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Old 07-13-2004, 12:38 AM   #1
dinnut
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this really bites...

so i start my truck up for the first time in a long time and i drive it down my driveway and turn it around in the street. i pull back in my drive way and feel some hard bumps or something i get otu and see this!!! the wheel is about to fall off.... only 1 lug is still on. one stud got sheared completely off and the rest jsut fell off...i dont know how this happened i know they were all tight when i put the wheel on last...im just glad i wasnt doing 30 or 40 miles an hour on the road!

so yeah i jacked it up and ptu on the spare bc these wheels are really difficult to get the lugs started on (and the mosquitos were really bad) and the tire was flat! so i had to put some air it in a grandma it back to the house
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Old 07-13-2004, 01:16 AM   #2
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HAHAHAHAHHAAHHAHAH, sorry man but that first pic is hilarious
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Old 07-13-2004, 01:23 AM   #3
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Looks like the studs are way too short.
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Old 07-13-2004, 01:25 AM   #4
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hahaha @ 67cst

You must of tighten the lugs too much. Reason why that have torque spec when mounting wheel. If you tighten them to much you don't leave room for the stress the wheel incounters on turns. Wheels do flex, not surprising alot of people don't know this simple fact.

Just so you know it happened to me already cause my jack-ass brother torqued the wheels at 100lbs. 75-80lbs is what the needed to be. it took less then an hour to get new studs, pound out the old ones and replace. Good luck.

Last edited by Alexis; 07-13-2004 at 01:29 AM.
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Old 07-13-2004, 07:45 AM   #5
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When ever I have Bought new wheels, They have Always told me to torque the wheels to 100lbs. Maybe someone was trying to steal em and had loosened the lug nuts and was coming back later to get them. Hope you checked all the other wheels to make sure they are tight!
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Old 07-13-2004, 08:41 AM   #6
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I work with tires day in and day out. 100 is what i have mine at and that is what The books reccomend. With alunimum i might go down to 80 or 90. but steel, 100 is good. Go to Harbor Freight or their web site and get a tork wrench (the kind that is adjustable and clicks) for about 20 bucks. same kind at the Zone is $75 - 120

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Old 07-13-2004, 09:59 AM   #7
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oversize rims cause lots of stress on wheel studs especially the fronts do yourself a favor and change all the studs.you might also think about getting narrower wheels with less offset so this doesn't keep happening
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Old 07-13-2004, 11:01 AM   #8
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I agree with cddowns. The offset is way too much. The load of the truck is acting like a lever and needs to be closer to the center of the hub. This will also start to destroy your axle bearings.
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Old 07-13-2004, 12:57 PM   #9
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the more i look at your pictures the more it looks like you don't have the proper type of lug nuts either , does the manufacturer reccomend the use of special lugnuts??
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Old 07-13-2004, 01:42 PM   #10
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yeah im going to go to all 1 type of lugnut but havent had the opportunity to buy them yet. previous owner installed the wheels and tires and the lugs were not matching so im gonna go buy 24 lugs that much
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Old 07-13-2004, 02:51 PM   #11
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It looks to me like the lugnuts are fine, they are conical seat. It just looks like that there's just not enough thread engagement. You might also want to check the holes in the rim and make sure that they are not damaged. If they were previously, that may be a part of why this happened. Or...this might happen again if they were damaged this time. If there is any damaged at all, I would not recommend running them again!!
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Old 07-13-2004, 02:53 PM   #12
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Oh, I forgot. Also, you might want to replace your wheel studs, the stress make have weakened them.
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1971 C10 LB Fleetside
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1974 C20 Cheyenne
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Old 07-13-2004, 03:00 PM   #13
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just buying lugnuts that match isn't going to help, i'm quite sure that you need special shouldered nuts check with the manufacturer !! and replacing studs and lugnuts isn't going to help with the improper sizing issues that you have with this set of wheels !! you can maybe prolong the failure of the wheel studs awhile but don't expect it to go away!!! loosing a wheel at speed has very bad results
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Old 07-13-2004, 03:01 PM   #14
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i need to replace the wheel studs on the right front and back now... the back is missing 1 stud and the front is missing 1 and the rest are messed up and/or slightly bent... so im going to completely replace the front and just replace the 1 on the rear...


btw hows that first post for negative camber
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Last edited by dinnut; 07-13-2004 at 03:03 PM.
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Old 07-13-2004, 07:57 PM   #15
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Maybe your wife is trying to collect on your insurance policy. Just kidding
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Old 07-13-2004, 08:51 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greasemonkey
Looks like the studs are way too short.
...
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Old 07-13-2004, 09:34 PM   #17
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Had this happen once years back when I let a friend/friends help out on a brake job.

Few hours, case a Bud, couple a more friends, lighter/wd-40 fights , few more beers a little Jack. Next morning the left front beat me down the overpass!

Never think its tight, any doubt at all, check it. Don't trust em less "YOU" check em.

I agree with cdowns, those look like they might take shouldered nuts. Are the hole much larger than the studs?
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Old 07-14-2004, 12:30 AM   #18
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IF THAT HAPPENED TO ME WITH ONE OF MY TRUCKS, I WOULD BE WAY TO EMBARRASSED TO TELL ANYONE, LET ALONE PUT PICTURES ON THE INTERNET. JOHN
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Old 07-14-2004, 10:23 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by junkyardjohn
IF THAT HAPPENED TO ME WITH ONE OF MY TRUCKS, I WOULD BE WAY TO EMBARRASSED TO TELL ANYONE, LET ALONE PUT PICTURES ON THE INTERNET. JOHN
well hopefully other people are looking at this post and can learn exactly what can happen with a poor choice of wheels and trying to install them with improper parts!!!
i nominate "DINNUT" as the posterboy for "WHEELS GONE BAD"
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Old 07-14-2004, 10:38 AM   #20
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Can't tell from the pics, but those wheels look like they are made for larger diameter studs. Your truck has 7/16 studs, wheels are probably made for 1/2 or 9/16. I would replace the studs with 1/2" and get the proper lug nuts. Those little acorns aren't made for the aluminum rims.
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Old 07-14-2004, 01:59 PM   #21
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The wheel studs cannot not be easily replaced with a different size. A person would have to drill out the drums/hubs and put in wheel studs that these vehicles did not come with. As far as the lug nut holes in the wheels...wheels only come in one size. Rather, they don't make wheels specific for 7/16 studs or 1/2 studs, etc. There are three different types of lug nut/wheel seat combos....conical seat (\__/), ball seat, (which has rounded edges- Honda, VW and BMW mainly use these) and mag style (aka; shank style). The lug nut in the picture is a conical seat lug nut. If the two mating surfaces (between the lug nut in the picture and the wheel) match, that style of lug nut will work fine. The picture of the wheel is not good enough to be able to tell what lug nut you need for sure but I would say that it looks like it uses mag style. If the holes on the wheel for the wheel studs are bigger than the studs (by quite a bit) AND the mating surface for the lug nut is flat, it probably needs the mag style. As far as the offset for the wheels, yes they are a bit too positive but not to the point where I wouldn't recommend running them. I think the problem here is one of three things; 1)the wheel studs are not long enough and the lug nuts are not getting proper thread engagement, 2)the lug nuts are not correct for the application, 3) the lug nuts were not tight to begin with or the mating surface for the wheel was damaged. I recommend replacing the wheel studs for the right front because of stress and any others on the truck that are missing or replace all of them if they are the same length as these were IF thread engagement is your problem (the wheel studs should at least be flush with the top of the lug nut). Not enough thread engagment would make perfect sense if you currently have mag style wheels and are using conical seat lug nuts, because the mag style wheels are a little bit fatter in that area.
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My Chevy trucks, past and present:


1962 C10 SB Fleetside
1964 C10 LB Fleetside BBW
1966 C10 SB Fleetside
1966 C10 SB Fleetside BBW
1968 C10 SB Fleetside
1971 C10 LB Fleetside
1971 C10 SB Fleetside
1972 C10 SB Fleetside Cheyenne
1972 C10 SB Fleetside Cheyenne Super
1972 C10 LB Fleetside Cheyenne Super
1974 C20 Cheyenne
1979 K5 Blazer Cheyenne
1982 K10 SB Fleetside Custom Deluxe
1982 K10 SB Fleetside Scottsdale
1986 C10 SB Fleetside Silverado
2008 Silverado 1500 4x4

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Old 07-14-2004, 02:34 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 67cst
HAHAHAHAHHAAHHAHAH, sorry man but that first pic is hilarious
SORRY... BUT I'M WITH DERECK ON THIS ONE. JOHN
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Old 07-14-2004, 02:51 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silvertonguedevil
The wheel studs cannot not be easily replaced with a different size. A person would have to drill out the drums/hubs and put in wheel studs that these vehicles did not come with. As far as the lug nut holes in the wheels...wheels only come in one size. Rather, they don't make wheels specific for 7/16 studs or 1/2 studs, etc. There are three different types of lug nut/wheel seat combos....conical seat (\__/), ball seat, (which has rounded edges- Honda, VW and BMW mainly use these) and mag style (aka; shank style). The lug nut in the picture is a conical seat lug nut. If the two mating surfaces (between the lug nut in the picture and the wheel) match, that style of lug nut will work fine. The picture of the wheel is not good enough to be able to tell what lug nut you need for sure but I would say that it looks like it uses mag style. If the holes on the wheel for the wheel studs are bigger than the studs (by quite a bit) AND the mating surface for the lug nut is flat, it probably needs the mag style. As far as the offset for the wheels, yes they are a bit too positive but not to the point where I wouldn't recommend running them. I think the problem here is one of three things; 1)the wheel studs are not long enough and the lug nuts are not getting proper thread engagement, 2)the lug nuts are not correct for the application, 3) the lug nuts were not tight to begin with or the mating surface for the wheel was damaged. I recommend replacing the wheel studs for the right front because of stress and any others on the truck that are missing or replace all of them if they are the same length as these were IF thread engagement is your problem (the wheel studs should at least be flush with the top of the lug nut). Not enough thread engagment would make perfect sense if you currently have mag style wheels and are using conical seat lug nuts, because the mag style wheels are a little bit fatter in that area.
I agree, you need shank style (mag style) lugnuts like these
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Old 07-14-2004, 03:15 PM   #24
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HEY that's a picture of the proper lugnuts!!!!
as far as the stud replacement the way i look at it if all 4wheels were on the truck improperly installed that means all 24studs were subjected to the same destructive stress levels and all 24 studs should be replaced ,or you can just replace a few now and wait to replace the others as the other wheels fall off
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Old 07-14-2004, 03:27 PM   #25
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Here ya go, avatar sized.
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