Costco Synthetic Oil

[lutronjim]

One mechanic said it 'It surpasses A P I specification & is Dexos approved which is usually found in more expensive brands.'

$27 for 2 5qt bottles.

[Mike C]

I'd run it. That's a smokin' deal.

[jocko]

I'd say try it (and then let us know how it works out )

JUST kidding - I would, however, suggest ignore what the mechanic said and check out what ratings are on the label for yourself - those should tell the real story, not likely they would be fake. If it has the ratings you need for your application, should be fine. I'm an oil snob personally (and a conventional oil one at that), but I'm getting mighty tired of my time and my materials costing more than my time and jiffy lube's materials... I never know whether to trust what they are putting in there, even though I ask (and pay extra) for something specific, so, I do it myself 99% of the time, and enjoy the satisfaction of knowing that bubba didn't use an impact wrench to put on the drain plug.

[burnin oil]

Somebody Is definatley getting rich since the bottom fell out of the oil business but lube products prices haven't changed.

[special-K]

I've never used an oil that didn't exceed API standards. They say Walmart's house brand is as good as any more expensive oil, too. If you are a Costco shopper, why not?

[saxart]

Originally Posted by jocko

I'm getting mighty tired of my time and my materials costing more than my time and jiffy lube's materials... I never know whether to trust what they are putting in there, even though I ask (and pay extra) for something specific, so, I do it myself 99% of the time, and enjoy the satisfaction of knowing that bubba didn't use an impact wrench to put on the drain plug.

About 5 years ago I had the opportunity to take a fleet vehicle to a local Jiffy Lube for regular oil changes for a few years. While I trust what they are putting in for oil, I wouldn't let one of those workers near one of my own vehicles after some of the stuff I saw happen there!

[hooverfish]

I got my last colonoscopy at Jiffy Lube. Top notch !

Seriously, great looking deal on the Costco oil.

[old51sedan]

I have a Costco membership, but haven't been there since last fall. I didn't know they had oil. I know that Walmart has their own oil, but have never seen a report on it. I did buy some Mobil 1 last week and see now that a few oil manufactures are now selling 6qt. oil containers made out of cardboard. I believe at that price I would be interested, but would like to see a report on it.

[67C10Step]

Originally Posted by old51sedan

I have a Costco membership, but haven't been there since last fall. I didn't know they had oil. I know that Walmart has their own oil, but have never seen a report on it. I did buy some Mobil 1 last week and see now that a few oil manufactures are now selling 6qt. oil containers made out of cardboard. I believe at that price I would be interested, but would like to see a report on it.

Three of my five vehicles call for 0W-20 and I exclusively use Mobile 1. I had been using the five quart containers and saw the six quart in a box so I grabbed one. Won't do it again. Pain in the butt to deal with. Picked up a pack of six, one quart bottles at Sam's Club for the most recent oil change.

Don't have a Costco near me or I'd definitely be looking at the label on that one.

[OregonNed]

Originally Posted by jocko

I'd say try it (and then let us know how it works out )

JUST kidding - I would, however, suggest ignore what the mechanic said and check out what ratings are on the label for yourself - those should tell the real story, not likely they would be fake. If it has the ratings you need for your application, should be fine. I'm an oil snob personally (and a conventional oil one at that), but I'm getting mighty tired of my time and my materials costing more than my time and jiffy lube's materials... I never know whether to trust what they are putting in there, even though I ask (and pay extra) for something specific, so, I do it myself 99% of the time, and enjoy the satisfaction of knowing that bubba didn't use an impact wrench to put on the drain plug.

Me too - I was going to have them replace the oil pan on my car after they tightened the plug so tight it darn near never came back out... had to jack it up and use a long ratchet with a cheater bar to get it off. I enjoy changing oil in all of my vehicles anyway

[tdangle]

I wonder who they are sourcing from? You know they are just rebranding the oil.

[burnin oil]

Whoever is cheapest when the contract is up.

There has been some interesting discussions on bobstheoilguy.com over the years but it can get pretty scientific, atleast for me. I have one motor that gets delvac religiously, a couple that get name brand whatever, and a few more that get the 5 gallon pail from the farm supply store.

[LS short box]

Just FYI. Many of the big oil bottlers fill and label private brand oil. I've been to many oil plants over the years for work. Some of the oil is exactly the same, they just change the bottle color and labels. Some oil bottles for end users like Wal Mart or Costco may ask the oil bottlers to change the blend. If you are supplying Costco it would be a huge contract to land. All the oil in the parts stores branded with their name is filled by what is called "co-packers". They don't have their own brand just fill for other end users.

[Sheepdip]

I'm not interested in a cheap price when it comes to oil for my vehicles although the Costco Brand is probably a very good oil.
I have been using Schaeffer Synthetics for years with never an issue, I also use Lucas Synthetics in my gear boxes.

I only change oil in my 40 Ford, Jeep and 02 Corvette once a year as they are not driven many miles, my 70 GMC gets oil and lube every 3000 mi. Old school thinking but I'm pretty religious about it.

https://www.schaefferoil.com/7000-race-oil.html

[tdangle]

Originally Posted by Sheepdip

I'm not interested in a cheap price when it comes to oil for my vehicles although the Costco Brand is probably a very good oil.
I have been using Schaeffer Synthetics for years with never an issue, I also use Lucas Synthetics in my gear boxes.

I only change oil in my 40 Ford, Jeep and 02 Corvette once a year as they are not driven many miles, my 70 GMC gets oil and lube every 3000 mi. Old school thinking but I'm pretty religious about it.

https://www.schaefferoil.com/7000-race-oil.html

That is what I was thing also. I just spent 5K + to put a new engine in my truck, I don't think I'll worry about saving $15 a year on oil.

[Warrens69GMC]

Originally Posted by tdangle

I wonder who they are sourcing from? You know they are just rebranding the oil.

Warren Distributing

[rsavage]

Not just a bad idea to use such places as the lube shops, dealers also have some real winners. Some years ago, I bought a 2 year old Ram 2500 cummings. They changed the oil (12 quarts) before I picked it up. I always change my own oil in everything I own every 3000-4000 miles. First oil change, I could not get the 1 quart filter off. I tried a variety of filter wrenches. Wouldn't budge and I was distorting the filter. I had to put 11 quarts of new oil in it as I had already drained it and run it down to the dealer with the old filter. The tech got it off. I asked him if he had changed it and he said yes. I asked him what he used when he put it on, and he shows me his 2', 1/2" drive breaker bar. I said why the hell would you used something like that? He said he was told, when trained, to make sure that the filter was tight because it was by the turbo. And that is why I try to avoid, as much as I can, having anyone work on my stuff.

[WorkinLonghorn]

There is a comparison test on YouTube, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l9il_piyuT8.

Personally I will use it or any other name brand, synthetic or conventional. Price is the main factor for me.

Buddy of mine just gave away his Tundra with 300,000 miles on it (never an engine problem) and he just used whatever the quick-change places put in. He was very regular on oil change intervals and never missed one. That is the key,not the brand or type IMO. -BA

[burnin oil]

I agree that any oil will work on 99% of vehicles out there. You have to start weighing options for the engine and environment. Extreame heat or cold weather, flat tappet cams, or motors that operate at max power for extended time such as tow rigs might do well to look at oils with better additive packages. These motors would do well to have a better shear rate and or higher concentration of heavy metals to protect internal surfaces.

[truckster]

Originally Posted by WorkinLonghorn

Buddy of mine just gave away his Tundra with 300,000 miles on it (never an engine problem) and he just used whatever the quick-change places put in. He was very regular on oil change intervals and never missed one. That is the key,not the brand or type IMO. -BA

The key is if they remember to put oil in the engine before you drive away. I've bought 3 cars over the years that owners drove away from oil-change places only to have their engines seize within a few miles. One of those was a mega-dealership place.

[WorkinLonghorn]

Originally Posted by truckster

The key is if they remember to put oil in the engine before you drive away. I've bought 3 cars over the years that owners drove away from oil-change places only to have their engines seize within a few miles. One of those was a mega-dealership place.

Yep, I've heard stories like yours however, I was having a good year and decided to take my '69 in and have the local quickie place do the job. When I got it home I checked the oil and it was at least one full quart too high. I took it back and the guy gave me some lame excuse and drained it to the proper level.
Once was enough for me,I'll be doing my own changes.

[WorkinLonghorn]

Originally Posted by burnin oil

I agree that any oil will work on 99% of vehicles out there. You have to start weighing options for the engine and environment. Extreame heat or cold weather, flat tappet cams, or motors that operate at max power for extended time such as tow rigs might do well to look at oils with better additive packages. These motors would do well to have a better shear rate and or higher concentration of heavy metals to protect internal surfaces.

Good points. I suppose if I was going to tow I'd be looking at a synthetic as well as a cooler.

[burnin oil]

I use Dino oil and change it out. My 5500s rear axle calls for 250k on Dino and 500k for synthetic. Neither would stay in there for half that time. The diesels get oil changes at every 5k miles and gassers at 3k since those are easy to watch on the odometer. The 72 with a built motor, I keep an eye on it and change when it seems like I get some gas in the oil. Small engines and tractors are every year since the hours are low.

[special-K]

I've been changing my own oil in everything I drive ever since I started driving. I change the oil religiously at 3,000 miles. No one told me how, why, or what. I just figured it out on my own. What I want to ask while the talk is on oil changes, oil quality, ect is, how does changing the oil help anything at all? I like the oil I use and have never changed brands. I just don't get the point of draining the oil just to pour it back in but I do it anyway

[burnin oil]

The main reason to change the oil is that the additive package breaks down over time. Another has to do with acidicy levels of the oil. Its actually a bad thing to change it to frequently unless you have contamination that needs removed from the crankcase.
Back in The day oil didn't hold up as well as it does today and I believe this is where the 3k oil change came from. Alot of it had to do with the high paraffin content of oil in the likes of quacker state and penzoil base stock. Now most synthetic oil in the US is actually dino oil. It is just highly refined from the better base stock crude. There is alot of interesting personal testing on extended drain intervals with only changing the filter and topping off the oil level. People using Oil analysis showed that 15-30k miles was possible before a total fluid swap was necessary. I find it easier just to change fluid than deal with a lab.