Rear disc brakes. $$$$

[swervin ervin]

Well, here's an update on things.

I've been looking at all the aftermarket rear disc kits you can buy for a long time. Been wanting rear disc for years. I never liked the way the brackets looked. Always looked to flimsy to me. Anyway, seen the drawings on ebay on how to make your own brackets. Bought the drawings. After looking and reading on this, the drawings show the caliper at the top of the rotor. This is wrong. The bleeder fitting needs to be at 12:00. I plan on redesigning the brackets to move the rotor in the right spot. No biggy. So, reading on what is needed to do this the right way, I started searching for the cheapest places to buy what is needed. I know there will be some who say you can do this or you could have done that and cheaper but just as good. Probably right. But I prefer new stuff and don't care for junkyard hunting and stuff. So, I bought all new stuff. Here's the list so far.

Disc/disc master cylinder - $119.95
Disc/disc combination valve - $109.95
Seville/El Dorato calipers complete with all e-brake hardware, mounting bolts and pads - $280.00
Brake cable extensions - $20.00
Braided brake hoses with all mounting hardware - $50.00
Correct rotors that fit axle flange and 5/5 bolt pattern - $180.00

This doesn't include misc stuff like new axle seals (which I didn't have to replace but just wanted to), differential cover gasket, gear oil and brake fluid. I've also got to buy the 3/8" steel plate for the brakets and grade 8 bolts, nuts and washers.

I figure by the time I'm through with everything, I'll probably have $850.00 or better in it all. This is not real bad I don't guess. Bad enough though. I've seen some of the kits go for $695.00 to $795.00, and none of the kits include a new master cylinder and combination valve, not counting the brackets I don't like. I found a kit for $495.00, but it requried axle flange machining. Biggest thing I didn't like about the aftermarket brackets is they only use three mounting bolts. Mine will use a four axle housing flange bolts to mount the primary bracket and four more to mount the secondary bracket, for a total of 8 bolts holding on the brackets.

Anyway, just thought I would let everyone know what's up. This is another one of them things I start out thinking cheap and it ends up being anything but cheap. Oh well, it's been this way with everything I've done on this truck, no use to change now.

[bigblock73]

WoW...good job Mikey...once you set your mind to something, you sure go after it!

Keep us posted.

[82 Silverado 4X]

Mike,
Are you going to document (part#s etc.) and take pics of everything as you go through the conversion? A complete conversion with no major machining would make an excellent tech article.

[swervin ervin]

Yes, I plan to write an article on the conversion. There are a lot of things and parts you can substitute for the ones I'm using, but at what cost? I wanted to do this right and one time. Just the way I am I guess. Only machining needed will be the brackets and I plan on doing this. We will see how it goes. I don't think it will be hard to do.

[Grim Reaper]

Caliper at the top is a 4x4 thing. Your right it's anoying on a 2x4 app.

Yes it makes it a pain to bleed BUT it 's protected up there. Most of those kids you can flip the bracket and get the caliper to about the 2 O-clock.

As for bleeding.. I just take the caliper loos from the brackit. stick it on the disc where the bleeder is straight up and hold it with a C-Clamp or a Bungee till I am done bleeding.

I still stand by the stock master will do the job. The problem is not so much the pressure as it is the size of the reservior. Disc adjust by the volume of fluid in the caliper, Drums do not. They use rough ly the same amount of fluid though the whole life cycle of the shoes. The Caddi calipers adjust by the parking brake so it's not as much of a problem.

If you still feel you want to got Disc master....check some of the early 80's Firebirds or TA's. one of them was running 4 wheel disc and is supose to be a bolt up to the booster in our trucks. Weight is not a lot different then a Short wide 2x4.

Adjust Wilwood Prop valve is $50. Modifying existing CV into a distribution block with presure loss....free.

[swervin ervin]

I've already got my parts or they are on the way.

Master cylinder.

[swervin ervin]

Combination valve.

[swervin ervin]

This is a Corvette master cylinder but I have no idea what year it is. You have to switch the lines around as the rear port is toward the booster. No biggy though as the lines are easy to move.

The combination valve is a direct bolt on. Nothing needed except to remove the old one and bolt this one up. Simple enough.

[N2TRUX]

Originally posted by Grim Reaper
.... I still stand by the stock master will do the job. The problem is not so much the pressure as it is the size of the reservior. Disc adjust by the volume of fluid in the caliper, Drums do not. .....

Mike not that it matters now, but I will have to agree with Grim Reaper on this.

I have converted two of my own trucks to rear discs using the Stainless Steel brakes kit. At the time they used Ford SVO/Lincoln rear calipers because they had a built in E-brake provision.

I converted my 97 Chevy 1/2 ton crewcab, and the results were fantastic. If anything the rear brakes were biased too much. On my 82 Blazer the results were the oppisite. While they do perform better than the drum brakes, they are not that big of an improvement.

The SSB conversion did not use a different reservior or prop valve. I think the adjustable prop valve would be the answer on both my conversions.

Regardless you still hold your title as a pioneer in the 73-87 truck crowd. My hats off to you buddy...

[swervin ervin]

This is what I got from www.mpbrakes.com


How does a disc brake master differ from a drum brake master?

A drum brake master will differ from a disc brake master in two ways. The amount of fluid that a drum brake master has to move is less than disc brake. Drum brake masters have 10 lb residual valves at the outlet to keep a residual pressure on the drums. If you use a drum brake master for disc brakes you would move an insufficient volume of fluid and the disc brakes would drag because of the residual valves.


Can I use my drum brake master for disc brakes?

No, for two reasons. First you will not have enough pressure or volume and second the drum brake master will have a residual valve that will cause the disc brakes to drag.


Either way, I chose to go with a new master and CV.

[bigblock73]

Hey mike, while you have the rear apart, you may as well detail and paint it too. But as long as the rear is looking new, might as well pull the bed off and do the chassis as well. But I guess if the back half of the chassis looks good, might as well do the front too. Now that the cab is off, you could take it apart, fix the dent in the door, and get it painted.