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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: St. James, MN
Posts: 163
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Roostre's 1967 C20
I've been lurking here for a while and decided to sign up. I am also starting this thread in hopes of keeping myself on track with my truck. This will also give me a record of the changes to the truck. I bought this 1967 C20 about 8 years ago. I found it on CL for $600. It had a flatbed, and quite a bit of rust that I managed to overlook. It spent a couple of years with me just driving around, fixing things as they came up. The first year I pulled the heads off of the 327 and had them freshened up.
Next, I found a bed from a later truck that someone had turned into a trailer. I thought it was pretty straight for the $400 the guy was asking for it, so I bought it and installed it on the truck. I will update other things I've done to it in future posts, but here's a picture of how it sits today. As soon as my yard firms up enough to get it into the shop, the cab will be coming off and getting a new floor, rockers, and cab corners so I can more safely drive the thing (seatbelts!) As a bonus, the body lines will line up when the rear cab brace is actually existent, rather than reduced to a little bit of rust. Last edited by Roostre; 04-02-2019 at 10:23 PM. |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: St. James, MN
Posts: 163
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
Here's a picture of the flatbed that was on the truck when I bought it. Not a bad flatbed, just not the look I like. Now I just need to find a different box to put on my trailer. It pulls really well, and I hate to lose it!
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Mena,Arkansas
Posts: 485
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
You got a bed and a spare rearend for $400.00. Not bad!
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68' with no bells or whistles unless I add'em. |
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: St. James, MN
Posts: 163
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
It's just the housing and axles, someone pulled the center section and put a plate over the hole, but yes, I thought it was a good deal. Thanks!
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: St. James, MN
Posts: 163
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
I picked up a fairly straight 67 grill and a pickle fork from our local grab and go today for $37.95. It's a little bent, but definitely fixable and much better than my current one (the red one in the picture).
Not a bad day for an afternoon of screwing around. |
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#6 | |
The Older Generation
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Location: Montezuma, Iowa
Posts: 25,481
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
Quote:
Another good find. Keep it up and you will end up with a nice, reasonably priced truck.... ![]() LockDoc
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Leon Locksmith, Specializing In Antique Trucks, Automobiles, & Motorcycles (My Dually Pickup Project Thread) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=829820 - |
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: St. James, MN
Posts: 163
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
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#8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: St. James, MN
Posts: 163
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
It has been a while since I've posted any progress on the truck. Life got busy, and I haven't gotten nearly as far as I would hope. I have been plugging away though. First up, the right front fender cup that seems to rust on most of these trucks around here.
Before: And after: Up next is to put a patch panel on the back side of the fender. Apparently a previous owner was a sculptor. They "fixed" a spot where the body line was pressed in by carving a new body line out of bondo. Last edited by Roostre; 06-26-2020 at 10:04 PM. |
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#9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: St. James, MN
Posts: 163
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
Pictures didn't work. Guess I'll have to try again.
Attached photos for those like me that enjoy them! ![]() Last edited by Roostre; 06-26-2020 at 10:05 PM. |
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#10 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: St. James, MN
Posts: 163
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
Now onto the grill. I decided that the green one was too dented to mess with, so I cut the part that I needed off of it for my original. Certainly not a perfect job, but once there's a little bondo to smooth out the weld, it should be fine for my driver. It's better than the pierced, bent original.
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#11 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: St. James, MN
Posts: 163
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
Finally, onto the drip rail. The sealer was cracked out of my drip rail and there was rust starting there. As I cleaned the old sealer out, I ran across more bondo from the sculptor. It looks like the dent is about half way across the cab and 8 to 10 inches up onto the roof. I managed to get a replacement skin for a great deal as it has a few small dings in it from shipping. I think I can make it good enough with some hammer and dolly work. Or I can cut out a patch for the section of roof that I need.
Now I have a question for those that have done it: How do you weld the rear of the roof skin to the rear of the cab? It looks to be spot welded internally. I can take it apart, but how does one re-attach the skin? Any tips would be greatly appreciated! |
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#12 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 11,099
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
Keep trying on the photos. We do like pictures around here.
![]() If you do a search there are some very good instructions on posting that got this old guy able to post like a semi-pro. Okay looks like you have conquered the photo posting problem. Excellent!
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Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. ![]() RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 |
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#13 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: St. James, MN
Posts: 163
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
Quote:
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#14 |
Six in a row makes it go...
![]() Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Vacationland: Maine
Posts: 1,346
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
Check out the link in my signature line to the 67 C20 build. There's some roof stuff in there that might help.
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67 C20 long step resto: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=342086 66 C10 long step build: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post3814790 CT to Alaska in a 67 C10: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=399224 “The height of sophistication is simplicity." - Clare Boothe Luce |
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#15 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: St. James, MN
Posts: 163
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
Thanks! You're is one I glanced through, I'll take a closer look at it. I see you used adhesive, what did you use? I've been thinking about adhesive for the rear pinch weld, but I would have to find something that I don't have to clamp as I'm still not sure how to get to the seam.
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#16 |
Six in a row makes it go...
![]() Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Vacationland: Maine
Posts: 1,346
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
The guy who did the work used (I believe) a 3M two-part adhesive designed for bodywork. Appears to be some tough stuff.
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67 C20 long step resto: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=342086 66 C10 long step build: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post3814790 CT to Alaska in a 67 C10: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=399224 “The height of sophistication is simplicity." - Clare Boothe Luce |
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#17 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: St. James, MN
Posts: 163
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
I've used a 3m two part structural adhesive before to glue Freightliner hoods back together. That was fiberglass, but I seem to remember it saying it was good for metal too. I'll have to look into it more. I think I could press the back seam in place and clamp the rest good enough for that to bond. The 3m stuff is amazing, we would glue a fender on a hood then test it by lifting on the fender. If it lifted the rest of the hood and the fixture, it was set. We only ever had one that failed, turned out the adhesive was past it's shelf life.
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#18 | |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: 2nd left past the stump on a dirt road.
Posts: 2,629
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
Quote:
Your into it now, why not go all the way. |
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#19 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: St. James, MN
Posts: 163
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
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#20 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 11,099
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
__________________
Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. ![]() RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 |
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#21 | |
Cluster King
![]() Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Junction City, OR
Posts: 5,263
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
Quote:
__________________
Contact me on all of your gauge cluster needs. I specialize in restoration, repair and parts sales for 67-72 Chevy and GMC trucks. email me at tbonegarris@yahoo.com I am also a dealer for Counterpart for gauge cluster parts only. Also see my facebook page, CG&C |
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#22 | |
Cluster King
![]() Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Junction City, OR
Posts: 5,263
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
Quote:
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__________________
Contact me on all of your gauge cluster needs. I specialize in restoration, repair and parts sales for 67-72 Chevy and GMC trucks. email me at tbonegarris@yahoo.com I am also a dealer for Counterpart for gauge cluster parts only. Also see my facebook page, CG&C |
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#23 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Ark City, Kansas
Posts: 3,332
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
THe glue that Freightliner uses to glue side panels of their buses (Thomas Buses) is call Plexis.
I was parts manager for a Thomas dealer, years ago...There were times when we didn't use that stuff, and it DID go bad on the shelf, of course we always found it to be bad when that repair was going to be made THAT day. Care to guess who's fault it is if your Plexis goes bad on the shelf??? Don't miss that job... |
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#24 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: St. James, MN
Posts: 163
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
I've got the outer skin already, just trying to decide how to install it. Thanks though. If the adhesive works on rockers, should be good enough for outer roof skin!
Yeah, we found out the hard way to check the expiration date on the tubes before we started using it that day! |
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#25 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: St. James, MN
Posts: 163
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
I spent about a half hour tonight with the hammer and dolly working out the shipping dents on my new roof outer skin. It's not perfect, but once it is installed and painted, it will be really tough to tell there was anything wrong with it. It will be perfect for my old driver!
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