Powder Coating - stuff

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

I'm having a lot of parts powder coated, and a good number of parts professionally painted too. Both places do nice work, though the PC is faster. What do you guys think of powder coating the steering linkage (pictured)? Vs paint, and your experience of?

PC may look better (matches chassis etc.), but with potential tolerances and that, seems more area can be finished if they're painted.

Potential education..........long story short, I jumped the gun having my A/C brackets powder coated. Then I read someplace 200 degrees or look for a finish besides PC. I was going to strip them, but after talking to a guy who knows builds real well, he thinks they'll be fine because the temp. they took in an oven. I'm going to use them as is, though I'll redo the A/C bracket which mounts to the exhaust manifold. Time will tell.

Other than that I goofed when I had my chassis and A/C brackets powder coated. Sort of forgot to account for grounds. I was forewarned, it was a senior moment. Strikes me no damage done with a tiny sanding disc, and/or a pinch of paint remover beforehand. I had to use some remover (very carefully) on the axle, because they PC'd where it wasn't supposed to be. The results were exactly what I was looking for.

[Smitty]

How about a quality frame black paint on the tie rod ends and other steering components. Seem to be very versatile and look good as well. Used Eastwood paste on the exhaust manifolds. Not the spray on which I was told does’t seem to last as long. Just a thought.

[Jason Banks]

I'm done with powder coating parts for my trucks. It builds up too much, chips too easily and I don't think it looks as good. The main thing that attracted me to it in the first place was, I could take parts that were not cleaned up that well and have someone else do all the work.

Now, I either take the parts to be blasted, or blast them myself, or in some cases, wire wheel and scotchbrite disc the parts. I then epoxy prime and urethane paint them...

I certainly wouldn't take those tie rods, pitman arm and idler arms to get powdercoated. Even if they are brand new they have grease in them that would be hard to get out beforehand...

[countr]

Any parts with grease, rubber or plastic should not be powder coated. Even the low cure powders are at 250 degrees. anything less is not a quality job. 350 degree powder is better. If paint is chipping it is not cured (powder is very durable) but it needs cured and the material you are painting needs to be able to take the heat. Thanks Russ

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Good stuff man, thank you. You guys talked me into paint for the steering.

You mentioned rubber countr, - I've considered PC for the pulleys. Word is the belt surface needs to be taped off, so maybe an option.... I can't say if you should tape the same for paint instead, but strikes me paint is a better option.

Subject of exhaust manifolds, I'm currently leaning at ceramic for those, the heat stove and pipe, and probably the RH exhaust shield (BBC) too. I may throw in the A/C bracket that "needs" redone anyway.

Forgot to mention in the OP, I see some people tape off the surface on the A-arms for coil springs when using powder coat. I asked the guy mentioned in the OP his opinion, he doesn't believe it's necessary. My lower A-arms pending, but the uppers were PC'd. Don't mind doing it again if it's right. Then again, if the surfaces shouldn't be PC'd, what the heck, tape off the PC and paint the surfaces?..........................That's rhetorical for those who would say paint the entire part instead. Heck, maybe I should throw them into the paint it pile anyway, referencing paint for grease parts...Too literal

[Red71gmc]

I agree with the above of sandblast or stripping, epoxy then urethane on those kind of parts. I have found that best for tractor frame, rear ends, and engines during restoration. It's holds up very well to fuels and greases and has a strong finish for regular type of application.

[mike16]

powder coating is over rated and chips easy. I suspect to high of a tempeture but it chips just the same ;Krylon. touches up easily

[Jason Banks]

I like the idea of ceramic coating for manifold. I have done that with good results. Your powdercoating or paint on that AC bracket will probably be fine, either way. For a long while at least...

I used the calyx manifold coating on my current truck. It has a couple ares that need touched up already, but it looks nice.

[Jason Banks]

Here are some big block manifolds I had jet hot coated. Almost everything else in that engine bay that is black was powdercoated. Inner fenders, core support, engine brackets, air cleaner, pulley's...etc...And the valve covers and intake were chevy orange powdercoat also...

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by Jason Banks

Here are some big block manifolds I had jet hot coated. Almost everything else in that engine bay that is black was powdercoated. Inner fenders, core support, engine brackets, air cleaner, pulley's...etc...And the valve covers and intake were chevy orange powdercoat also...

No expense spared.

Edit: Apparently there's a high heat PC. Word is it doesn't go on well, but then again they're probably doing it wrong. Anyway, you recall if your intake was high heat PC? If not, by the looks of that engine bay standard PC can take a lot of heat.

[Jason Banks]

The intake and valve covers were not high heat. Most powdercoat melts around 400° which is hotter than what your engine should ever see. Even where the AC brackets bolt to the manifold shouldn't be a problem. I had at least one SBC with the AC bracket powdercoated and never noticed a problem.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by Jason Banks

The intake and valve covers were not high heat. Most powdercoat melts around 400° which is hotter than what your engine should ever see. Even where the AC brackets bolt to the manifold shouldn't be a problem. I had at least one SBC with the AC bracket powdercoated and never noticed a problem.

Great info., thank you