Connecting my Delco AM/FM to Amp

[ShortHaul]

Hey all. Im seeking some assistance in connecting my original Delco AM/FM radio in my 75 C20 to an Amp.

Specs are as follows

Vehicle: 1975 Chevrolet C20
Radio: Delco AM/FM
Amp: Infinity Kappa K4

The amp has has RCA Input ports, LF, RF, LR, RR. It comes with Speaker wire to RCA adapters for just this type of connection.

Amp
Kappa amp back by awesome_adawson, on Flickr

Connectors
amp connections by awesome_adawson, on Flickr

The AM/FM features the following speaker outputs.
Untitled by awesome_adawson, on Flickr

According to this diagram they should correspond with these.

RadioPlugsDiagram_3 by awesome_adawson, on Flickr


My truck only had the Single speaker in the dash, but the radio output has the provisions for the connections labeled H,J,K on the diagram, I just have to add wire.

When I bought it, the truck had two house type speakers (like you'd see on a cheap boombox) wired behind the seat to the connector shown above. (labeled ABCD)

The amp is powering 2 6x9's and 2 3.5"s now, and is bluetooth connected, but I still want to be able to use the stock radio.

My question is, quite simply, which wires to connect, in what order, to which input on the amp. Thank you!

[LH Lead-Foot]

Even though my 1967 C10 had no wire connector at all for the radio, you have more than I started with, but I used the OEM type radio anyway. Being retired has disadvantages.
A 1975 AM/FM radio should be push button station memory with chrome plated cast metal that maintains the OEM look and I like it. With all that being said and having more electronics experience than many, I am no expert by any means. I can't even find a place to purchase the OEM type connector for the radio and had no luck in the bone yards. The radio connector is cut off first and long gone. It's like, why is the carb linkage on a used lawnmower gone, bent or replaced with bicycle spokes?

Using your radio, to an amp, requires clean low power output, other wise you get a lot of distortion. Modern GM radios, communicate via class 2 serial data, so if a BOSE amp is installed, the radio automatically drops output for the correct signal to be controlled output from the amp. Matching speakers by resistance is important as well as you can't run 4 ohms rear speakers while have 8 ohm fronts and not expect the radio to fail and crappy sound.

One place to start, is a company I found, that does update the guts in 12 different options, to what you want, while keeping the radio clean original factory looking front. I am not familiar with the 75, but on the 1967 C10, there is only 7" behind the front of the dash. A 1984 Delco from my sons Monte Carlo is almost 8 inches deep.

(Side note; I worked on a 1938 Chrysler for a short time under the dash repairs, The radio was "Tube" operated and the size of a mailbox.)

Try going to and calling Gary Tayman (941) 371-8924 or www.garytayman.com for suggestions, schematics, connectors, upgrades and also most importantly, what you can expect using what you have now and want to do. Yes, there is money involved but advise & information is cheap. They have a lot of experience with all brands of vintage radios, keeping them looking period correct, but has state-of-the-art guts and add ons that my help you get some tunes. Don't forget your matched speaker upgrades as well... those house speakers take up room for the beer cooler behind the seats.
Best of luck.

[PAWS 72]

Bringing this up from the dead. If any one needs some radio work done call Rickwood Radio in Birmingham, Alabama. ive talked with them a few months ago and they are still a GM Certified Service Center. There is only 2 guys there now that knows these older radios. They seem reasonable on prices when I asked them about getting the radio in my truck working.I forget who I asked but he said that most of the time its usually about $90.00-$120.00. 205-942-5595

[LH Lead-Foot]

Thanks for updated info PAWS 72. Having a need or want to update or fix a radio in these classic vintage vehicles is priceless to some. The two techs you mentioned are disappearing or retiring, like a tech the owns a chrome tach dwell meter and knows how dual points actually work. Not everything has an “LS” engine in it, as my 69 year old buddy in Indianapolis who gets phone calls from carb work to point type distributors for a huge crowd that wants to keep it original, from stickers, batteries and even period correct tires.

Thanks again PAWS 72. That phone number is in my spiral note book.

[pitterpat]

Originally Posted by LH Lead-Foot

Thanks for updated info PAWS 72. Having a need or want to update or fix a radio in these classic vintage vehicles is priceless to some. The two techs you mentioned are disappearing or retiring, like a tech the owns a chrome tach dwell meter and knows how dual points actually work. Not everything has an “LS” engine in it, as my 69 year old buddy in Indianapolis who gets phone calls from carb work to point type distributors for a huge crowd that wants to keep it original, from stickers, batteries and even period correct tires.

Thanks again PAWS 72. That phone number is in my spiral note book.

Hey Paws,I live in Indy, could you give me the contact info for your Indy buddy who does points work? I have a 73 VW Beetle too and I need some work on my distributor for it. Thanks!

[LH Lead-Foot]

Originally Posted by pitterpat

Hey Paws,I live in Indy, could you give me the contact info for your Indy buddy who does points work? I have a 73 VW Beetle too and I need some work on my distributor for it. Thanks!

LH Lead-Foot
Hey “Paws”? His name isn’t Greg B? I known and worked with him since 2002! I am putting camshaft bearings in my LS for my 67 C10. I built the 4L60 last winter so I can get OD.
P.S. Put some 400 grit over a nail file, push/pull between points about 6 times. Clean with air and rag, grease the lobe and set gap. It will run then. They get damp with temp changes and loose continuity. No resistance, stronger coils primary, sparks when they open. Omaha
Posted via Mobile Device