Project 1966 K20 adventure rig

[72cs20]

Here is the beginning of my effort to put together a cool back country travelling 66' K20. Right now I'm in a parts search and acquisition phase. Things like later style axles, power steering, update the brake system and bigger fuel behind the rear axle to start off. When I do the axle swaps I'll also rebuild the suspension. Then complete new wiring, interior work and more than likely Vintage Air.

That is the plan overview. The subject -


Right now I need to get the truck to drive and handle safely so I can actually use it. The first problem to be tackled is the worn out driver side lower knuckle bearing. So far I've gotten the knuckle assembly torn down and ready for the new parts, which should be here early this week. The upper bearing seems to be in good shape, but both will be replaced.

Knuckle dis-assembled and ready for new bearings -


Dis-integrated lower bearing -


Along with this repair, I'll be setting up the power steering conversion for use with this closed knuckle axle. Then it will be an easy change over when the open knuckle axle goes in.

More soon...

[jdl71]

Sub'd.

[66K20]

This will definitely be a fun build to watch.

[jcramsey]

Looking forward to this one. Saw your camper in you daily driver build. Looks awesome!

[72cs20]

Alright guys, thanks for following along with this one. I've been making some progress in my effort to get this truck safely road worthy.

I got the new knuckle bearing set for the drivers side installed and everything went in no problem. Knuckle re-assembled -


Brake drum and hub all re-assembled -


Now here is a pic of what I will be installing into this truck in the near future -


This is a Dana 44 and 14 bolt set from about 1976. My gearing and differential options will be greatly expanded with these axles. Parts cost should be way lower too.

I also started my power steering conversion. The steering box is mounted to the frame with Capt. Fab's adapter plate. The provided 2wd frame template works well with the 4wd frame to get the steering box located in the right spot.


Drag link -



Interestingly I will be using the Ididit tilt column from my recently sold 62 C20(link in sig)for this truck.. The nice man I sold the 62 to is going with an Ididit column for an automatic trans and has offered the manual trans column back to me for use in this 66 K20. The 62 now resides in Phoenix, Az. so keep an eye out for it you guys in Phoenix.

[72cs20]

This week my new old Ididit steering column arrived from Phoenix. So I got to work on finishing the power steering installation using the Ididit column and the stock 66 steering wheel. When this column was in the 62, I had a fancy wood Grant three spoke steering wheel installed. I never really liked that steering wheel. To me it was too small in diameter and had too much "dish". I like the stock 60-66 wheel more.

On Ididit's website they say the stock 60-66 steering wheel will not fit on the column they sell for the 60-66 trucks. On the phone Ididit told me that some wheels fit and some don't and to just try fitting it. Well mine fit so that is what I'm using this time.


As with the last truck I'm sticking with Ididit's telescoping intermediate shaft and u-joints at each end. No rag joint. Intermediate shaft marked for cutting and fitment -


Shaft and u-joints installed -


The engine in this truck had only a single groove crank pulley. So I picked up a new double groove pulley with an add on single groove. The PS pump uses the third groove out. Had to ditch the 1/2 inch long crank pulley bolts for some new 3/4 inch versions -


The steering box, pump and hoses were all ordered for a 73 K20. The v-belt is a Gates 36 1/8 inch belt. The belt actually could be an inch shorter. That would keep the pump reservoir cap out from under the alternator. But right now it works fine.

[72cs20]

The 73 K20 hoses are a very good initial fit. They could use a little tweeking with a bender. I wish I could figure out where I put mine.


Bottom view of pump with mounting bracket -



I used a simple bracket from Alan Grove Components. It utilizes the two threaded holes that were used for the engine mounts on the 55-59 V8 trucks, with the support arm going to a motor mount bolt. It all fit perfectly.


The end result is a huge success. It is now pinky finger steering effort. No leaks or noises. Woohoo!

Next up is to figure out what do with the engine. It leaks from all over so it needs to come out to be re-sealed at minimum. But if I'm going to pull it, it probably should be gone through. Cost for a 327 re-build for torque or do a crate engine? Decisions, decisions. Inputs welcome.

[raylube]

Looks good . Can you give some info on steering arm modifications?

[72cs20]

Sure. It was shortened one inch and welded back together and then plated top and bottom.

[72cs20]

Time for an update.

For the last month or so I've been gathering parts and getting the truck ready for modification. I'm starting at the rear and will be working forward. The changes from the cab rearward will be a 31 gallon fuel tank, 73+ rear suspension and the 14 bolt rear axle.

First task was to remove the bed. I built a head frame and used a cheap 2000lb chain hoist to lift the bed and drive the truck out from under it. Then it was set down onto my trailer.



Truck back in the garage. Much easier to work on without the bed.

[jdl71]

Whats your plans for the old stuff you're removing?

[72cs20]

I'm really trying to keep this project as simple as possible and still meet my goals. I need this truck trip ready by May, so I'm going to mainly focus on mechanicals, electrical system and the interior of the cab. Not going to worry too much about cosmetics, although I will give the back half of the frame a cleaning and some rustoleum flat black.

Out goes the Eaton and rear suspension.



I'm going with the 73-87 rear suspension to eliminate the nearly 6 inch tall lift blocks. And it's less expensive than rebuilding the stock setup. This should also give the proper spring pad width for the 14 bolt.

Right now is the mockup phase to get the leaf springs at the correct height and angle. Then I'll set the axle in place to see how the pinion angle looks. I'm trying to keep pinion angle of the 14 bolt the same as the Eaton angle of zero degrees with the spring pad angle of about 6-7 degrees forward.

Here is the rear hanger installed where it will remain.


Here is the front hanger clamped in place. There is a good bit of up or down adjustability here to get the angle of the spring set to where I think it should be.


Here is the whole assembly mocked up. The spring angle is 11 degrees and I'm looking for 6-7, so the front hanger needs to come up a bit. I still need to measure the spring pad angle to pinion angle on the 14 bolt to be sure of how much.


One thing I will say is that every fastener thus far has been fighting me all the way. The dis-assembly so far has been challenging to say the least. The complete opposite from the last truck. But I'm winning!

[72cs20]

I'm still trying to decide whether or not to use the 327 or move to a later 350 truck engine of some type. The numbers on the 327 show it to be a 1963 factory 250 hp 4bbl engine. Not too shabby. I don't know if it makes a good truck engine or not. I know they spin up pretty well but do they have good low end torque? I just don't know how these motors are set up. But I still have a few months to figure it out.

One thing I will keep initially is the Rockwell T-case. It seems to be in good shape. It shifts easily, doesn't make any bad noises and doesn't leak (so far).

In addition to the front and rear axle swap, here are some of the parts that I've gathered for the driveline upgrades.

Later bellhousing with the larger index hole.


That's it for now. Be back soon.

Ranger Torque Splitter overdrive.


Fully rebuilt SM465 4speed.


And the 31 gallon baffled K5 blazer fuel tank. This will get an in-tank fuel for the fuel injection I'll be using. TBI most likely.

[72cs20]

Originally Posted by jdl71

Whats your plans for the old stuff you're removing?

Don't really know yet, but I'll using the brake cables for patterns to have some new ones made for the 14 bolt. My cables are intact but completely frozen.

Do you still need pics of the brake cables? You mentioned something about that in another thread. If so, I can post some.

[jdl71]

Originally Posted by 72cs20

Don't really know yet, but I'll using the brake cables for patterns to have some new ones made for the 14 bolt. My cables are intact but completely frozen.

Do you still need pics of the brake cables? You mentioned something about that in another thread. If so, I can post some.

That's what I was wondering about. I think I got a good enough view from one of the pics with the bed off. Your cable setup looks just like mine and those rear cables seem to be almost unobtainium. I did find today that inline tube lists them, but there's no pic or specs. I'm going to call them tomorrow and see if they can give me some more info, they list regular zinc coated for $55 and stainless for $65.

I don't mean to tell you what to do with your stuff so please don't take it that way but some of that eaton stuff is getting super hard to find, especially from the backing plate out. I hope you will consider offering it for sale before it goes to scrap.

[jdl71]

Originally Posted by 72cs20

I'm really trying to keep this project as simple as possible and still meet my goals. I need this truck trip ready by May, so I'm going to mainly focus on mechanicals, electrical system and the interior of the cab. Not going to worry too much about cosmetics, although I will give the back half of the frame a cleaning and some rustoleum flat black.

Out goes the Eaton and rear suspension.
Attachment 1827381
Attachment 1827382

I'm going with the 73-87 rear suspension to eliminate the nearly 6 inch tall lift blocks. And it's less expensive than rebuilding the stock setup. This should also give the proper spring pad width for the 14 bolt.

Right now is the mockup phase to get the leaf springs at the correct height and angle. Then I'll set the axle in place to see how the pinion angle looks. I'm trying to keep pinion angle of the 14 bolt the same as the Eaton angle of zero degrees with the spring pad angle of about 6-7 degrees forward.

Here is the rear hanger installed where it will remain.
Attachment 1827383

Here is the front hanger clamped in place. There is a good bit of up or down adjustability here to get the angle of the spring set to where I think it should be.
Attachment 1827384

Here is the whole assembly mocked up. The spring angle is 11 degrees and I'm looking for 6-7, so the front hanger needs to come up a bit. I still need to measure the spring pad angle to pinion angle on the 14 bolt to be sure of how much.
Attachment 1827385

One thing I will say is that every fastener thus far has been fighting me all the way. The dis-assembly so far has been challenging to say the least. The complete opposite from the last truck. But I'm winning!

Are those off the shelf 52" springs?

[72cs20]

I hear you about the Eaton stuff. This is a good one and isn't going to scrap. I'll keep it around until the project is up and running.

If you would, please post back here what info you got from Inline Tube.

[72cs20]

Originally Posted by jdl71

Are those off the shelf 52" springs?

Yes they are. 2800 lbs rated each. I wanted to use the 56" springs as they are rated 3500 lbs, but that would take up too much frame space towards the rear.

[jdl71]

Originally Posted by 72cs20

I hear you about the Eaton stuff. This is a good one and isn't going to scrap. I'll keep it around until the project is up and running.

If you would, please post back here what info you got from Inline Tube.

I called Inline tube and asked for specs on the rear cable. Whoever I was talking to couldn't find any, took my number and said he'd have someone from the cable department call me. That was yesterday morning. I've heard nothing. Not terribly impressed. I ordered a pre bent fuel line from them a couple years ago for my 64 and I'm not sure what pattern they used but I could have just about as well myself so this is strike two.

Where are you getting your cables made? I'm at a stand still until I either get a new one, get the old one freed up (been soaking about a week now) or put it back in to fill the hole for now so I can put the brakes back together. I hate to order that and it be wrong. I can get the wrong cable here in town.

[72cs20]

Contact this company and see what they say - Control Cables Inc (controlcables.com) or 562 949-0455. I here good things about this outfit. They do make cables from your old ones. In fact, I was going to try and use Inline Tube but I may just call these guys first. My experience with Inline Tube has also been underwhelming.

Like yours, mine are also frozen solid.

[jdl71]

Originally Posted by 72cs20

Yes they are. 2800 lbs rated each. I wanted to use the 56" springs as they are rated 3500 lbs, but that would take up too much frame space towards the rear.

Aren’t the stock rear springs also 52”? How are you getting lift without the blocks? The new hangers?

[72cs20]

Originally Posted by jdl71

Aren’t the stock rear springs also 52”? How are you getting lift without the blocks? The new hangers?

Yes, the stock springs are 52 inches. I'm using 73-87 frame brackets to get rid of the lift blocks. In the photos above I did a mockup of the passenger side rear spring using factory 73-87 K20 frame brackets. I'm not really liking how that is working out. Later this week I'll have plan B mocked up, which I think will give me the spring angle I'm looking for as well as a cleaner look.

I'll post the photos in a few days

[72cs20]

The new rear axle and suspension mock-up is basically done. I didn't like the stock type 73-87 spring hangers. I instead went with 73-87 shackle flip hangers from Off Road Design. I used two sets of rear hangers to do the job using the shackle flip on the rear.

Here is one of the hangers used for the passenger side front end of spring -



Rear hanger with the shackle flip -

[72cs20]

Here are some more pics from different angles.

Passenger side -


Driver side -


Inside of driver side -


Rear view passenger side -


Finished -

[jdl71]

Looks good. Can this be done with the Eaton also or are the mounting pads on the axle housing different?