Ptjsk '72 Jimmy Build

[Ptjsk]

Going to try to give it a shot to keep up on the build of my '72 Jimmy.

Here's the pictures of first bringing it home.

Pat

[Ptjsk]

A bit of work I've completed so far!

Pat

[Ptjsk]

A few more pics.

That number 505 shows up on many things. The AC compressor and the backside of the power brake booster too.

Pat

[Ptjsk]

Have the front Dana 44 complete and installed.

I have replaced every u-joint, seal, bearing etc.

Also, I put in a new 410 ring and pinion along with a Tru-Trac positration unit.

All new brakes as well as having the rotors turned.

Transmission is already completed, just waiting for my motor to be assembled.

I did purchase paint to spray the firewall. Still undecided if I want to paint fenders and hood while they're off.

I really would like to keep the original paint, but as all my project go...they tend to grow!

Pat

[Ptjsk]

Took my original power brake booster in for rebuild today.

Also took the master cylinder in.

Having brake lines built that are 3" longer than stock. I really couldn't find them, so I'm having them manufactured.

I wasn't sure I really needed to extend them, as I'm only going with about a 2.5" lift, but I thought it would be much easier to do them now than have a problem later.

I scraped, cleaned and painted the underside of my hood, as well as the inside of the fenders with satin black chassis paint.

Gonna have to decide on repaint soon!

Does anybody know if there's a way to check the AC units out? I want to keep it original in looks, so that's why I'm not going with an updated compressor.

Pat

[Ptjsk]

Waiting for motor to be completed.

I went with an Eagle 383 rotating assembly. Edelbrock RPM heads, Howard roller cam (mild RV grind), and an aluminum intake manifold. The aluminum parts will be painted orange to give it a first impression of it remaining stock.

Keeping the stock valve covers, air cleaner etc. Also going with the cast iron 2.5" center dump exhaust manifolds.

Of course, if someone were to look closely, they will be able to detect a few things.

Trying like heck to get this on the road soon!

Pat

[raggedjim]

Is it the original color? 505 may be a paint code for dark green.

Nice jimmy, Rg

[Ptjsk]

Originally Posted by raggedjim

Is it the original color? 505 may be a paint code for dark green.

Nice jimmy, Rg

Yea, the original color is white, as per the SPID sheet, as well as evidence throughout the entire truck.

Although, I do wish it was dark green! But I'll just have to live with it white.

Pat

[Ptjsk]

Originally Posted by raggedjim

Is it the original color? 505 may be a paint code for dark green.

Nice jimmy, Rg

Look what I found on the firewall to day Roger. Was sanding it to prepare for paint.

Pat

[Ptjsk]

More progress today!

Firewall was extremely clean to begin with, but I couldn't put it back together unless I painted it first.

Pat

[raggedjim]

That's a great find! Are you going to re-mark everything after paint?

[Ptjsk]

Another pic of the Cowl after I got it up on the lift.

Also, found these numbers on both sides of the frame.

Anybody know what purpose they are on there for?

Thanks, Pat

[DeadheadNM]

Following build. Those are a part number.

[Ptjsk]

Originally Posted by raggedjim

That's a great find! Are you going to re-mark everything after paint?

Hey Roger,

Yes, I'm going to try to replicate the markings that I have noted.

Originally, I just wanted to freshen things up a bit, but of course, project creep sets in.....

Removing the rear end this weekend and rebuilding the 12 bolt with 410 gears and a posi-traction unit.

Finding the original owner undercoated everything. And what was missed with undercoating is covered with so much sludge it just wasn't possible for rust to set in.

Pat

[Ptjsk]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

Following build. Those are a part number.

Thanks Bud,

I figured they must have been some sort of part number. One for the right side of the frame, and one for the left side.

Good thing is that the frame, as well as most of the Jimmy is extremely clean. That is except for the undercoating and sludge!

Pat

[SeventyOne]

Nice build! keep it up!

[7D2N]

The firewall looks great, what type of paint did you go with?

[Ptjsk]

Originally Posted by 7D2N

The firewall looks great, what type of paint did you go with?

Thanks for the positive comment!

I went with PPG OMNI two stage paint.

Pat

[Ptjsk]

Removed the rear end today.

Truly can't believe how much sludge was on it. Had to be at least a good 1/4" around the entire axle housing.

I scraped and scrubbed, plus utilized a high pressure washer for well over 2 hours.

Fortunately, I made good progress.

Now I'll remove the leaf springs and begin the scraping and cleaning process under the rig.

Pat

[DeadheadNM]

Pat thanks for posting pics. Note the springs affixing the ebrake cables to the frame. Very hard to find OEM pieces for which there is a current thread: http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=793031

[Ptjsk]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

Pat thanks for posting pics. Note the springs affixing the ebrake cables to the frame. Very hard to find OEM pieces for which there is a current thread: http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=793031

No problem, thanks for the information.

I did give it some thought as to why the springs were securing the brake-lines. I thought it seemed pretty "light duty" holding the lines in place, but then again, they have lasted 47 years!

I'm going to go with 2.5" lifting blocks in the rear. Do you think my brake cables will still work, or will I have to acquire extended ones?

Thanks, Pat

[Ptjsk]

Was dead set on going with a set of rally wheels that I purchased.

But....I have to say, after viewing several others on here, the white steel wheels look fantastic!

Do you guy's have a suggestion for the size and backspace?

I'm planning to go with 33" x 12" x 15" tires.

Thanks

Pat

[DeadheadNM]

I believe the cables have enough available slack. Eyeball the front rubber hoses to see if there is enough perceived slack though.

Just to be the devil’s advocate, why add lift? Fresh springs and 33” tires give a nice stance but keep it easy to get in and out. Even so, I added auxiliary steps so my wife would tear off the GB door scrambling inside.

Look for wheels with a 4” back space as that allows room to clear the front brake calipers. With 12” width tires you’ll probably have to go with at least 8” wheel width. Some guys have mounted 33 x 10.5 tires on 6” steel wheels.

[CJM72]

Originally Posted by Ptjsk

Removed the rear end today.

Truly can't believe how much sludge was on it. Had to be at least a good 1/4" around the entire axle housing.

I scraped and scrubbed, plus utilized a high pressure washer for well over 2 hours.

Fortunately, I made good progress.

Now I'll remove the leaf springs and begin the scraping and cleaning process under the rig.

Pat

Any chance you'll be doing a detailed post of the 12 bolt rebuild? Hoping to do the same thing in the future!

[Ptjsk]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

I believe the cables have enough available slack. Eyeball the front rubber hoses to see if there is enough perceived slack though.

Just to be the devil’s advocate, why add lift? Fresh springs and 33” tires give a nice stance but keep it easy to get in and out. Even so, I added auxiliary steps so my wife would tear off the GB door scrambling inside.

Look for wheels with a 4” back space as that allows room to clear the front brake calipers. With 12” width tires you’ll probably have to go with at least 8” wheel width. Some guys have mounted 33 x 10.5 tires on 6” steel wheels.

Thanks for the information.

It looks like there's enough for the what minimal lift I'm going with.

I just wanted a bit higher lift than stock, but didn't wish to go 4", or 6".

I may start with the 8" Rally Wheels I already have, but those steelies….

Thanks again, Pat