Truck wonders - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

MHeffeGMC71 · 03-13-2018, 02:47 PM

Morning all, well my question is what do I need to add rack and pinion to my truck. I did a LS 6.0 swap in my truck and want it to be more user friendly when I drive. I replaced all the suspension back to factory new. But the truck still wonders and has bump steer when I let off the gas. Thanks

**LockDoc** · 03-13-2018, 03:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MHeffeGMC71

Morning all, well my question is what do I need to add rack and pinion to my truck. I did a LS 6.0 swap in my truck and want it to be more user friendly when I drive. I replaced all the suspension back to factory new. But the truck still wonders and has bump steer when I let off the gas. Thanks

Your problem might be because your center link is installed backwards. The nuts on the joints should be facing forward. That changes everything....

LockDoc

demian5 · 03-13-2018, 03:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LockDoc

Your problem might be because your center link is installed backwards.....

LockDoc

See above

KevinR · 03-13-2018, 04:22 PM

I am in the midst of a bolt in install from Flaming River. I will update you on any difference in driveability. Also, I can’t speak to fitment with an LS. I am installing with a 250 L6 and will require a roughly 1/2 in motor mount lift.

Kevin

**LockDoc** · 03-13-2018, 04:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by demian5

See above

Not understanding what you mean....

He said his truck "still wanders and has bump steer when I let off the gas" and I said the problem might be because his center link is installed backwards, which it is, and which could cause the problems he is seeing. He may not need to go to the trouble and expense of installing a rack if correcting that regains his "driver friendliness"

Cryptic posts don't add anything to the thread.

LockDoc

demian5 · 03-13-2018, 05:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LockDoc

Your problem might be because your center link is installed backwards. The nuts on the joints should be facing forward. That changes everything....

LockDoc

x2

Is that better? LOL!

weq92f · 03-13-2018, 05:28 PM

It's a wOnder the truck doesn't wAnder with that thang thataway.

harpo231 · 03-13-2018, 05:38 PM

see above = what Doc said or x2

**clay68c10** · 03-13-2018, 05:45 PM

Flip that center link and save a few bucks! With everything new it should drive pretty well.

**LockDoc** · 03-13-2018, 06:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by demian5

x2

Is that better? LOL!

Much better. Thanks.

LockDoc

MHeffeGMC71 · 03-13-2018, 07:42 PM

First off thanks for all the helpful replies. I just came from my new mechanic who's going to switch it around for me we'll see if that solves the problem.

Take a sec to enjoy how far I've come from when I first got this suspension redone on this truck true craftsmanship

**HO455** · 03-13-2018, 08:23 PM

Yup, don't see that everyday. Reminds me of the Burban I looked at buying that had the springs removed to lower it.
Good job on cleaning that mess up.

**LockDoc** · 03-13-2018, 09:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MHeffeGMC71

First off thanks for all the helpful replies. I just came from my new mechanic who's going to switch it around for me we'll see if that solves the problem.

Take a sec to enjoy how far I've come from when I first got this suspension redone on this truck true craftsmanship

Good deal. Keep us up to speed on the outcome.

LockDoc

superhondaz50 · 03-13-2018, 10:14 PM

Ok well ****, now I just realized my centerlink is on backwards. More work for me. Yay.

superhondaz50 · 03-14-2018, 11:34 AM

Any advice on removing the pitman arm and idler arm from the centerlink without ruining my brand new parts and dust boots?

AK49Watson · 03-14-2018, 11:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by superhondaz50

Any advice on removing the pitman arm and idler arm from the centerlink without ruining my brand new parts and dust boots?

Use the right tools. Pickle fork or ball joint remover. They're brand new, shouldn't be hard to remove.

*randy500* · 03-14-2018, 12:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by superhondaz50

Any advice on removing the pitman arm and idler arm from the centerlink without ruining my brand new parts and dust boots?

To try to save the boots I would use an air chisel. I would pad it with brass or aluminum and hammer on the threaded end of the pitman and idler arm. Do the same on the tie rod end if you can get to it.
Or, use the pickle fork as a pry bar while using the air chisel on the tie rod arm. Try to not let the pickle fork contact the rubber with this method.

Lastly you could put force pulling the tapered joint(tie rod, Idler, pitman) while hitting the side of the female taper with a large hammer.

**leddzepp** · 03-14-2018, 01:12 PM

You need a puller for the pitman arm. Local autozone loans the tool for free. You can also buy it at harbor freight for about $8. Smack the side of the centerlink with a sledgehammer to remove the idler arm, it should pop right out since it’s new. I use a pickle fork on old stuff that’s coming out to be replaced, where damage to the rubber boot doesn’t matter.

superhondaz50 · 03-14-2018, 01:30 PM

Ok cool. I have a pitman puller, but wasn't planning to pull the pitman arm off the gearbox.
Was thinking:
Unscrew each tierod connector, leave the tie rods on the centerlink. Then remove the centerlink from the idler and pitman (tapered side). Then flip it 180. That'd put the tierod bolts frontwards.

I can prob make a brass rod to fit into my air chisel. Since they're new, make just smacking the centerlink with a dead blow hammer would free it? IDK, just don't wanna ruin $100 worth of new Moog parts.

*randy500* · 03-14-2018, 04:39 PM

Hitting it will knock the tapered joint loose but hitting it without pressure pulling it outwards will probably not do anything. They also make a screw type tie rod puller which may fit the idler and pitman arm, I'm just not sure of the fit, they usually don't fit well. If you can borrow one at oreillys or autozone it would be worth a try.

I suspect you have a recent alignment....you could save that alignment by measuring the toe in before you change the parts out and then adjusting to the same spec after the switch.
To replicate the toe in, roll the tires over 2 layers of plastic sheeting, thick black garbage bag pieces(reduces friction of tire on the ground), wire a board across each tire through the wheels, measure the distance front and rear of the tire using the boards, subtract front from rear distance to get current toe in.
Adjust each side equally to replicate this distance once you switch the parts out.

superhondaz50 · 03-14-2018, 06:19 PM

Hasn't been aligned yet, still assembling it.

MHeffeGMC71 · 03-16-2018, 10:35 AM

So after some more looking around we found this too

Perpendicular · 03-16-2018, 11:43 AM

Wait, are the A-Arms connected to the frame with U bolts?

-Paul

**LockDoc** · 03-16-2018, 12:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MHeffeGMC71

So after some more looking around we found this too

Ooops! That doesn't look good.

LockDoc

Artofdeath · 03-16-2018, 12:42 PM

subscribed, wanna see how this turns out!

03-13-2018, 02:47 PM	#1
MHeffeGMC71 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2017 Location: Harlingen Texas Posts: 30	Truck wonders Morning all, well my question is what do I need to add rack and pinion to my truck. I did a LS 6.0 swap in my truck and want it to be more user friendly when I drive. I replaced all the suspension back to factory new. But the truck still wonders and has bump steer when I let off the gas. Thanks Attached Images

03-13-2018, 04:22 PM	#4
KevinR Registered User Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: IN Posts: 55	Re: Truck wonders I am in the midst of a bolt in install from Flaming River. I will update you on any difference in driveability. Also, I can’t speak to fitment with an LS. I am installing with a 250 L6 and will require a roughly 1/2 in motor mount lift. Kevin

03-13-2018, 05:28 PM	#7
weq92f Registered User Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Dallas Texas Posts: 3,218	Re: Truck wonders It's a wOnder the truck doesn't wAnder with that thang thataway. __________________ 67 C10 fleet fuel injected '70 402, 700r4, 3.73 posi 07 335 sport turbo 6sp 94 Trans Am GT LT1 6sp posi -- sold after 22yrs 99 540 sport V8 6sp -- sold 73 240z L24 4sp -- given to friend 68 C10 step 350/350 3.73 open -- sold

03-13-2018, 05:38 PM	#8
harpo231 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Lincoln City DE Posts: 1,292	Re: Truck wonders see above = what Doc said or x2 __________________ Stan 67 swb BLU MULE posted via flip-fone

03-13-2018, 05:45 PM	#9
clay68c10 Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Centennial, CO Posts: 2,990	Re: Truck wonders Flip that center link and save a few bucks! With everything new it should drive pretty well. __________________ ClusterTruck: 68 C10 Bought in 89, wrecked in 03. Slow low $ rebuild started '17. 6.0 & TKO http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=788602 93 K1500 Short Step, 350, NV4500, EBL flash ECU. Vortec heads & roller cam someday... 05 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited. 3” lift & 6-speed 02 E320 the insurance total “free car” 13 Tahoe LTZ

03-13-2018, 07:42 PM	#11
MHeffeGMC71 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2017 Location: Harlingen Texas Posts: 30	Re: Truck wonders First off thanks for all the helpful replies. I just came from my new mechanic who's going to switch it around for me we'll see if that solves the problem. Take a sec to enjoy how far I've come from when I first got this suspension redone on this truck true craftsmanship Attached Images

03-13-2018, 08:23 PM	#12
HO455 Post Whore Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Portland Oregon Posts: 11,350	Re: Truck wonders Yup, don't see that everyday. Reminds me of the Burban I looked at buying that had the springs removed to lower it. Good job on cleaning that mess up. __________________ Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377

03-13-2018, 10:14 PM	#14
superhondaz50 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Behind the Taco Bell dumpster Posts: 296	Re: Truck wonders Ok well ***, now I just realized my centerlink is on backwards. More work for me. Yay. Last edited by superhondaz50; 03-14-2018 at 12:06 AM.*

03-14-2018, 11:34 AM	#15
superhondaz50 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Behind the Taco Bell dumpster Posts: 296	Re: Truck wonders Any advice on removing the pitman arm and idler arm from the centerlink without ruining my brand new parts and dust boots?

03-14-2018, 01:12 PM	#18
leddzepp Moderator Join Date: May 2007 Location: Southern Cal Posts: 20,031	Re: Truck wonders You need a puller for the pitman arm. Local autozone loans the tool for free. You can also buy it at harbor freight for about $8. Smack the side of the centerlink with a sledgehammer to remove the idler arm, it should pop right out since it’s new. I use a pickle fork on old stuff that’s coming out to be replaced, where damage to the rubber boot doesn’t matter. __________________ 1972 C/10 Cheyenne Super SWB. Restored, loaded, slammed. 1968 C/10 50th Anniversary LWB. Unrestored, stock, daily driver/work truck. RIP ElJay RIP 67ChevyRedneck RIP Grumpy Old Man RIP FleetsidePaul

03-14-2018, 01:30 PM	#19
superhondaz50 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Behind the Taco Bell dumpster Posts: 296	Re: Truck wonders Ok cool. I have a pitman puller, but wasn't planning to pull the pitman arm off the gearbox. Was thinking: Unscrew each tierod connector, leave the tie rods on the centerlink. Then remove the centerlink from the idler and pitman (tapered side). Then flip it 180. That'd put the tierod bolts frontwards. I can prob make a brass rod to fit into my air chisel. Since they're new, make just smacking the centerlink with a dead blow hammer would free it? IDK, just don't wanna ruin $100 worth of new Moog parts.

03-14-2018, 04:39 PM	#20
randy500 Account Suspended Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Tacoma, WA Posts: 6,873	Re: Truck wonders Hitting it will knock the tapered joint loose but hitting it without pressure pulling it outwards will probably not do anything. They also make a screw type tie rod puller which may fit the idler and pitman arm, I'm just not sure of the fit, they usually don't fit well. If you can borrow one at oreillys or autozone it would be worth a try. I suspect you have a recent alignment....you could save that alignment by measuring the toe in before you change the parts out and then adjusting to the same spec after the switch. To replicate the toe in, roll the tires over 2 layers of plastic sheeting, thick black garbage bag pieces(reduces friction of tire on the ground), wire a board across each tire through the wheels, measure the distance front and rear of the tire using the boards, subtract front from rear distance to get current toe in. Adjust each side equally to replicate this distance once you switch the parts out.

03-14-2018, 06:19 PM	#21
superhondaz50 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Behind the Taco Bell dumpster Posts: 296	Re: Truck wonders Hasn't been aligned yet, still assembling it.

03-16-2018, 10:35 AM	#22
MHeffeGMC71 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2017 Location: Harlingen Texas Posts: 30	Re: Truck wonders So after some more looking around we found this too Attached Images

03-16-2018, 11:43 AM	#23
Perpendicular Registered User Join Date: May 2017 Location: Elgin, TX Posts: 322	Re: Truck wonders Wait, are the A-Arms connected to the frame with U bolts? -Paul



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03-16-2018, 12:42 PM	#25
Artofdeath Registered User Join Date: Jul 2017 Location: Sandusky, Ohio USA Posts: 104	Re: Truck wonders subscribed, wanna see how this turns out!

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