Power brakes with manual transmission

[trucktony]

I found a nice photo of the carbon filter on the web.

[yossarian19]

I went to a firewall mounted booster. I haven't even plumbed brakes yet and I am *so* glad I did. Access to brake components just sucks @ the frame rail and clutters it up.
I know firewall mounted brakes aren't as pretty but if you just need it to work and be simple, Ebay will sell you a firewall brake kit for under $150 shipped.

[Coupeguy2001]

I used a Hydroboost unit and master I got from a 96 Chevy dually.
First, I cut off the master cylinder bore on the cast iron original master cylinder and used it for the pedal support.
Then I went to a metal fabricator and bought a piece of steelone foot long, 5 inches wide, 1/4 inch thick, and a piece of one inch flat stock that was 3/16 thick and 14 inches long.
I had the metal fabricator guy bend the big piece in a 90 degree angle, and on one side, drilled 4 3/8 holes and mounted it to the inside frame rail. On the other side of the piece of metal, I used a hole saw, and made the large hole for the hydroboost to go through, and the little 3/8 holes to mount it. Next, I drilled a 3/8 hole in each end of the strap piece, and bent the strap at each end to go from the frame to the outermost corner of the 90 degree metal piece. Then I just bolted everything together, and went to Ace Hardware and bought the rod and threaded the ends to work with the brake clevis and the booster.
I had to make hydraulic lines that went inside the frame rail on the left side to get the power steering fluid to and from the hydroboost unit. I made my own brake lines and what I couldn't make, I bought at o Reilly's.
I added the ten pound check valve for the rear brakes, and aadjustable pressure reducer, and a 2 PSI check valve for the front brakes. Started it up and after purging the air bubbles, hasn't quit on me in 5 years.

[Dongray]

Originally Posted by chevyguyase

Here are some pictures of the booster linkage on my '54 3100 with a Borg Warner 5 speed. I don't know how close it is to your set up. Hope this helps.

Can you tell me what year bellhousing you are running? I am hooking up a 292 to a t5 in my 1950 and the bellhousing is from a late 50s truck. My clutch fork is straight so no clearance like yours. Thinking if I can find a different fork it might help.

Thanks!
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[mr48chev]

Chevyguyase showed the way to do it. Use the stock pedals, Build a bracket that moves the booster and mc back a bit for room and build an immensely strong but adjustable push rod.

The "only works with an automatic" is when you buy their bracket and pedal., They don't sell one with a clutch pedal.

If we ask nice he might show us some shots of the bracket he built and how he has the booster mounted.

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by Dongray

Can you tell me what year bellhousing you are running? I am hooking up a 292 to a t5 in my 1950 and the bellhousing is from a late 50s truck. My clutch fork is straight so no clearance like yours. Thinking if I can find a different fork it might help.

Thanks!
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I lightened up his photo a bit so you can see it easer. It's the same exact setup that I have in my 48 that sits on a 54 frame.

The rod that goes forward from the clutch pedal has an eye on the other end that goes around the leg of the L shaped piece that also is the clutch adjustment that fastens to the fork. Save the photo to you computer and expand it and study it a bit.

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by Dongray

Can you tell me what year bellhousing you are running? I am hooking up a 292 to a t5 in my 1950 and the bellhousing is from a late 50s truck. My clutch fork is straight so no clearance like yours. Thinking if I can find a different fork it might help.

Thanks!
Posted via Mobile Device

I lightened up his photo a bit so you can see it easer. It's the same exact setup that I have in my 48 that sits on a 54 frame.

The rod that goes forward from the clutch pedal has an eye on the other end that goes around the leg of the L shaped piece that also is the clutch adjustment that fastens to the fork. Save the photo to you computer and expand it and study it a bit.

[Dongray]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

I lightened up his photo a bit so you can see it easer. It's the same exact setup that I have in my 48 that sits on a 54 frame.

The rod that goes forward from the clutch pedal has an eye on the other end that goes around the leg of the L shaped piece that also is the clutch adjustment that fastens to the fork. Save the photo to you computer and expand it and study it a bit.

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[chevyguyase]

Hi, the great Mr48Chev mentioned me, I have a 1954 3100 with a t5 with a 250 6 cyl. a/c and power disc brakes. My power brake booster is under the truck mounted on the frame. The kit is from CPP. It was a complete kit, booster, brackets, master cyl, combination valve. Be careful , the proportioning part of this valve must be for a car, because if you drive it in the rain it will go down the road sideways. guess how I know. So add an adjustable proportioning valve on the line to the rear brakes. I used a Wilwood. If I had to do it over again I would mount it on the firewall. I would also get rid of the original emergency brake system that I fought hard to keep. My bell housing has the engine mounts attached to it and had a 4 speed granny trans attached, I don't know what it is out of. My new project is I'm putting in an electric power steering unit (EPAS) from a 2005 Prius. Wish me luck.

[Dongray]

Originally Posted by chevyguyase

Hi, the great Mr48Chev mentioned me, I have a 1954 3100 with a t5 with a 250 6 cyl. a/c and power disc brakes. My power brake booster is under the truck mounted on the frame. The kit is from CPP. It was a complete kit, booster, brackets, master cyl, combination valve. Be careful , the proportioning part of this valve must be for a car, because if you drive it in the rain it will go down the road sideways. guess how I know. So add an adjustable proportioning valve on the line to the rear brakes. I used a Wilwood. If I had to do it over again I would mount it on the firewall. I would also get rid of the original emergency brake system that I fought hard to keep. My bell housing has the engine mounts attached to it and had a 4 speed granny trans attached, I don't know what it is out of. My new project is I'm putting in an electric power steering unit (EPAS) from a 2005 Prius. Wish me luck.

So I assume you would go to the firewall due to ease of access? Or are there other reasons? I like the clean firewall which is the only reason I’m trying to keep it underneath but I can see how it can be a pia!
Now why would you drop the original ebrake? I would have thought it might be one of the more straight forward items to work with.

I have to admit if there were some cool pedal s that didn’t stick out like a sore thumb on the firewall or toe board I would really consider dropping the originals.
You will have to let me know how the epas works out . I like the concept of the mod and you don’t need to hassle with the hydraulic aspects…..that being said I’m sure it will have its own but let me know.
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[mr48chev]

Two main reasons for not going on the firewall. First firewall mounted boosters and master cylinders are just flat ugly clutter in and engine compartment . I didn't spend 400 bucks on finned aluminum to have the view blocked by ugliness. That and with the intake and 4 barrel on my 292 I have a clearance issue.,

Second is just as you saw in the photos it is a lot easier to hook up clutch linkage with the original pedals.

[chevyguyase]

The E brake on the early trucks were built like an old iron bridge. the newer trucks are just cables and a ratcheting pedal. The original brake complicates the sheet metal work on the left front floor and the superstructure under the floors It uses rods and a huge heavy pipe (bell crank) that goes from frame rail to frame rail. When you hit any bumps that big heavy pipe rattles. The same with the Master cyl on the fire wall it is just seems to be a lot easier to put it on the firewall. It's done now and I don't have any complaints now that it is done. Also my thoughts on that filter on the power booster vacuum hose you guys are talking about. If You are running a carb. try to mount it higher than the carb like in one of the pictures above. especially if you're putting the booster under the truck like I have it. I don't think it's good idea to run a hose from your carb straight down to a booster under your truck with out first running it higher than the carb. and then down. enjoy your day.

[mick53]

Would the problem be solved with a hydraulic T/O bearing?

[nvrdone]

I guess im just old because I dont understand what all the problem is about power brakes with a manual trans. MY booster and m/c are mounted under the floor.
Ive got a 327 with M21 4 spd in my '49, with power brakes.
I got a kit from POL that works great. Its BB T4755. Corvette m/c with prop valves. I got this kit because with adding 10 # check valves in both front & rear lines. I can still use the drum brakes front & rear until I convert to discs. The mounting bracket bolts to the stock bracket on the frame. Im using the stock brake & clutch pedal. The clutch linkage is the stock rod going forward to a dog leg on the clutch release arm. none of this micky mouse hydraulic throw out bearing stuff. just pure mechanical linkage. As far as clearance, I think the M21 is smaller than a slush box.
Admitedly it wasnt a perfect bolt in. I had to modify the brake pedal to get better pedal pressure. But it was worth the work. Also, POL was great to deal with

[mick53]

Originally Posted by nvrdone

I guess im just old because I dont understand what all the problem is about power brakes with a manual trans. MY booster and m/c are mounted under the floor.
Ive got a 327 with M21 4 spd in my '49, with power brakes.
I got a kit from POL that works great. Its BB T4755. Corvette m/c with prop valves. I got this kit because with adding 10 # check valves in both front & rear lines. I can still use the drum brakes front & rear until I convert to discs. The mounting bracket bolts to the stock bracket on the frame. Im using the stock brake & clutch pedal. The clutch linkage is the stock rod going forward to a dog leg on the clutch release arm. none of this micky mouse hydraulic throw out bearing stuff. just pure mechanical linkage. As far as clearance, I think the M21 is smaller than a slush box.
Admitedly it wasnt a perfect bolt in. I had to modify the brake pedal to get better pedal pressure. But it was worth the work. Also, POL was great to deal with

I don't know about Micky mouse but certainly simple.

[nvrdone]

sorry, i'm just a fan of mechanical clutch linkages

[mick53]

IMHO if it works out I think mechanical is best. My problem is an 8" booster and 2 3" exhaust.