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03-29-2018, 06:04 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Donna, Texas
Posts: 286
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Re: C20/cummins 12 valve
Thanks for all the information guys. First time working on diesels for me.
Got a few parts today: Gear housing Expansion plugs Water inlet seal Water pump Changing all the gaskets other than manifold and head. Waiting on the Killer dowel pin to come in. |
03-29-2018, 07:02 PM | #2 |
6>8 Plugless........
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Prairie City, Ia
Posts: 17,140
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Re: C20/cummins 12 valve
Buying those parts from Mopar sounds pricey. Make sure you replace the oil cooler gaskets. I'd go ahead and do the cooler too if it has a lot of miles on it. Those early ones are known to leak and cause headaches. Make sure if your crankshaft has a groove worn in it that you get a seal with a wear sleeve other wise you will be having leaks again. That goes with the rear main seal too.
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Ryan 1972 Chevy Longhorn K30 Cheyenne Super, 359 Inline 6 cylinder, Auto Trans, Tilt, Diesel Tach/Vach, Buckets, Rare Rear 4-link and air ride option Build Thread 1972 GMC Sierra Grande Longhorn 4x4 1972 Chevy Cheyenne Super K20 Long Step side tilt, tach, tow hooks, AC, 350 4 speed 1972 C10 Suburban Custom Deluxe 1969 Chevy milk truck 1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR STG3 Cam Super T10 1940 Ford 354 Hemi 46RH Ford 9" on air ride huge project Tired of spark plugs? Check this out. |
03-30-2018, 12:09 AM | #3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Donna, Texas
Posts: 286
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Re: C20/cummins 12 valve
I'll look into the oil cooler next.
Looks like a reman one will run about $200-$300. Should I apply any type of permatex with the expansion plugs or just press them in? |
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