use Osphos first to kill rust, of course. It still looks like I just did it. Falling limbs don't scratch it and no lifting, peeling anywhere. Paint is a product and painting is a process. The best paint in the world in a can is only as good as the process.

[mike16]

ArmourAll and other similar products have silicone in them. The silicone will not allow paint to adhere to any surface. Maybe thats the problem, Please let us know what works to remove silicone, short of sand blasting or some newclear irradication means.

[special-K]

I work on houses and hate silicone. It's the first thing a homeowner grabs to seal a leak. Then they call me when they realize it takes more than a bead (if lucky) of caulk. I use a tripolymer urethane caulk that is invincible. The best stuff in the universe that does everything silicone does better and then some. BUT>>> It won't stick to where silidamn cone has been used!!

I am also thinking the problem is either impurities paint shrinking due to skinned on top, soft under, top coat melted through and shrunk the skin.