1980 GMC K25 - Farm Truck from Hell!

[Devilman]

Originally Posted by MTCK

Cool truck. I’ll be following along. If you are going for a look fire away but 35’s with a 4” lift usually work fine. Less driveline steering etc issues too.

^^^He's right you know! Low lift and big tires looks the best. I just finished up an 84 K30 for a buddy with deaver leafs 2.5" front & 1" rear, wheel vintiques 16x8, factory dog dishes and 315/75/16 Toyos. It looks perfect and rides awesome! I'll get some pics the next time he drives it to the station.

[MrBeast]

Originally Posted by MTCK

Cool truck. I’ll be following along. If you are going for a look fire away but 35’s with a 4” lift usually work fine. Less driveline steering etc issues too.

Originally Posted by Devilman

^^^He's right you know! Low lift and big tires looks the best. I just finished up an 84 K30 for a buddy with deaver leafs 2.5" front & 1" rear, wheel vintiques 16x8, factory dog dishes and 315/75/16 Toyos. It looks perfect and rides awesome! I'll get some pics the next time he drives it to the station.

I know from experience you guys are right, growing up in Montana the guys who put the crazy stupid lifts on their trucks could never handle the side hills!

Ideally what I want to do is a 6" lift with the 35's and a D60 in front with crossover steering, if I go with the Ranger gear box this means I will likely not have to shorten my back shaft, just get a longer front shaft, which will help with the drive-line angles anyways.

If you are lifting much more than that, you really need to cut the C's and rotate them so the drive shaft is more inline with the yoke, otherwise you are deciding if you want to have a really bad caster angle, or a really bad angle on the U-Joints!

Another thing that makes a huge difference is sway-bars with disconnects. I have found that really makes a difference when you do a lot of driving your truck on the street.