10-15-2020, 05:05 PM | #1 |
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Brake Line Building
I'm going to try building my own brake lines. I'm looking for any advise.
What type of line, Nicopp, steel? What tools do I need? Is there a good kit to buy? Can rear and front lines be the same diameter? Fittings? Thanks in advance. |
10-15-2020, 08:33 PM | #2 |
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Re: Brake Line Building
When I build brake lines I buy the longest lengths (6') that oreillys has ..
It's just reg steel lines... I've only use nicop once...it bends very easy.. I prefer the steel myself... I have a rigid brand bender that I use for 90s, all other bends I just bend with my hands.. Eastwood has a nice handheld bender... You need a tool that will double flare I have the Eastwood flaring tool..well worth the money, but not cheap...I caught it on sale when I bought mine.. On the front mine is all 3/16"...the rear is 1/4" to the rubber line with the splitter T...then 3/16" to each rear wheel.. I just try to duplicate what the factory did for sizes and routing.. I buy bulk fitting couplings and Ts off ebay... be sure of your thread sizes as there are different threads for the same size tube...if you buy the premade tube like I use you'll get 2 fittings that can be reused.. I'd also recommend getting the gravel guard for the tubing... https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-4n...RoC7fgQAvD_BwE https://www.eastwood.com/professiona...ring-tool.html https://www.ebay.com/itm/Complete-3-...edirect=mobile
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10-16-2020, 08:07 PM | #3 |
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Re: Brake Line Building
Thanks Mongo, that's some good help.
I ordered some tubing and tools. It's gonna be another puzzle to put together, I like learning new things. I ordered Nicopp tube, enough that I can screw up some to start.I like the idea that it's easy to bend and make ends on. I figure easy is good for my first go around. |
10-16-2020, 08:12 PM | #4 |
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Re: Brake Line Building
Mongo,
Where do you suggest using the gravel guard? |
10-17-2020, 12:09 AM | #5 |
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Re: Brake Line Building
I used it on everything except what ran inside the frame rails..
All lines on the rear axle and all the front lines that were exposed are guarded You'll also want to get plenty of line clamps...I usually pull the factory ones and the self tapping bolts off old junk trucks and reuse them.. But theres also some nice aftermarket ones
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Mongo...aka Greg RIP Dad RIP Jesse 1981 C30 LQ9 NV4500..http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=753598 Mongos AD- LS3 TR6060...http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...34#post8522334 Columbus..the 1957 IH 4x4...http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...63#post8082563 2023 Chevy Z71..daily driver Last edited by mongocanfly; 10-17-2020 at 12:15 AM. |
10-17-2020, 09:23 AM | #6 |
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Re: Brake Line Building
I've noticed on show trucks that there is sometimes a curly cue in the line just before it hits the master cylinder. Is this functional or just decorative?
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10-17-2020, 11:40 AM | #7 |
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Re: Brake Line Building
The "moonshine still" as we like to call it, allows for flex and movement between the body and frame to keep from binding the lines..
I use -3 an lines on mine..I like the cleaner look and it takes up way less room.. I have tabs welded on the frame rail, and used bulkhead fittings to go from -an to inverted flare
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Mongo...aka Greg RIP Dad RIP Jesse 1981 C30 LQ9 NV4500..http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=753598 Mongos AD- LS3 TR6060...http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...34#post8522334 Columbus..the 1957 IH 4x4...http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...63#post8082563 2023 Chevy Z71..daily driver Last edited by mongocanfly; 10-17-2020 at 11:49 AM. |
10-20-2020, 05:15 PM | #8 |
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Re: Brake Line Building
I like the Nicopp line. It flares like butter. I do have the Eastwood flare tool and as said above it's not cheap but works very well.
I ran 3/16" both front and back. I like and use the rubber lined clamps down the frame rail. Not a fan of self tapping screws so I drill the frame rail for clearance holes 10-24 stainless bolts and ny-lock nuts. Not a great pic but it shows the master and the Nicopp lines. Don't know what your project direction is but if you are moving the gas tank to the back I paralleled the fuel lines to the brake lines from the tank to the firewall. |
10-20-2020, 05:27 PM | #9 |
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Re: Brake Line Building
I did get the NiCop lines. I got 3/16 and 1/4. Also got some gravel guard. I'm feeling good about getting it done, but I should have done it before dropping the motor in.
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11-01-2020, 07:55 PM | #10 |
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Re: Brake Line Building
I have a wilwood proportioning valve(260-11179). Front disc and rear drums. I think I need a ten pound residual pressure valve for the rear brake line, is that correct? Or can I skip the pressure valve. The master cylinder is on the firewall in the regular place.
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11-01-2020, 11:59 PM | #11 |
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Re: Brake Line Building
What master cylinder do you have?....is it disc/drum?...and is it factory?...most factory have it built in..
https://www.strangeengineering.net/u...ressure-valve/ https://help.summitracing.com/app/an...idual-valve%3F
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Mongo...aka Greg RIP Dad RIP Jesse 1981 C30 LQ9 NV4500..http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=753598 Mongos AD- LS3 TR6060...http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...34#post8522334 Columbus..the 1957 IH 4x4...http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...63#post8082563 2023 Chevy Z71..daily driver Last edited by mongocanfly; 11-02-2020 at 12:12 AM. |
11-02-2020, 01:27 AM | #12 | |
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Re: Brake Line Building
Quote:
In the instructions it says "All drum brake applications require an inline 10 pound residual pressure valve" So I guess thats my answer, I'm just asking if you guys have experiance with this? |
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11-02-2020, 01:28 AM | #13 | |
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Re: Brake Line Building
Quote:
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