1964 C10 fleet side swb

[Paul Y]

Originally Posted by Justin71105

Seller said around 150k miles which I was expecting to be incorrect, and it was vin came back with aution on Tahoe and it had 344k miles. But it was running and listed in copart aution as "Engine Atart Program"

Just found and read your thread - nice work, and a good tip on the Accord Coupe weather strips. Knew about the Civic one but, like you avoided them due to the colour. Just need to find a set and get them shipped over.

344K Miles? Sounds as if the ring gaps will be perfect for a Turbo then....

Best stick a 4l80e in it now and make use of the Pozi!

One small observation re your proportioning valve. I was taught that they should be mounted fore and aft rather than side to side. Now that could be an old wives tale but might want to bear it in mind if you have an issue with your brakes once out on the road with either the rears locking up or not working well.

How far away are you from the maiden voyage?

P.

[Justin71105]

Originally Posted by Paul Y

Just found and read your thread - nice work, and a good tip on the Accord Coupe weather strips. Knew about the Civic one but, like you avoided them due to the colour. Just need to find a set and get them shipped over.

344K Miles? Sounds as if the ring gaps will be perfect for a Turbo then....

Best stick a 4l80e in it now and make use of the Pozi!

One small observation re your proportioning valve. I was taught that they should be mounted fore and aft rather than side to side. Now that could be an old wives tale but might want to bear it in mind if you have an issue with your brakes once out on the road with either the rears locking up or not working well.

How far away are you from the maiden voyage?

P.

If prop valve is an issue will move it up onto master cylinder like alot of tese trucks are done. Just have to run new brake lines in that case, can make them look better if I do that.

The 73 I pulled it off of had it mounted in this same location and position, thats why I chose it.

4L80 was much to expensive to think about, a core is around 1k here, for the price of corr/rebuild I could buy a gearstar trans.

The 4L60 will be built enough to handle any extra power I out on it which I dont plan to do for a long time. Never had an issue out of a 4L60e in any truck Ive owned even with upwards of 300k miles, only time I seen someone have an issue was when putting more power on them or rrally dogging their trucks.

Will have trans built for more than stock hp/tq just to be safe. I am mostly wanting reliable driveability in an old truck, so stock power in this light of a truck will likely be plenty for me.



Hopefully by the end of the year I will be driving it, going to need glass before transmission I think, dont want a cab full of water while sitting at transmission shop. As soon as a transmission is put in I can move it around the yard though.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Paul Y

....One small observation re your proportioning valve. I was taught that they should be mounted fore and aft rather than side to side. Now that could be an old wives tale but might want to bear it in mind if you have an issue with your brakes once out on the road with either the rears locking up or not working well.....

P.

Originally Posted by Justin71105

If prop valve is an issue will move it up onto master cylinder like alot of tese trucks are done. Just have to run new brake lines in that case, can make them look better if I do that.

The 73 I pulled it off of had it mounted in this same location and position, thats why I chose it.

4L80 was much to expensive to think about, a core is around 1k here, for the price of corr/rebuild I could buy a gearstar trans.

The 4L60 will be built enough to handle any extra power I out on it which I dont plan to do for a long time. Never had an issue out of a 4L60e in any truck Ive owned even with upwards of 300k miles, only time I seen someone have an issue was when putting more power on them or rrally dogging their trucks.

Will have trans built for more than stock hp/tq just to be safe. I am mostly wanting reliable driveability in an old truck, so stock power in this light of a truck will likely be plenty for me.



Hopefully by the end of the year I will be driving it, going to need glass before transmission I think, dont want a cab full of water while sitting at transmission shop. As soon as a transmission is put in I can move it around the yard though.

The prop valve doesn't know what position it's in & works either way.
On some vehicles they're mounted fore/aft; others might have them left to right. They're mounted based on the packaging of the various components & placed where they'll fit.