Questions about Quadrajet with integral choke spring

[dmjlambert]

I have a Quadrajet M4ME carburetor from 1986 part number 17085226 on my 1969 CST/10 with 350 engine.

I was reading this article from Hemmings Muscle Machines June 2007 where it talks about adjustment of the choke. They say 2 notches rich is a good starting point.

online article https://www.hemmings.com/magazine/mu...t/1466641.html

I see the index marks on the housing, but I don't see any sort of mark on the plastic cover that would line up with the index marks.

So, the question is 2 notches from where? Do I need to find some sort of starting point based on movement of the choke plate, and mark it myself on the plastic cover? What was the "proper" way to do this?

My Quadrajet before installation:


My Quadrajet a year later:


You can see after being on the truck a while, some surface rust is appearing on some parts such as linkages, fuel inlet, and choke screw plates. Is there something good to put on those few steel parts of the Quadrajet to get it looking good again and to keep it looking good?

I normally have the electric choke connected to 12V key-on power, just have it disconnected for the photo.

[dmjlambert]

ttt

[WorkinLonghorn]

When I used a choke I remember just waiting until a cold morning then loosen the three screws and turn the housing until the choke is almost closed then tighten the screws. Give a couple pumps of the throttle peddle and fire it up, it should stay running on it's own. If not, adjust the fast idle cam a little. Drive it around until the temp gauge is moving up to it's normal position, blip the throttle and it should settle down to the regular idle speed. Pull over and see if the choke is fully open. Never paid any attention to marks. -BA

[Steeveedee]

You can get a plating kit to color the parts and protect them from rusting so quickly. Working longhorn got your question about the choke answered, except with the M4ME, you just slightly increase the speed, then let off to get the idle down...I'm pretty sure. The older ones, like on my '70, you can blip the throttle.

Plating kit:

https://www.caswellplating.com/elect...ting-kits.html

[aerotest]

In the picture you provded the choke is set near full rich. Swinging the terminal lads to the left will back it off. Where it sits now scribe a mark at the full left housing tick. That will pretty close.

[davischevy]

Originally Posted by WorkinLonghorn

When I used a choke I remember just waiting until a cold morning then loosen the three screws and turn the housing until the choke is almost closed then tighten the screws. Give a couple pumps of the throttle peddle and fire it up, it should stay running on it's own. If not, adjust the fast idle cam a little. Drive it around until the temp gauge is moving up to it's normal position, blip the throttle and it should settle down to the regular idle speed. Pull over and see if the choke is fully open. Never paid any attention to marks. -BA

What I do.

[87Skier]

Originally Posted by WorkinLonghorn

When I used a choke I remember just waiting until a cold morning then loosen the three screws and turn the housing until the choke is almost closed then tighten the screws. Give a couple pumps of the throttle peddle and fire it up, it should stay running on it's own. If not, adjust the fast idle cam a little. Drive it around until the temp gauge is moving up to it's normal position, blip the throttle and it should settle down to the regular idle speed. Pull over and see if the choke is fully open. Never paid any attention to marks. -BA

That's pretty much what I did as well too.

Didn't have any starting problems from 10 degrees F to about 90. Never saw any temps it didn't like.