07-28-2018, 01:41 PM | #1 |
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Help ID my rear end?
I was expecting a different configuration on my 69 C20, my rear drum comes off without the hub attached, I also am seeing a different set of retaining nut... I was planning on having to remove the hub to service the drums, full replace down the cylinder... do I still have to remove hub since the drum comes off without the hub? These are the only markings on the rear end I could find, no mention of HD rear on the glove box paper slip...
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07-28-2018, 02:05 PM | #2 |
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Re: Help ID my rear end?
Welcome
If you are just doing the brakes you do not have to remove the hub. Just make sure the hub spins free and you don't have play in the bearings. About what type of Rear axle someone else may can tell you from those pics. A full picture of the rear cover would help. Looks like a Dana rearend the little bit I can see of the cover. When you put it all back together/ Make sure to park it on a slope or jack it up one side at a time. Reason for this is so that the rear-end oil will flow to your wheel bearings and fill that cavity back up.
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07-28-2018, 02:29 PM | #3 |
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Re: Help ID my rear end?
Hope this helps!
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07-28-2018, 03:08 PM | #4 |
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Re: Help ID my rear end?
Dana 60 and there is a gear ration tag still attached to the cover bolt.
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07-28-2018, 03:16 PM | #5 |
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Re: Help ID my rear end?
https://www.bing.com/images/search?v...nfiqvFONP6cJKE
Like Patch said Under the grease on one of the bottom bolts there is still a tag. A lot of people throw those away. Don't know why??
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07-29-2018, 10:46 AM | #6 |
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Re: Help ID my rear end?
I would still pull the hubs and pack the bearings with grease. That is directly from the service manual.
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08-01-2018, 09:28 PM | #7 |
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Re: Help ID my rear end?
one side was good, no play in the hub, but the wheel cylinder is the cause of my brake problems and leak. The hub on the other side has front to back and in/out movement. Looked in the fluid and its got shavings, might just be from the bearings but who knows...
Maybe cheaper/easier to replace the whole rear end? or is this worth saving or rebuilding? |
08-01-2018, 11:51 PM | #8 | |
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Re: Help ID my rear end?
Quote:
Worth saving for Sure Yes. This is a TUFF rear axle. Just stuff to think about 1st : proper Identity of rear axle you have. 2nd : cost of wheel cylinders (both sides) (cost #1) 3rd:Are the bearing races tight in the hubs.(4 Bearings and race set cost #2) 4th : If Bearing races (are tight) don't spin inside the hub . (probably not but you need to check this) If the races are loose in the hubs . (cost of 1 or 2 hubs.) just something to consider. check every thing before you spend a lot of money on this axle. This axle is already in place so if parts are ready and available go for it. 5th: I would Suggest Very strongly that if you don't have one all ready Please purchase a socket to tighten and loosen the nuts for the hub.
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08-02-2018, 07:11 PM | #9 |
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Re: Help ID my rear end?
It is important to note that this is a Dan 60 full-floating axle, as opposed to a semi-floating axle. This will make a difference when looking for parts.
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08-02-2018, 09:42 PM | #10 | |
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Re: Help ID my rear end?
Quote:
Would that be different parts for just the gears, hubs, bearing etc or does that include the brake items as well? I haven’t been back to the parts store yet, wondering if I will need different pads, brake cylinders, and spring kits... |
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08-04-2018, 06:36 PM | #11 |
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Re: Help ID my rear end?
So I went to find the BOM number to identify the rear end, and it loooks like the number is gone... someone welded a bracket to keep the brake line in place right over the numbers... I can only make out part of one number... I keep reading that this is the only place this BOM number appears on the rear end.
I did get a clearer look at the number I can see on the pumpkin, and it’s C30255. The only mention of this number I could find is from a Ford forum, someone saying it comes from a 60’s-70’s 3/4 ton ford. |
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