New Engine Sitting

[bubbasimms]

I have rebuilt the 250 six for my truck project. Its never been started. It has already been sitting for almost a year and will probably be sitting for a few more as I finish the truck. It is basically a long block with the tins in place. I am slowly working on intake, exhaust, accessories and of course the rest of the truck. I keep it covered and I have oiled the inside well with assembly lube and engine oil. I wd40'd the bare parts of inside to prevent rust. It does have the clutch and trans attached to it.

Should I occasionally turn the motor over? Should I fill it with oil and prime the oil system occasionally? Should I install the starter and use the starter to turn it over while i spin the oil pump? Whats the best thing to do here?

[Ironangel]

I just installed a 350 that had been on the stand and in a plastic bag for more than five years, no problems. Pull the plugs and fog each cylinder and reinstall the plugs. If the motor is kept inside a garage just plug all the openings, exhaust, intake, valve cover, water ports, etc. and then bag the motor in plastic. The better you seal it the less chance for moisture, mice, bugs and dust to find their way inside the motor...

[Overdriven]

I wouldn’t do anything more than pull the plugs and fog the cylinders. Assembly lube is stickier than oil and more likely to stay in place while the engine sits protecting it better. Priming the oil system will displace the assembly lube with oil and turning the engine over won’t really help anything either.

[Corts60]

I like to roll stored engines over by hand, maybe once every 6 months. No need to run oil pump. The assembly lube will stay in place with just rolling by hand. I roll it over one or two revolutions, just so the piston rings don't sit in the same place in case any moisture does get in there. Then I fog cylinders and wait another 6 months. Whatever you're doing, I'm sure the engine will be fine.

Just tape off all entry points: intake ports, exhaust ports, etc. I like to use shrink-wrap tape as it is designed to not leave a residue even after long periods of time.

[HO455]

Basic WD40 won't prevent against rust for more than 3 to 4 months at best. Depending on temperature and humidity. Use a more specific rust/corrosion prevention product for long term prevention. My favorite is Fluid Film for non electrical items.
Nice looking manifolds. They remind me of the ones on a Pontiac Sprint OHC6.

[54blackhornet]

Congratulations on keeping that little 250. One of the finest GM engine designs. The small block gets all the glory but a well built 250 is a wonderful alternative. I recently went to a show and saw a Camero with numerous folks looking under the hood, yep 250 six. Some commented “Never Seen One “.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by bubbasimms

I have rebuilt the 250 six for my truck project. Its never been started. It has already been sitting for almost a year and will probably be sitting for a few more as I finish the truck. It is basically a long block with the tins in place. I am slowly working on intake, exhaust, accessories and of course the rest of the truck. I keep it covered and I have oiled the inside well with assembly lube and engine oil. I wd40'd the bare parts of inside to prevent rust. It does have the clutch and trans attached to it.

Should I occasionally turn the motor over? Should I fill it with oil and prime the oil system occasionally? Should I install the starter and use the starter to turn it over while i spin the oil pump? Whats the best thing to do here?

Nice set up. I had the 4 Bbl Holley 8007, 390 CFM, on my 292 L6. My carb was 90* offset so the primaries opened over the plenums for both 1-2-3 and 4-5-6.
With your 2 Bbl configuration, you may be favoring 4-5-6, when you open the throttle. I had to saw off the lower part of the Holley throttle lever -- it's a kickdown for a Ford automatic, anyway, and I have a Chevy w/ SM465 -- that clears the intake. I solved linkage issues by finally going to a cable throttle from the accelerator pedal [GM '72-type] to an aftermarket cable to the carb.
I got 25 years out of the Holley. Then, after a rebuild of a 292, the carb wouldn't settle down. I replaced it with a 500 CFM Edelbrock 1404. Runs great now.
Some good advice about leaving the black moly assembly lube in place. I would put old spark plugs in the holes to keep them closed off and maybe blue 3M masking tape on the valve cover holes to keep dust and critters out. A ~1'' cork stopper would seal up the distributor hole.
Good luck on your build.

[bubbasimms]

Lots of good advice, thanks everyone.

[bubbasimms]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

Nice set up. I had the 4 Bbl Holley 8007, 390 CFM, on my 292 L6. My carb was 90* offset so the primaries opened over the plenums for both 1-2-3 and 4-5-6.
With your 2 Bbl configuration, you may be favoring 4-5-6, when you open the throttle. I had to saw off the lower part of the Holley throttle lever -- it's a kickdown for a Ford automatic, anyway, and I have a Chevy w/ SM465 -- that clears the intake. I solved linkage issues by finally going to a cable throttle from the accelerator pedal [GM '72-type] to an aftermarket cable to the carb.
I got 25 years out of the Holley. Then, after a rebuild of a 292, the carb wouldn't settle down. I replaced it with a 500 CFM Edelbrock 1404. Runs great now.
Some good advice about leaving the black moly assembly lube in place. I would put old spark plugs in the holes to keep them closed off and maybe blue 3M masking tape on the valve cover holes to keep dust and critters out. A ~1'' cork stopper would seal up the distributor hole.
Good luck on your build.

I have been concerned with the carb mounting. It does seem that the general consensus is to turn them sideways so the blades open inline with the engine. I will most likely do the same. Thanks for the tip

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by bubbasimms

I have been concerned with the carb mounting. It does seem that the general consensus is to turn them sideways so the blades open inline with the engine. I will most likely do the same. Thanks for the tip

No problem. A phenolic spacer can raise the base of the carb up 1/2'' or higher. Never tried it. Disadvantage will be the carb will not get warmed by the manifolds. Clifford Performance recommends additional carb heat plumbing under the intake to keep the temp even. The Clifford intake is self-plumbed. Circuited for coolant piping, that is. I live in a hot climate and never needed carb heat.
In fact on my V8 350 in my other truck I have a phenolic spacer to isolate the carb [600 CFM Carter AFB] from engine heat and prevent vapor lock. So go figure.