BB header clearance issue

[70STOVEBOLT]

Has anyone run into a clearance issue using Chevelle headers on their big block with stock suspension? Here is my issue: the passenger side front tube hits the rear nut on the lower control arm shaft. The engine is in the stock location using stock 68-71 big block engine stands and mounts. I have good clearance on the frame rail, starter, everywhere except the control arm. The suspension is all stock, including ride height. I can dimple the tube if I have to, but would rather not if someone has another solution. I thought about putting thick washers under the engine stands on the frame and crossmember, but how much clearance do I need if I do this? I have searched the forum literally for hours and cannot find anything on this particular issue.

[un4gvn!]

My Chevelle headers hit on the drivers side lower control arm rear nut. I marked it where it hit and used a ball peen hammer. I put the ball part of the hammer where I marked it and used another hammer to strike the ballpeen hammer and it made a perfect dent. You really have to use a very hard hit. It works pretty good. Now you will have to deal with the transmission cross member.

[70STOVEBOLT]

I have a tubular trans x-member. I knew that would be an issue, but I didn't know about the control arm issue. I had seen pics on here using these headers, but didn't think about the trucks being lowered and using aftermarket control arms. Thanks for the tip about the ball peen hammer.

[midniteblues]

If your using a oe auto colum shifter you might have interference with the lower frame bracket too.


I used early camaro/nova headers and they fit great all around except the bell crank/z bar needed very minor tweaking perhaps since the BBC ball stud mount was available nowhere so I screwed the stud into the block.
Also since I used a car 4spd and got rid of the oe bell c member I wanted a tail shaft c member.

I tried a aftermarket tubular and a square tube c member plus a oe auto c member and my collectors ran rite smack into all of them. So I built a custom member that fit and worked fine.

I did have my truck mocked up with a th400 that's when I noticed the frame bracket for the colum shifter interference.
There is a aftermarket linkage to fix that problem although I never used one.

Jfyi.

[70STOVEBOLT]

Thanks for the heads up I have not gotten that far yet. Dimpled the front tube on the right side for clearance of the control arm. Left side went on with absolutely no problems at all. I fired it up in the garage and it sounds mean as hell. Makes me think hard about an electric cut-out system...

[un4gvn!]

Yeah, the big block sound through open headers sounded great to me too. I bought the Quiktime cutouts from Summit Racing and they work great. You get every thing you need to make them work. I also bought Quiktime's stainless turn downs to direct the sound. Check them out.

[70STOVEBOLT]

Will do, thanks for the info.

[70STOVEBOLT]

Originally Posted by midniteblues

If your using a oe auto colum shifter you might have interference with the lower frame bracket too.


I used early camaro/nova headers and they fit great all around except the bell crank/z bar needed very minor tweaking perhaps since the BBC ball stud mount was available nowhere so I screwed the stud into the block.
Also since I used a car 4spd and got rid of the oe bell c member I wanted a tail shaft c member.

I tried a aftermarket tubular and a square tube c member plus a oe auto c member and my collectors ran rite smack into all of them. So I built a custom member that fit and worked fine.

I did have my truck mocked up with a th400 that's when I noticed the frame bracket for the colum shifter interference.
There is a aftermarket linkage to fix that problem although I never used one.

Jfyi.

I did run into the shift linkage problem you mentioned. I am going to fab my own linkage with rod ends and a modified trans bracket.

[novice]

Dido here. Interference with lower arm nut and mine hit the tubular motor mount perches. I tweaked it and works fine. I also had to modify my clutch z bar.

[midniteblues]

Originally Posted by 70STOVEBOLT

I did run into the shift linkage problem you mentioned. I am going to fab my own linkage with rod ends and a modified trans bracket.

Sounds like a good plan just keep in mind that pesky neutral safety switch location as it don't provide a lot of adjustment.

One thing I tried too keep in mind was frame flex and binding
On anything.

Further down the line of the exhaust since your up into the frame now the e brake cable and trailing arm c member come into play. I cut out circles and reinforced my oe member for the exhaust only to find later on that the drive shaft was to close for comfort to the top of the opening.

A ece c member fixed that.
The long e brake rod on the pass. Side is rideing on my exhaust and the adjuster is on the other side but it seems too work fine.

[70STOVEBOLT]

I am hoping the e-brake cable is not an issue. If so I won’t have an e-brake. I am planning on cutting holes in the trailing arm xmember.