C10 Suburban Cummins

[Dieselwrencher]

That is the torque converter heat exchanger. On a Texas truck with a 727 I'd just toss it and put a good after market cooler in front of the radiator.

[Peanutbutter]

When I go down this road again I will put a block off plate on the gear housing and belt drive a common ps pump and go hydraboost. The marriage vacuum pump and ps pump can be a real pain if you get a bad shaft and seal on the ps pump. As long as you have the gear housing off make sure you put a fix on the killer dowl pin or it may destroy the whole motor. I was lucky, dowl pin fell down and instead of going between the two gears it got caught between the gear and tin cover, when I pulled the timing cover it looked like you had shot it with a 45 ACP from the inside out. Could'nt figure out where all the oil was coming from.

[MONTE]

Thanks for all the information guys. First time working on diesels for me.
Got a few parts today:
Gear housing
Expansion plugs
Water inlet seal
Water pump
Changing all the gaskets other than manifold and head.
Waiting on the Killer dowel pin to come in.

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by MONTE

Thanks for all the information guys. First time working on diesels for me.
Got a few parts today:
Gear housing
Expansion plugs
Water inlet seal
Water pump
Changing all the gaskets other than manifold and head.
Waiting on the Killer dowel pin to come in.

Buying those parts from Mopar sounds pricey. Make sure you replace the oil cooler gaskets. I'd go ahead and do the cooler too if it has a lot of miles on it. Those early ones are known to leak and cause headaches. Make sure if your crankshaft has a groove worn in it that you get a seal with a wear sleeve other wise you will be having leaks again. That goes with the rear main seal too.

[MONTE]

I'll look into the oil cooler next.
Looks like a reman one will run about $200-$300.
Should I apply any type of permatex with the expansion plugs or just press them in?

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by Peanutbutter

When I go down this road again I will put a block off plate on the gear housing and belt drive a common ps pump and go hydraboost. The marriage vacuum pump and ps pump can be a real pain if you get a bad shaft and seal on the ps pump. As long as you have the gear housing off make sure you put a fix on the killer dowl pin or it may destroy the whole motor. I was lucky, dowl pin fell down and instead of going between the two gears it got caught between the gear and tin cover, when I pulled the timing cover it looked like you had shot it with a 45 ACP from the inside out. Could'nt figure out where all the oil was coming from.

The power steering pumps have a drive coupler that is pressed on the pump shaft. That is a wear item and can be purchased with a new or reman pump. I can't tell you how many of these vac/ps pumps I've resealed and have no issues with them. I have had some severly worn ones I've had to source odd parts for but I still wouldn't hang a different pump off the side and run another belt to drive it. You can run hydroboost with a non hydroboost pump. You just have to either t the return or add a return to your reservoir on the pump.