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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: League City, TX
Posts: 21
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Body panel repair
All of my fenders have some amount of damage to them and I was hoping to get some feedback on what appears to be repairable vs scrapped/replaced. The front fenders look terrible to me, but I'm not an expert in body work. And by repair I mean patch panels or other metal work - not just filler.
Please let me know what you think. RightFront ![]() LeftFront ![]() RightRear ![]() LeftRear ![]()
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1947 Chevy 3100 1950 Chevy 3100 (sold) 2009 Chevy Silverado Texas Edition (sold) 2019 Chevy Silverado Texas Edition |
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#2 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: el campo texas
Posts: 322
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Re: Body panel repair
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#3 |
Post Whore
![]() ![]() Join Date: May 2015
Location: Alabama
Posts: 14,634
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Re: Body panel repair
all fixable...you start swapping fenders around and you'll start regretting it..
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#4 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Wichita
Posts: 516
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Re: Body panel repair
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Boise, Idaho
Posts: 6,003
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Re: Body panel repair
It is SOOOOOOOO easy to fix those old fenders! Dents like that are SOOOOOOOO easy compared to a late model car, omg it's fun! I wouldn't think for a millisecond to get repro new ones, omg GAG ME. The repro new ones are more work to fit than those are to repair!
They have full access from behind, hell I did stuff like that on my truck when I was 16 years old, the first metal I ever hit with a hammer was on fenders like like. Just start studying and learn a little bit from videos and such that are around and you will do it yourself and be a friggin stud! Brian
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1948 Chevy pickup Chopped, Sectioned, 1953 Corvette 235 powered. Once was even 401 Buick mid engined with the carburetor right between the seats! Bought with paper route money in 1973 when I was 15. "Fan of most anything that moves human beings" |
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#6 |
Hollister Road Co.
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Houston
Posts: 6,134
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Re: Body panel repair
Those are actually in pretty good shape.
Get yourself a hammer and dolly set and a shrinking wheel on it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X8cruauERmI tap out the dents and run them over with the wheel. If you can wait two weeks you can bring a fender by and I'll have Jacob show you how to use it. |
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: League City, TX
Posts: 21
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Re: Body panel repair
Thank you all for the advice and encouragement. Body work has always been intimidating but now is the time to learn! I picked up a hammer and dolly set this evening and will start reading and watching some videos. Thank you guys for the links.
Dave, I might have to take you up on that when it come to the wheel. You explained the idea which was very helpful. After some reading/watching I may contact you. I need some time to learn so 2+ weeks is no worries. Thank you!
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1947 Chevy 3100 1950 Chevy 3100 (sold) 2009 Chevy Silverado Texas Edition (sold) 2019 Chevy Silverado Texas Edition |
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#8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: League City, TX
Posts: 21
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Re: Body panel repair
Ok... 1 more. No that I have more confidence in the fenders... the last challenge is this bed side. Is there anything I can do about this:
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1947 Chevy 3100 1950 Chevy 3100 (sold) 2009 Chevy Silverado Texas Edition (sold) 2019 Chevy Silverado Texas Edition |
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#9 |
Post Whore
![]() ![]() Join Date: May 2015
Location: Alabama
Posts: 14,634
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Re: Body panel repair
it could be fixed but that ones gonna be a little tougher...with the proper tools a good bodyman could do it..maybe a replacement used bedside would be easier..will be hard to get inside the rolled edge to to bring it back up...if it was mine i would cut out that kinked section and straighten it all up and repair rolled lip as needed...if your up to the cost mar-k has some excellent new bedsides...are you going for a patina truck or a slick paint job?
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#10 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: League City, TX
Posts: 21
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I'm going for a slick paint job. I'm willing to go for new side. It would seem a new side would be easier to fit than new fenders or are all aftermarket body panels a pain?
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#11 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Boise, Idaho
Posts: 6,003
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Re: Body panel repair
Yeah, the bed sides are pretty tough for sure. And the repros fit pretty good being they are so simple.
Brian
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1948 Chevy pickup Chopped, Sectioned, 1953 Corvette 235 powered. Once was even 401 Buick mid engined with the carburetor right between the seats! Bought with paper route money in 1973 when I was 15. "Fan of most anything that moves human beings" |
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#12 |
Post Whore
![]() ![]() Join Date: May 2015
Location: Alabama
Posts: 14,634
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Re: Body panel repair
if your up to the new bedside go with mar-k...you won't be disappointed. ..
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#13 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Toppenish, WA
Posts: 15,503
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Re: Body panel repair
I'm with them, The fenders are real fixable and they look solid with little rust. Do some homework on knocking dents out and go after the easy ones first.
I found some basic dent repair videos that might help a lot. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3W3mJJbnwNg I'd start on the left rear and work it out and then go to one a bit more difficult. If you take the headlight buckets out of the front fenders it lets you reach a long way into the inside of the fender with either a hammer or dolly to work on a lot of that. Saves a lot of dirt in the eyes from being up under the fender.
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Founding member of the too many projects, too little time and money club. My ongoing truck projects: 48 Chev 3100 that will run a 292 Six. 71 GMC 2500 that is getting a Cad 500 transplant. 77 C 30 dualie, 454, 4 speed with a 10 foot flatbed and hoist. It does the heavy work and hauls the projects around. |
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#14 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Motown
Posts: 7,680
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Re: Body panel repair
hammer and dolly my butt
![]() when i had my fenders sand blasted i found over an inch of filler on the step fender i ended up using two 3 lb sledge hammers as my hammer and dolly the most useful sledge had the blunt wedge shape end for working the body lines back in the fender lip ![]() with patience i was able to work 95% of the metal back into shape and used minimal filler the metal is very thick and requires a lot of ''tap tap'' to go back into position never needed to shrink or heat anything ![]() amazingly i thought the fender was dent free for the first 20 years i owned my truk ![]() ![]()
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cool, an ogre smiley ![]() how to put your truck year and build thread into your signature shop air compressor timer |
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#15 |
Post Whore
![]() ![]() Join Date: May 2015
Location: Alabama
Posts: 14,634
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Re: Body panel repair
ogre not play with bent fender...
ogre have big hammer... ogre should know photobucket no worky.....haha |
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#16 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: el campo texas
Posts: 322
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Re: Body panel repair
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#17 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Hebron
Posts: 1,140
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Re: Body panel repair
the upside to fixing fenders like you've got is you can actually get them close with the right hammers and dollies. with some time and work you can get them fairly straight. the repops you can buy will cause you hours and hours of work to get them to fit close, not correct, just close. As far as the bedsides, well that's for someone more experienced than me to answer. You may be able to press the sides out., just guessing though.
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#18 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Motown
Posts: 7,680
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Re: Body panel repair
my bad, photosuckit has been working sort of
i noticed half of my build thread pics showed up
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cool, an ogre smiley ![]() how to put your truck year and build thread into your signature shop air compressor timer |
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#19 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Winder, GA
Posts: 274
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Re: Body panel repair
For about $15, you can get a copy of the book, The Key to Metal Bumping, worth every penny! It was written to teach hammer and dolly work, and will show you how to get those dents out correctly- and you will love your new-found skill!!!
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#20 | |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Hershey, PA
Posts: 1,004
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Re: Body panel repair
Quote:
![]() A few videos and some therapeutic bashing
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Current Build Thread 1930 Ford Model A Modern Twist: Ford Model A Rat Rod With a Modern Twist Build Thread Phase 1 "The Swap": 1949 3100 with S10 swap. Beginner build with ambition! Build Thread Phase 2 "The Drop": Beginner Build with Ambition gets Air Ride |
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#21 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Show Low, Arizona
Posts: 771
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Re: Body panel repair
I have a hammer and dolly set from Eastwood. I think it is pretty similar to the HF. I wouldn't recommend either one.
By the time you tap all the dents out of a fender, it'll seem like you've swung that hammer about a million times. The cheap body tools are heavy and a little crude and you'll wear yourself out using them. I'd buy a couple of name brand hammers, one with a low crown and another with a higher crown. Same for the dolly. Get a good heel dolly and start with that. I've looked at a lot of videos but the best explanation of the process I've found is in the Key to Metal Bumping pamphlet. How you can raise a dent by tapping all around it with a hammer-off technique is so counter-intuitive to me, but that book explains it well. I'd start roughing out those fenders by taking them off the truck and working them from the back side with a fairly high-crown hammer against a shot bag or a sand bag (you can make a good bag by taking the foam out of a small pillow, filling it with sand and then wrapping it with duct tape - sounds crude but works well. Larger bank money bags work well too) I'd be all over DWCSR's offer to have someone who knows what they're doing show you how it is done. Nothing like watching someone who knows what they are doing. +1 on the Mar K bed. You'll pay yourself about $5/hr to fix what you've got compared to the very-straight bedsides from Mar K. I won't use reproduction body parts anymore because it usually costs more to put them right that it would have to repair a decent original. Mar K parts are the exception, and very little body work was required to make them perfect. Metal finishing requires a lot of time and patience. I'm no expert but I have a fair grasp of the fundamentals. I did a front fender apron last week that was creased from a collision and I had about 12 hours in it when it was straight enough for a light coat of Bondo or a couple cycles of Featherfill. If I were doing your fenders, I'd guess I'd have 20-25 hours in them to get them to primer, and a pro metal worker could probably do it in about half that time. My point is, it will take some diligence to get proficient at it to a level where you'll get your desired results. With all due respect to MartinSr, it takes a bit to develop the skill, at least for me it did (and I'm not there yet) |
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#22 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Toppenish, WA
Posts: 15,503
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Re: Body panel repair
I've got the "good" Eastwood set and several body hammers that were bought one at a time over the past 48 years since I got married. I think I bought the first one at Sears 47-1/2 years ago and it is still my go to favorite hammer. I've had the 20 buck cast iron hammer sets but those just make you mad in the long run.
The best part is you can't ruin what you have unless you really mess up beating on the metal. Don't be afraid to dig out the big hammer and dolly either. You might have to have a helper hold an 8 lb sledge hammer head to the outside while you hit the inside to move the metal and not cause more damage but that might be the simple way. Every thing I have read says you should work your way in on a dent from the outside edges and I agree with that. You don't want to hit one of those big dents in the middle with a big hammer and hope to shrink more metal because you stretched it there. Some of those dents will take quite a bit of shrinking work anyhow but that is just part of it. If you have a small bottle jack you might push some of the bigger dents out with it by working your way around the edges of the dent. I did that on my step father's 54 pickup years ago when it had a dent in the rear fender. First dent I ever worked on come to think of it. Read up on it and maybe watch some videos but I'd say the older the body work book you find the more useful info you will find. New books deal with new cars and methods and you want to know how to deal with old trucks and methods that work on them.
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Founding member of the too many projects, too little time and money club. My ongoing truck projects: 48 Chev 3100 that will run a 292 Six. 71 GMC 2500 that is getting a Cad 500 transplant. 77 C 30 dualie, 454, 4 speed with a 10 foot flatbed and hoist. It does the heavy work and hauls the projects around. |
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#23 |
Lost amongst the CORN
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Northern Iowa
Posts: 1,072
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Re: Body panel repair
If you are looking for cheaper body hammers and dollies then look at Daggertools.com They have some very nice hammers and dollies, far better then any cast iron crap from Horror Fright.
You want Pro grade hammers and dollies, then look at Martin. these are my favorite dollies. The two on the right are from Dagger, you WILL NOT find anyone that makes those styles unless you buy some super high end German tools $$$$$. They are old Herbrand patterns. The one on the left is an egg dolly from Martin. ![]() I personally wouldn't remove the fenders for repair unless you build a stand like this. There is nothing worse then working on a panel and have it flop all over the place. You want the panel to be secured. ![]()
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Currently working on How To Videos and custom metal 70 Chevelle gettin Sliced and Diced Anything But STOCK 70 Chevelle SS455 not a typo its a BUICK BABY 49 and 72 Chevy Trucks restored to original...close to it Drommer Stor....Norwegian for Dream Big http://s969.photobucket.com/albums/a...lle/?start=all https://www.flickr.com/photos/47922830@N03/ Pictures of my work and projects Last edited by sevt_chevelle; 08-27-2017 at 06:35 PM. |
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#24 |
Lost amongst the CORN
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Northern Iowa
Posts: 1,072
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Re: Body panel repair
I would strip the fenders to bare metal, then coat them with a magic marker or spray dykem.
![]() Then you can take a long block with 180 grit and it will physically show you where the damage is. ![]() With some skill and the proper tools, metal finishing can be faster and easier then spreading and sanding filler. ![]() After about 5 mins and nothing more then some simple hammer off dolly techniques. ![]() ![]() Another fender that is metal finished and lightly polished with 180 grit to show the smoothness of the surface. ![]() ![]()
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Currently working on How To Videos and custom metal 70 Chevelle gettin Sliced and Diced Anything But STOCK 70 Chevelle SS455 not a typo its a BUICK BABY 49 and 72 Chevy Trucks restored to original...close to it Drommer Stor....Norwegian for Dream Big http://s969.photobucket.com/albums/a...lle/?start=all https://www.flickr.com/photos/47922830@N03/ Pictures of my work and projects |
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#25 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: calgary alberta
Posts: 8,026
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Re: Body panel repair
once you get close a shrinking disc works well to get the high spots down. just gotta do some practice. the magic marker works great. try to use a hard flat sander to find the high/low spots. a soft spongy one will lie to you. also, low pressure at that point because too much pressure can distort the panel.
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