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Old 05-25-2004, 09:27 AM   #1
Chevelle454
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350 to 383...

Does a 350 block need to be clearanced to make a 383? I have heard they need to be "notched". Others say you only need to get the 400 crank main journals down to 350 size? What is needed to make a 350 a 383?

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Old 05-25-2004, 10:02 AM   #2
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You need to clearance the pan rails to clear the rods..you may also need to clearance the rods for the cam. You will need a 3.75 stroke crank..either aftermarket or have a 400 crank cut from 2.65 to 2.45 main journal size. If you use the 400 rods you can use 350 pistons. If you use 5.7-6" rods you need special stroker pistons. If you go externally balanced you will need a 400 harmonic damper and flexplate/flywheel..Dont skimp on the machine work and use the best parts you can afford. Measure (or have measured)all bearing clearances. Before you start, have the block tanked and magnafluxed.
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Old 05-25-2004, 10:15 AM   #3
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Does anyone have a picture of what the block looks like clearanced? What's the cost to have a machine shop do the work, or could I do it myself. Where is a could place to get a stroker kit for the best price?

Thanks in advance...
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Old 05-25-2004, 11:02 AM   #4
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When I did my build, the crank only hit in the one location. Basically you just gind down until you have a thick paper clip clearance. Not hard to do, jsut mock it up and turn the crank checking for clearance issues on the pan perimeter and the lifter jounals.

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Old 05-25-2004, 12:03 PM   #5
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So the counterwieghts only hit in one area? Can an angle grinder be used?

Thanks
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Old 05-25-2004, 02:24 PM   #6
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Sorry, no pics at any rate, my 383 runs a scat crank, & factory 5.7 rods. there are notches below the bores(factory), & these were ground for clearance on the longer stroke/longer rod. the panrails didnt seem to be a problem, but just above the panrails.....the old 6 Q truck pan was also heated & clearanced in 3 places(below the pan rails) for the rods. The factory 350 rods were prepped & "cam clearanced" (top corner of all 8 rod bolts that swing past the cam). I have heard that a stock 400 crank, with the mains ground to fit the 350 block, & the stock 400 (shorter rods) will clear in most cases. The biggest trouble with the short rod setup ,is that it causes more side loading on the pistons(more friction & wear), as well as eating some power up! If i were to do another stroker, i think i would opt for the 6" long rods & go internal balance. Initial cost may be a little more on parts, but in the longrun I think it would be money well spent. Best of luck,crazyL
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Old 05-25-2004, 03:40 PM   #7
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All block casting at a little different. Mine only hit in that spot. I used a die grinder to take off the excess.

You can find decent budget kits at strokerkits.com and powerhouse(forget the url) .. make suure you get it balanced though.

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Originally Posted by Chevelle454
So the counterwieghts only hit in one area? Can an angle grinder be used?

Thanks
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