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#1 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Turlock, CA
Posts: 8,534
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Re: Best compound for original paint?
Good thread. I’ve always just used 0000 steel wool and CLR mix on original paint, carefully by hand, but the truck I have now in storage waiting til I have time needs the paint refreshed correctly.
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I live in California, but identify as a Texan ![]() "If a job's worth doing, it's worth doing well" Survivor "Lil’ Mint" (67 c10 40k mile light green original paint) Project "C10 Fever" (68 factory black 396 swb) Project "Little Sister" (70 c10 blue original paint refresh) Project "Blue Bomb" (70 c30 blue original paint refresh) SOLD Project "Vitamin C" (71 c10 orange original paint refresh) SOLD |
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#2 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: North Texas
Posts: 3,462
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Re: Best compound for original paint?
I take back what I said above about sanding with 2000 grit as a last resort.
Even 3000 is meant to remove orange peel on multiple coats of NEW paint. Stick with polishes to renew original paint!
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Mike 1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 35 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes. 1982 C10 SWB -- sold 1981 C10 Silverado LWB -- sold, but wish I still had it! 1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming. Retired as a factory automation products salesman. Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop. Member here for 24 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then! |
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#3 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Burbank CA
Posts: 3,055
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Re: Best compound for original paint?
Another fan of 0000 steel wool here on the initial cleanup. Not so much a fan of CLR though. Not that CLR does not work, it's just weak. I personally use Metal Prep phosphoric acid solution by Blue Lightning and it goes to town on the surface rust without thinning out what's left of the original paint film. Polishing later with 3M products. I find that virtually any polish/compound found on the shelf at your local chain stores isn't nearly as effective as what is available to the professional through paint suppliers, or online.
IMPORTANT: The aforementioned Metal Prep is aggressive and needs to be tested first in an area not seen. NOT RECOMMENDED for metallic finishes! It kinda bites into those metallics and can streak permanently. Don't ask how I know. Doh! I'll include pics showing a comparison between CLR and Metal Prep on UNTOUCHED original (non-metallic) paint. That is, nothing done but spray it on and wait. No rubbing except with a soft sponge to wet it out evenly. The acid works especially well to bring back the brightness of white areas that have turned lightly orange with surface rust. The pic of the front panel in the bed with the two bottles shows what each product does to the oxidation after about 1/2 hour of just sitting while kept wet with a sponge. Obviously, the CLR does not do much. Last edited by oem4me; 04-16-2022 at 01:43 PM. |
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#4 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Burbank CA
Posts: 3,055
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Re: Best compound for original paint?
More pics.
Last edited by oem4me; 04-16-2022 at 01:48 PM. |
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